Ceramic Atty Cups

[naviathan]

My design idea was to use a small ceramic dowel with the heater coil wrapped around it to maintain even heating. The porous ceramic would also help to absorb liquid near the coil. The aluminum mesh would be formed into a bridge then wrapped around the coil assembly. I was trying to come up with a decent non conductive spacer to set the mesh away from the coil just enough to prevent shorting but still allow the liquid to fill the gap.

My latest thoughts are a wick pad at the base with the coil wound around like a stove heating element inside and inner tube. The pad would extend under the inner tube to an outer hold where the liquid would be held. The pad would wick the liquid into the coil. Properly sealed similar to the E2 cartos that are the big discussion now they wouldn't need filler.

 

[hova]

im having a little trouble picturing that , how about a (ahem) picture?

-hov

 

[naviathan]

I would have to sit down and draw it out and I'm not real good at such things. I'll give it a shot tomorrow hopefully. If someone builds this atty and it works send me some freebees and I'm happy! LOL

 

[skeetr]

Interesting idea. You could wrap them together with heat resistant tape like this: DealExtreme: $2.88 High Temperature Tape (10mm / 300-C). Then wrap with nickel foam. I think this is the same tape that is sometimes used by the manufacturers in attys.

It would also make reinstalling a coil very simple instead of drilling and such. What would be great is to have premade coils welded to the top of an H shaped frame. Center strut non conductive of course. Something that would be stable enough for almost anyone to set into a cup half and reassemble. Perhaps even a modified atty base that you could just plug the frame into.

 

[hova]

i dont see why we dont use a usb type circuit board. all you need is two traces , just enough to hold the legs steady. i suppose if you were real creative , you could work out a way to cover the copper traces...thats my big problem , copper and brass used in smoking stuff is a bifg no no to me...


-hov

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok I took a different approach, rather than using a ceramic cup I encased the coil in ceramic and the wrapped it with the mesh. It takes 4 seconds at 4.5vdc to produce vapor. The mesh attached to the ceramic soaks up the juice very well. I will probably modify the mesh to prodrude from the side by 1/4" so it touches the cartomizer batting allowing wicking to the heater. Here are some pics. The last one is the heater after 5 minutes of run time, nice cherry coil showing through the ceramic

Oh and the specs are: 3.4ohms of 34ga nichome wire with enamel wire connectors.
Dan

 

[naviathan]

4 seconds is quite a long time. Where did you get the ceramic from?

 

[Scubabatdan]

4 seconds is quite a long time. Where did you get the ceramic from?

Well unfortunantly it has to heat the ceramic material up to vaping temps, I use Thermeez, it is a ceramic paste that takes 12 hours to fully cure at room temps. Once cured it is good to 3000 degrees. The heater was cool to the touch 10 seconds after power was cut. I like this stuff

11oz THERMEEZ CERAMIC PUTTY 3200*F - eBay (item 110127938526 end time Jul-29-10 10:40:22 PDT)

Dan

 

[naviathan]

Very nice, thanks Dan.

 

[hova]

nice indeed. if i had some of that , id roll a bit out flat , and stick a connector (ie: 901 ) onto it to cut yourself some gasket...


might have to put that stuff on the wishlist for my mod cigar..


-hov

 

[hova]

so i just got my machine pin IC sockets , and i think we are overlooking the obvious answer.. the legs of the ic's can be left in the black GRP holder they come in. it should surely withstand the heat and liq.

let me know what you's think ;D

=hov

 

[Vaporer]

I'd avoid using aluminum, brass & copper. Aluminum is associated with Alzheimer's. I don't know if eliquid is reactive to it, probably not, but without testing it SS can be found and is cheap and safe. It can be found in fine mesh grades and even the Volcano pads. You can even tighten the mesh openings with a needle if it was slow wicking.

hov, you're probably right on the IC frame. If the full pin is used for the plugin coil it will be abt 1/4" above the black socket material. If you remove 2 pins for the coil, leaving 1 pin on each end, that leaves just the right spacing for the coil. The 2 holes it leaves also work well as bottom air feeds.

My worth.

 

[hova]

on my 901's the ic legs are a no-go. way too long , and they also have a good bit of wide to them , they sort of tilt inward. i might be able to get 2 ohms on the ic legs without cutting them , but maybe fit a full size coil in there.

i think for my giant hands and crappy soldering iron , im going to have to find someone getting rid of the g120 stuff. from the looks of it , that cart was perfect.

im still looking for a pill fob that im comfortable with messing around with. harbor freight had the tiny ones , but i dont think i could do much with that , otherwise i would just rebuild my 901's.


also : the machine socket carrier material in my ic sockets , were simple plastic , not the glass reinforced polymer , or bakelite , like i remember them being. i barely had to pull on the pins sideways and they ripped right out.

my question is how are you cutting them without crimping the end?

im also in need of an answer of whether or not the discs under the ceramic cup are needed. not the mesh , but the plastic discs and what not. seems like they are just insulators , and i might prefer to leave that out.

i think im gonna put a drop of eliquid in my vaporgenie and see what happens ,then im gonna play with a soldering iron and some nichrome! yay!


-hov

(my wife just loves you guys by the way)

 

[hova]

i forgot aluminum off-gas can cause Alzheimer's...



___

 

[Vaporer]

I cut them with a dremel tool cutting wheel or you can hold them with small needle nose pliers and use a triangle jewelers file. Once you are 1/2 through they will snap easily at the cut and you can dress the end with a file. You can get a cheap set and they work well for the stuff we do on PV's. Smoe of the IC frames are better than others. Mostly pot luck when you buy. They will have the right pin count and style, but may not look like the picture. The older ones did have the PCB type frame. I'm sure they are still available somewhere.

Not many G120's show up but search the classifieds. I got mine on a sale from www.rrvaporz.com . I like it...big reservoir, I can use it all day and its easy to maintain.
Adding the DSE701 mouthpiece is nice too.

The discs are normally to keep liquid from getting past the mesh bottom and to the battery. The small hole on the middle is the air feed orifice. With nothing on the bottom the liquid can pool near the edge when on its side and then run down to the connector.

 

[misterD]

im still looking for a pill fob that im comfortable with messing around with. harbor freight had the tiny ones , but i dont think i could do much with that , otherwise i would just rebuild my 901's.

walmart has some decent size ones. by the pharmacy where they keep those pill containers with the week days written in

 

[HexKrak]

That thermeez looks awesome except if Aluminum is associated with brain dysfunction wouldn't alumina oxide (The primary ingredient) also be in the same boat?

 

[hova]

for the ic's i have that are relatively soft plastic , they dont seem like the old glass reinforced plastic frame that i remember...

i use craft pliers , they are like needle nose , but they are tapered the whole way to the point , then flat. they slip right in the end of ic pin socket , wiggle , and they pull right out...

or nail clippers work really good...



i thought about the walmart pill fobs , but i had been holding out at that point for a nice looking one , and then had my accident...so now i guess i should just pick up one and get it working , seeing as how my atomizer never showed up and ive been on analogs ever since...


-hov