Can you tell when the battery in your mech is low?

[John_]

One of the fears I've noticed people have of using mechs is draining their battery to low since there is no circuitry to cut you off when the battery has had it. When I first started using mechs/rbas I didn't really notice any difference throughout the charge of the battery but as I used them, changed mechs, and changed RBAs I started to notice when the vape changed. I know that colder hit with less vapor the battery is around 3.7 volts. This gets thrown off when chain-vaping or when it's hot outside, but generally it's night and day when the battery is too low. I know 3.7 volts is still fine usually but that's around where the vape starts to deteriorate for me. Around the time I started noticing this I also started to be able to tell when my wicks were starting to dry out. Is this just an experience thing? I'm guessing most people can tell when their wicks are drying especially with cotton otherwise I think there would be a lot more threads about drying wicks. I haven't seen any about batteries getting low in mechs so I'm assuming the majority of mech users know when to switch. Just some thought, had to kill a few minutes while I was waiting for something at work.

 

[wonner]

As I understand it, one of the advantages of using a Kick, at least the Kick 2, is that it will pulse power to warn you when the battery gets low.

Then again, is a mech with a Kick still a mech?

 

[Thrasher]

it's an experience thing, in the end the average battery can go to 2.5-2.7v before damage. and it is very hard to actually keep vaping until they are that low.

for me i get to right about 3.5 - 3.55v and it just gets super weak all of a sudden. when i first started with mechs i was all OCD and would keep checking the battery like every 20 minutes, until i finally noticed it feels dead long before it really was.

 

[John_]

As I understand it, one of the advantages of using a Kick, at least the Kick 2, is that it will pulse power to warn you when the battery gets low.

Then again, is a mech with a Kick still a mech?

No. I would use a kick or similar device if it could push out 50+ Watts just for the consistent vape, until that happens it's pure mechs for me.

it's an experience thing, in the end the average battery can go to 2.5-2.7v before damage. and it is very hard to actually keep vaping until they are that low.

for me i get to right about 3.5 - 3.55v and it just gets super weak all of a sudden. when i first started with mechs i was all OCD and would keep checking the battery like every 20 minutes, until i finally noticed it feels dead long before it really was.

I was the same way, I'd vape for a bit and then check the battery voltage, again and again. I noticed the same thing, when I feel a battery is dead it's still well above the minimum voltage. I experience this too "it just gets super weak all of a sudden" that's when I swap batteries and every time I've done this the battery has been between 3.5-3.8 Volts.

 

[Myrany]

In my REO with RM2 it is obvious. With my Sentinel V3 clone + IGO-L I have to keep checking the battery because by the time I notice it the battery is down around 2.5 volts.....ooooooops.

 

[John_]

In my REO with RM2 it is obvious. With my Sentinel V3 clone + IGO-L I have to keep checking the battery because by the time I notice it the battery is down around 2.5 volts.....ooooooops.

What's the coil setup in each?

 

[Jonathan Tittle]

After the battery hits 3.7 for me, it's time to swap. I can feel and taste the difference whether I'm dripping, using my Kayfun 3.1, my RSST or any other tank system. Battery type doesn't seem to matter, 3.7v is just my cut-off. Normally vapor isn't the issue for me since most of my builds are micro coils (they're just more consistent for me), but taste just seems to fade.

 

[Myrany]

What's the coil setup in each?

Both are 30 gauge kanthal microcoil at around 1.7 ohms and rolled cotton wick.

 

[John_]

After the battery hits 3.7 for me, it's time to swap. I can feel and taste the difference whether I'm dripping, using my Kayfun 3.1, my RSST or any other tank system. Battery type doesn't seem to matter, 3.7v is just my cut-off. Normally vapor isn't the issue for me since most of my builds are micro coils (they're just more consistent for me), but taste just seems to fade.

Yeah the vape just "fades" around 3.7

Both are 30 gauge kanthal microcoil at around 1.7 ohms and rolled cotton wick.

Interesting that you can tell with one and not the other if they're the same. Perhaps it's because of the size of the chamber of the RBA? The RM2 is pretty tiny.

 

[Myrany]

Interesting that you can tell with one and not the other if they're the same. Perhaps it's because of the size of the chamber of the RBA? The RM2 is pretty tiny.

That might well be it. I don't know I have just sort of learned to check every few hours with the Igo-L on the Sentinel clone. THe REO with RM2 works out pretty nicely to one internal bottle of juice = 1 battery with my setup.

 

[Visus]

In my REO with RM2 it is obvious. With my Sentinel V3 clone + IGO-L I have to keep checking the battery because by the time I notice it the battery is down around 2.5 volts.....ooooooops.

I have done extensive testing and with IMR batteries you have to get it down to one vape and know its ready for charging. The problem is the IMR battery is so strong it really doesn't say its drained until its really well beyond efficient and safe voltages.
If you vape one more, just one more vape, it drains some cells to 2.5v and then the battery becomes unstable.
Reading your battery discharge sheet will show specifically at your amperage vaping, it will show specifically how the battery will react. Push the gas pedal and the battery has shown characteristics as such. I have freak batteries, great batch, they show better numbers that I already assessed pre-buy as good... If your batteries are not close to the sheets then maybe you have rebadged batteries as well..
Battery test-review 18650 comparator

 

[John_]

I have done extensive testing and with IMR batteries you have to get it down to one vape and know its ready for charging. The problem is the IMR battery is so strong it really doesn't say its drained until its really well beyond efficient and safe voltages.
If you vape one more, just one more vape, it drains some cells to 2.5v and then the battery becomes unstable.
Reading your battery discharge sheet will show specifically at your amperage vaping, it will show specifically how the battery will react. Push the gas pedal and the battery has shown characteristics as such. I have freak batteries, great batch, they show better numbers that I already assessed pre-buy as good... If your batteries are not close to the sheets then maybe you have rebadged batteries as well..
Battery test-review 18650 comparator

