Cheap mechanical setup (HELP)
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Get the iStick.
batteries and a decent charger will run you $40+. Add to that the cost of a voltmeter (or DMM) so you make sure you are not discharging your batteries too low (another $15-$20). And if you are going to be rebuilding, another $15-$20 for an ohm reader. And then there's rebuilding supplies ........
batteries and a decent charger will run you $40+. Add to that the cost of a voltmeter (or DMM) so you make sure you are not discharging your batteries too low (another $15-$20). And if you are going to be rebuilding, another $15-$20 for an ohm reader. And then there's rebuilding supplies ........
Going to have a tough time to get a total setup for 60 bucks even if you get clones. Batteries and charger alone like susan explained is going to be in the neighborhood of $40.00. Thats already more than half of your budget. I dont think you will find a mod and atty kanthal wick etc. for 20 bucks.
If you're really handy, you could probably find the parts at Home Depot and build one for that... aside from that, I'd make the same suggestion as Susan... iStick or Hybris Kit
If you're lost, you can't go wrong with the mvp2 - except nowadays, 11 watts seems rather low.
Then there's the istick; it's 510 thread only, and doesn't do low wattage apparently; being able to turn things down when you're new to vaping a important.
Otherwise, you can go for a replaceable battery mod like the vamo, svd, or zmax; or e-lvt. or tesla
I work in a vape shop so another suggestion is to find some cheap clones on ebay and have a local shop build them but as everyone else mentioned unless you win a bid through ebay at a low price, just the mod, atty and at least one battery will set you back about what your spending limit is. then you need a charger and have to get good batteries if you plan on sub ohming at all. so in short stick with a regulated mod with an enclosed battery and a tank for now. When getting into mods you do not wanna be cheap about the charger, the batteries or the ohm reader at all!!! This is not just friendly advice this is a must if you plan on doing anything sub ohm related!!!
I go cheap on mods and attys all the time just to see what I can resell my clone setups off at in shop but all the stuff I like and keep is authentic and will stay that way because you get what you pay for. When you get into clones you are getting into bad machining (bad threads, uneven milling, etc.) and voltage drops that are unsatisfactory if you want a good long lasting mod. Mods are a hobby and very time consuming and expensive and even going cheap on mods and attys doesnt save you from having to spend good money on good batteries, good chargers and good testing equipment, just IMO
I go cheap on mods and attys all the time just to see what I can resell my clone setups off at in shop but all the stuff I like and keep is authentic and will stay that way because you get what you pay for. When you get into clones you are getting into bad machining (bad threads, uneven milling, etc.) and voltage drops that are unsatisfactory if you want a good long lasting mod. Mods are a hobby and very time consuming and expensive and even going cheap on mods and attys doesnt save you from having to spend good money on good batteries, good chargers and good testing equipment, just IMO
Itaste VV by Innokin is a good starting point but as pointed out edyle, 11 watts is not that significant anymore
Mostly true. There are clones out there that are better than the authentic. There are some clone mechs around with some of the lowest voltage drops amongst all mods. Machining is spot on for some while gimpy on others. There is a difference IMO from a high quality clone and a cheap repro to make a buck. This is where reviews come into play.
Damn.. now would you need a ohm reader if you're using the iStick doesn't the stick read everything and corresponds the voltage and what not if RDA is put on there?
I bought 2 Isticks one black and one silver. I think that the are great and affordable. I get about 3 days before they have to be recharged. I have several VV box mods. I like things that are easy. The Istick gives you voltage, watts and reads the ohms of your carto no need for a meter. The size is a big plus.
I grabbed an iStick, Nautilus Mini and a boatload of juice for the same price as a (decent) clone, charger, (good) batteries and RTA would have cost me; I'm happy with my decision for now. Of course its possible to use a mech with the new lower ohm coils that Kanger is putting out - several guys at work do but I much more enjoy being able to charge on the fly right now than dealing with hauling batteries around.
Its performance is pretty respectable IMO, and the iStick is native 510 but comes with an eGo adapter. Playing with the voltages yesterday on its first tank I had to pull over cause I couldn't see properly out of the window of my truck with the first bit of vaping LOL.
Its performance is pretty respectable IMO, and the iStick is native 510 but comes with an eGo adapter. Playing with the voltages yesterday on its first tank I had to pull over cause I couldn't see properly out of the window of my truck with the first bit of vaping LOL.
Agreed I was referring to his price range which IMO puts nicer clones out of range unfortunately, agreed that some clones perform better but they have to be from a good manufacturer like shenxi which makes a panzer clone (actually like 5 different versions lol) which outperforms the original in all aspects. But for the most part I would still have to side with you get what you pay for.
I would recomend the iStick and go from there it's almost plug and play and will keep you vaping until you can afford to invest into rda's and a mech mod. There are nice clones out there but like it has been said do the research and check the reviews not all clones are made the same.
My suggestion is one that I started with, Kamry k103 which I bought as a kit with the mod, a tank, 2 18350 batteries and a charger for $40. I would suggest buying a cheaper kit like this and as you have more money slowly upgrade it with better batteries new tank or atty etc. There isnt much you can do with just $60 as mentioned before as an istick will cost you 30-40 then you need an atty or tank and rebuilding supplies etc.
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