Can you use the insulators from the hcigar kayfun 3.1 to replace those in the regular (ie non 91%) Russian RBA?

[sahsah]

I sat on my mod for a minute or two until I realized and to my utter horror and dismay had inadvertently melted the delrin insulators under the build deck and I believe the o ring (or maybe it's an insulator too I'm not sure) in or surrounding the air flow hole that comes out to the build deck. Anyways, I've got the hcigar 3.1 clone, which I really hate (if your curious as to why I'll elaborate, but I don't need to bore everyone with those details) so if I can use the parts I need out of that it would be very convenient. Also, if you can use those can anyone walk me through the steps to replacing said damaged parts? Thank you very much in advance to anyone that can shine some light on this for me, I sincerely appreciate you offering your time, knowledge, and assistance. Keep on vaping everybody, it's going to bring about world peace, I've got a feeling this is the answer to mankind's prayers lol =]

 

[State O' Flux]

if you can use those can anyone walk me through the steps to replacing said damaged parts?

I suspect you are not mechanically inclined, so I will provide step by step instructions, and in some cases will "state the obvious"... because I have to assume you may need the obvious stated. ;-)

The Russian is just like a Kayfun 3.1... which the Hcigar is a clone of. The SvoeMesto PDF owners manual applies to one and all.

First - note the depth of the 510 contact pin ("center pin screw" 1a) relative to the threaded portion of the 510 connector. Measure it if you have the tool, or even photograph it... for future reassembly reference.

Ref. page 3: (using a screwdriver that fits the slot well), remove "center pin screw" (1a) and "insulator" (1b) from "body of collector tank" (1c).

Ref. page 4: you then unscrew the "collector tank" (1c) or end cap from the base (2a). You may need rubber "jar grippers" to obtain an adequate grip. Although I have not, some have found it necessary to apply heat or cold... and some have resorted to using pliers.

Ref. page 4: (using a screwdriver that fits the slot well), unscrew the "air duct" screw (2h) from the "positive pole" (2f)... or what is more commonly referred to as the positive block. This will free the "positive pole insulator" (2k) for replacement.

At this time, inspect and test fit all parts that are relevant to the replacement of the "positive pole insulator" (2k). If all parts fit correctly, proceed.

Reassembly - read and understand all instructions before beginning:

Upon reassembly, make sure the positive block is aligned square and not touching, what is commonly referred to as the negative block, or the atomizer will be shorted to ground. Reinstall and tighten the air duct screw (2h) firmly, but do not crush the positive pole insulator.

Lightly lubricate both 1a and 1b with Vaseline, e-juice or food safe silicone grease. Insulator (1b) must be pre-installed fully into body of collector tank (1c) prior to installing center pin screw (1a). Slide 1a into the 1b/1c to create the "1a/b/c pre-assembly".

Reinstall the "1a/b/c pre-assembly" to the base (2a), screwing it on sufficient to compress the o-ring seal. This only needs to be tight enough to seal the o-ring. Over-tightening will make future disassembly and maintenance difficult.

Notes: The center pin screw (1a) should never be tighter than (or even as tight) as the air duct screw (2h).
Repeated removing and installing the atomizer on a battery can cause 1a to turn 2h, resulting in the positive block (2f) loosening and making contact with the negative block.

Referring to your first instruction above for screw final position - screw 1a into 2h. Carefully continue to tighten screw, bearing in mind - it must be tight enough for electrical continuity and to seal the collector tank. It does not have to be "tight". Due to variations on this aspect of the design, it may bottom out or it may not.

That's it.

 

[sahsah]

I suspect you are not mechanically inclined, so I will provide step by step instructions, and in some cases will "state the obvious"... because I have to assume you may need the obvious stated. ;-)

The Russian is just like a Kayfun 3.1... which the Hcigar is a clone of. The SvoeMesto PDF owners manual applies to one and all.

First - note the depth of the 510 contact pin ("center pin screw" 1a) relative to the threaded portion of the 510 connector. Measure it if you have the tool, or even photograph it... for future reassembly reference.

Ref. page 3: (using a screwdriver that fits the slot well), remove "center pin screw" (1a) and "insulator" (1b) from "body of collector tank" (1c).

Ref. page 4: you then unscrew the "collector tank" (1c) or end cap from the base (2a). You may need rubber "jar grippers" to obtain an adequate grip. Although I have not, some have found it necessary to apply heat or cold... and some have resorted to using pliers.

Ref. page 4: (using a screwdriver that fits the slot well), unscrew the "air duct" screw (2h) from the "positive pole" (2f)... or what is more commonly referred to as the positive block. This will free the "positive pole insulator" (2k) for replacement.

At this time, inspect and test fit all parts that are relevant to the replacement of the "positive pole insulator" (2k). If all parts fit correctly, proceed.

Reassembly - read and understand all instructions before beginning:

Upon reassembly, make sure the positive block is aligned square and not touching, what is commonly referred to as the negative block, or the atomizer will be shorted to ground. Reinstall and tighten the air duct screw (2h) firmly, but do not crush the positive pole insulator.

Lightly lubricate both 1a and 1b with Vaseline, e-juice or food safe silicone grease. Insulator (1b) must be pre-installed fully into body of collector tank (1c) prior to installing center pin screw (1a). Slide 1a into the 1b/1c to create the "1a/b/c pre-assembly".

Reinstall the "1a/b/c pre-assembly" to the base (2a), screwing it on sufficient to compress the o-ring seal. This only needs to be tight enough to seal the o-ring. Over-tightening will make future disassembly and maintenance difficult.