While I'm not disagreeing the AW IMRs are a high quality battery. X Voltage is X Voltage, the only thing that would change would be the capacity of the battery allowing you to output a voltage above say 3.7 V for a longer period. A battery with a lower resistance will also provide you with a higher voltage as it's maximum voltage output is higher, we notice this with the difference between the AW IMR 18650's (the 2000mah and the 1600mah versions), the 1600mah version has a lower internal resistance which allows it to give us more power. While quality of the battery may contribute to it's true capacity (most batteries listed as X mah do not have that actual capacity), voltage is voltage it doesn't matter where it's coming from.

 

[Visus]

While I'm not disagreeing the AW IMRs are a high quality battery. X Voltage is X Voltage, the only thing that would change would be the capacity of the battery allowing you to output a voltage above say 3.7 V for a longer period. A battery with a lower resistance will also provide you with a higher voltage as it's maximum voltage output is higher, we notice this with the difference between the AW IMR 18650's (the 2000mah and the 1600mah versions), the 1600mah version has a lower internal resistance which allows it to give us more power. While quality of the battery may contribute to it's true capacity (most batteries listed as X mah do not have that actual capacity), voltage is voltage it doesn't matter where it's coming from.

A lot of mech vaping gets really good at 3.5v and you do not realize its not 3.7v @8amps its now 3.5v@8amps and if you vape once more it drops into the dungeon at 2.8-5v and falling.
Some batteries do not do this quick discharge and are not safer chemistry IMR cells. They make it very difficult to know when to put on the charger.

You take a vape it hits light you think ok its the battery but what the hell and drop another etc.. and it vapes great again. You know its battery charging time but its vaping so well and then dramatic music plays as your battery is now drained to 2.3v and you have heard thats bad. lol..
It very difficult to tell many times lol..

 

[emus]

I've been using mechanical and one wire fused unregulated mods for a few years and have yet to drain a batt below critical voltage. When voltage gets south of 3.6 the vapor production and throat hit is near nothing. Hard to imagine how one wouldn't notice terrible vapor production just north of critical voltage.

 

[John_]

A lot of mech vaping gets really good at 3.5v and you do not realize its not 3.7v @8amps its now 3.5v@8amps and if you vape once more it drops into the dungeon at 2.8-5v and falling.
Some batteries do not do this quick discharge and are not safer chemistry IMR cells. They make it very difficult to know when to put on the charger.

You take a vape it hits light you think ok its the battery but what the hell and drop another etc.. and it vapes great again. You know its battery charging time but its vaping so well and then dramatic music plays as your battery is now drained to 2.3v and you have heard thats bad. lol..
It very difficult to tell many times lol..

Two different voltages will lead to a difference in wattage which is what we care about most when we're vaping. Wattage is the power that's generating the heat. The current will remain constant (as it should) throughout the charge of the battery. Mech vaping gets good at 3.5V? not when the battery is that low! Maybe if your mod has the normal 0.3 voltage drop so on a full charge you're getting 3.7-3.8 at first. If you have a mech that has a 0.03 voltage drop or lower, you start around 4.1-4.2 volts. Might just be me but 3.7 volts from the battery is too low.
I'm not trying to say you're wrong. Everybody likes what they like, 3.5-3.7 volts is just too low for me.

 

[emus]

I like coils that produce solid vapor quality at 3.7v.
They are a little hot at 4.2v; not a problem just do quicker draws till batt drains a little.
At 3.6v the performance is lame.
When I pull batts they normally read between 3.6 and 3.7.

 

[John_]

I like coils that produce solid vapor quality at 3.7v.
They are a little hot at 4.2v; not a problem just do quicker draws till batt drains a little.
At 3.6v the performance is lame.
When I pull batts they normally read between 3.6 and 3.7.

I like warm vapor, when it's cold it's not as satisfying for me. To each their own I suppose.

 

[emus]

I like warm vapor, when it's cold it's not as satisfying for me. To each their own I suppose.

I like warm and cool vapor depending on mood.
Fun to tune vapor personality by experimenting w/ coils, wicks, air holes, chamber volume, drip tip length, diameter, etc.

By hot I meant build will produce a load of high quality vapor with a one second button push.
kinda like hot as a pistol expression.
My hot (high performance) RDA produces cool (low temperature) cumulus clouds in a big way.

 

[John_]

I like warm and cool vapor depending on mood.
Fun to tune vapor personality by experimenting w/ coils, wicks, air holes, chamber volume, drip tip length, diameter, etc.

By hot I meant build will produce a load of high quality vapor with a one second button push.
kinda like hot as a pistol expression.
My hot (high performance) RDA produces cool (low temperature) cumulus clouds in a big way.

Understandable. Some flavors I have to vape on higher resistance coils so they won't tear my throat up. But usually, a nice fruity vape like Honey Pearry on a 0.35-0.45 Ohm dual coil, I'm in vaping heaven.

 

[Myrany]

I've been using mechanical and one wire fused unregulated mods for a few years and have yet to drain a batt below critical voltage. When voltage gets south of 3.6 the vapor production and throat hit is near nothing. Hard to imagine how one wouldn't notice terrible vapor production just north of critical voltage.

Except that I don't like TH and design my DIY juice and coils to give as little as possible so I do not have that clue. It is vapor productin alone I have to go on.