China GG

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tc1

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No vape difference.

A mechanical mod with a kick at 8 watts is going to be the same as a vamo at 8 watts.

I just like the idea of having a mod that will never wear out for work purposes. Of course ... there's no guarantee the kick will last forever either. I just can't see myself going back to standard voltage, especially since I make my own juice and some vape better at different settings. Ecto-1 being my current fav and its much more sensitive to higher voltage/watts.

Might end up grabbing one of these just for another backup anywho and build some lower resistance coils. Heck, maybe turn it into my dripping rba mod.

I have my doubts that the finish would stay nice if I kept it in my pocket at work.
 
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michliu

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I have the Vamo and got my China GG on Friday. Because the Vamo cuts out on resistances less than 1.2 ohms, I would have to do 6 wraps with 30g Kanthal to get it to 1.5 ohms to insure it would fire. Any less wraps and my genesis clones would sometimes not fire due to low ohms. With this number of wraps, it takes a while for the coils to heat up, likely because it has to heat up a larger surface area of the wick. 4 wraps of 30g gives me about 1.0 ohms and there isn't any delay in the coil getting hot on the China GG. I feel like I get a fuller, more responsive vape with the China GG and a low ohm coil. I will caveat all this with I have only been using gennies for a couple of months, but they have replaced all my other atomizers: dripping RBA's and tanks. This is my first mechanical mod, so I'm probably not adding anything new to the body of vaping knowledge, but just what I've found.

That said, I've been rotating between the Vamo and the China GG.
 

440BB

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I've been using mine exclusively since it arrived two days ago, and have some thoughts to add. Upon arriving I had thread lockup on the center tube when trying to remove it from the bottom tube. After applying noalox and working it back and forth for a while it came free and smoothed out a bit. I found that by flipping the tube the threads on the other end were smoother and everything worked fine. When I couldn't remove the middle tube I contacted Hoosier Vapes for help and they replied promptly with the same suggestion I had found in the interim. Fast shipping and helpful support was reassuring.

The battery clearance is fine for my AW IMR batteries but an Ultrafire red jacket 18650 was too fat. As I always use AW IMR's in my mechanical mods the snug fit is no problem. The tubes extend enough to add a protection fuse if one wishes as well, but I don't have a Kick to verify it will fit with an 18650. I use Vision Ego's (V1) a lot and they sink into the well perfectly on the 510 threads with good airflow and are well protected from damage. The chrome finish on mine is very good and free of flaws. Button resistance is fairly stiff but not uncomfortable. It provides a powerful warm vape at 3.7 volts on a 1.6 ohm clearo.

Although there are obvious compromises from the original, being chrome plated brass with fewer features, I'm enjoying a near-GGTS experience for very little cost. The ability to squeeze the button with your palm works great in cold weather wearing gloves and I'm not overly worried about taking such an inexpensive device out and about.

As a first release from China it's a pleasant surprise.
 
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Kemosabe

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If you use RBA's you could easily do away with the VV/VW. Make your coils between 1-1.2ohms and it will rock out through the whole battery life.

i was wondering about this exact scanario. i just cant come to terms with being "ok" with the voltage dropping. i have a vmod that i run a 1.5ohm atty on. its burnt at 4.1-4.2v, and delivers sub par vape at 3.2-3.5. so ive got roughly 50% of my batterys voltage in a workable zone.
my rbas dont seem to be perfoming any differently. too high a voltage still tastes burnt, and too low is still paltry. i knw i still need more experience wrapping wicks and coils, but i just dont understand how non-vv is helping with anyhting. :/
 

Rader2146

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It's hard to explain, but there is something wonderful about an 1.0-1.2 ohm RBA. It does take a slight adjustment to how you vape. With a fully charged battery, a short draw is all you need for GREAT vapor. If you take a longer draw like you would with a higher ohm atty, it will tend to burn as the heat soaks the wick. As the battery drains the draws get a little longer due to the voltage drop, but still shorter than a draw I would take off a carto.

Of course you do need a good working coil and wick, or else the hotspots will burn the juice at any resistance.
 

michliu

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There is something about being able to do less wraps that seems to give a richer vape. It seems counter intuitive, but it's probably YMMV. I've tried a high ohm coil in an Aga-T, 7 wraps for 2.6 ohms and it doesn't vape half as well as a 4 wrap 1.3 ohm coil on the same Vamo. More juice in the wick above the coils? Less heat sink into the wick? Less chance of getting dry spots in the coil area because it's smaller? I don't pretend to understand the engineering or the science.

I also find stainless steel wicks in a genesis to be more forgiving with the voltage change that comes with a battery draining down. The vape off a fresh 4.2v battery on a 1.0 ohm coil doesn't change that much all the way down to 3.6 volts. Even on the Vamo, 7.5 watts to 9.5 watts feels pretty much the same on my genesis atomizers.
 

crxess

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Can someone confirm this is kick friendly? i own a few and im really only considering buying the gg if i can pop one in there, thanks!

You own a few what? Kicks?
The china CCTS or Kamry Storm(same thing) will take a Kick with 18500 or 18350. For 18650 you will need a second short tube. A few venders have them separate for a couple $$.
 
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