Notes: The center pin screw (1a) should never be tighter than (or even as tight) as the air duct screw (2h).
Repeated removing and installing the atomizer on a battery can cause 1a to turn 2h, resulting in the positive block (2f) loosening and making contact with the negative block.

Referring to your first instruction above for screw final position - screw 1a into 2h. Carefully continue to tighten screw, bearing in mind - it must be tight enough for electrical continuity and to seal the collector tank. It does not have to be "tight". Due to variations on this aspect of the design, it may bottom out or it may not.

That's it.

That's a pretty rude and condescending way to begin answering a question...what are you basing that snap-judgement assessment on, might I ask? I'm only curious, because as far as I know, we've never met and you know absolutely nothing about me....so do you make a habit of negatively judging others for no apparent reason and speaking down to everyone or were you just trying it out for a spin and I had the oh-so-fortunate privilege of being your first recipient of condescension and unsolicited appraisal?

 

[horton]

sahsah..... I believe State O' Flux was being a little "tongue in cheek" when he prefaced his comments to you. Don't think anything said was meant to cause you umbrage.....

 

[JulesXsmokr]

 

[State O' Flux]

I'll begin by thanking Mr. Horton for his consideration in coming to my defense. It was thoughtful of you to demonstrate that an individual's perception of events or comments can, apparently, vary greatly, depending on the individual... and as we all too well know, perception is reality.

Now, on to Mr. (or Ms.) sahsah. I see no point in trying to respond to each individual element of your second post... as I neither take offense, nor do I feel a need to defend myself. You have misperceived my intent - and after a 16 day waiting period, finally felt the need to say something.

I can only assume that you take offense to my statement: "I suspect you are not mechanically inclined, so I will provide step by step instructions, and in some cases will "state the obvious"... because I have to assume you may need the obvious stated." I can see no other comments that would add fuel to the fire of your second post.

After reading your OP a few times, I determined that you had no mechanical aptitude... or you would not have requested "anyone walk me through the steps to replacing said damaged parts". This I did, with a good amount of effort, research to insure clarity... and in as much painfully excruciating detail as I could muster. As a semi-retired technical instructor and technical writer, I can muster a decent amount of detail when called upon. ;-)

The preface statement was, if you had more technical aptitude than I initially gave you credit for, an offer of explanation why I felt the need to go into such detail that, although useful to some one with no skills, would have been annoying to someone with skills.
In other words, I was apologizing in advance... if my perception of you was incorrect, and the steps of disassembly and re-assembly were excessive and uncalled for.

I understand how a misconception can create a level of anger and hostility. I've had anger management issues most of my life, and only in greater age have I learned to step back and try to look at things from alternate angles.
As you're perceptions were genuinely felt... you may wish to look at this event as an education in how a few words, misinterpreted, can lead to unwarranted actions.

So... that's about it. Take it as you wish, do with it what you will.
Cheers.

To be honest Jules, I was initially confused as well... until I realized that I had somehow, genuinely injured Mr. sahsah feelings. I had to read everything several times to determine this and to try and understand how this could have occurred.
Only until after Mr. Horton posted his impression of my being "tongue in cheek", did it occur to me that there could be several ways to interpret my comments.

 

[sahsah]

I'll begin by thanking Mr. Horton for his consideration in coming to my defense. It was thoughtful of you to demonstrate that an individual's perception of events or comments can, apparently, vary greatly, depending on the individual... and as we all too well know, perception is reality.

Now, on to Mr. (or Ms.) sahsah. I see no point in trying to respond to each individual element of your second post... as I neither take offense, nor do I feel a need to defend myself. You have misperceived my intent - and after a 16 day waiting period, finally felt the need to say something.

I can only assume that you take offense to my statement: "I suspect you are not mechanically inclined, so I will provide step by step instructions, and in some cases will "state the obvious"... because I have to assume you may need the obvious stated." I can see no other comments that would add fuel to the fire of your second post.

After reading your OP a few times, I determined that you had no mechanical aptitude... or you would not have requested "anyone walk me through the steps to replacing said damaged parts". This I did, with a good amount of effort, research to insure clarity... and in as much painfully excruciating detail as I could muster. As a semi-retired technical instructor and technical writer, I can muster a decent amount of detail when called upon. ;-)

The preface statement was, if you had more technical aptitude than I initially gave you credit for, an offer of explanation why I felt the need to go into such detail that, although useful to some one with no skills, would have been annoying to someone with skills.
In other words, I was apologizing in advance... if my perception of you was incorrect, and the steps of disassembly and re-assembly were excessive and uncalled for.

I understand how a misconception can create a level of anger and hostility. I've had anger management issues most of my life, and only in greater age have I learned to step back and try to look at things from alternate angles.
As you're perceptions were genuinely felt... you may wish to look at this event as an education in how a few words, misinterpreted, can lead to unwarranted actions.

So... that's about it. Take it as you wish, do with it what you will.
Cheers.


To be honest Jules, I was initially confused as well... until I realized that I had somehow, genuinely injured Mr. sahsah feelings. I had to read everything several times to determine this and to try and understand how this could have occurred.
Only until after Mr. Horton posted his impression of my being "tongue in cheek", did it occur to me that there could be several ways to interpret my comments.

all I really wanted to know was if the insulators were compatible and if there was anything in particular I should be aware of that would be important to either do or not do(ie something which could damage my mod upon reassembly and use, like by causing a hard short). Anyways, I already took the insulators and found out for myself that they indeed do not fit, but after some careful shaving they work just fine