clearomizer/fluxomizer, lots of questions, planning on trying them out. lots of questions. many questions.

Status
Not open for further replies.

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
how do you guys fill your juices with the new deluxes? I dont want to use the syringe method so will just dripping through the little notches on either sides work? will that fill it up without pouring into the cup?
thanks for all the replies, helped clear the air alot.

Without removing the bottom seal, there's no real way to drip fill. Once you remove the bottom seal and replace it with the upside-down middle seal though you can just yank the new bottom seal out with bent paperclip (carefully of course, so as not to grab the coil or wick) and drip fill down the sides.

I also had to fiddle with these. Same thing with the plug and I had 4 out of 5 that would not fire until I fiddled with the center contact on the bottom. That being said and as much as I HATE having to fix something brand new out of the box. I ordered 10 more. They are a fantastic vape when you get them dialed in right.

Yeah, that's my dilemma. They're an absolutely mad vape when tweaked right, but the tweaking has been a pain in the .... so far. I've got one (modded) that's pretty much fine, another (modded) that seems to be holding up, and a third (straight out of the box) that I've been letting soak in for the last couple of hours that is not performing well. It's maddening, but I guess that's the CE2 experience. At least it works when you get it all fixed up.
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
I'm down for a little tinkering if the vape is as good as described. You aren't the only one who has said the same thing... get it dialed in, and it vapes like a champ. Just ordered a box, and looking forward to trying them!

Oh yeah, once it's modded properly it's pretty intense with absolutely stupid amounts of vapor. Getting to that point might take some trial and error, though. I've already nuked two of them (bent the post too far, caused a leak at the positive post insulator) but I've got the mod part down pretty well I think. I want to get one working without removing the bottom seal though, just to see if it's possible. Well, that, and there's less chance of leakage or flooding with the real bottom seal in place. (But without easily being able to lift it a bit, the reason for that is that not enough juice gets in there in the first place.)
 

Nomoreash

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2010
3,261
931
Chattanooga, TN
I got the burnt taste too. I removed the seal that goes around the cup and inserted the middle seal upside down directly on top of the cup. The wicking is great, no more burnt taste and there is noleakage under normal use. If held upside-down for a prolonged period there is some minimal leakage. Unfortunately the middle seal only comes on the XL version, not the shorties.

On your next one try just pulling the filler seal up a little or if you remove it to fill don't put it all the way back down. Just line up the wick slots, make sure the cup is centered and push the seal far enough back down that it seals around the cup but the top isn't setting on top of it. I usually put the ring back on top of it and push it down with my drip tip since I use a drip tip anyway, that put it in the right position for me without seating all the way back down and restricting wicking.

I've been using this method on the new ones and it works great, no leaking or getting juice in the center tube. Been using it on my volt which gets positioned every way one can think of in my pocket, laying on my desk, etc and it's working great.
 

carpedebass

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 10, 2011
2,168
1,500
56
The Alamo City
Hi all. I have tried the XL KR808D-1 CE2 Clearomizer from Myvaporstore. They hold alot of juice. A full Cart lasted me about 3 days. Only problem is that if you tighten them down just a tad too much, they will crack at the battery end and slowly leak.

Yea, the simple answer here is just don't torque them down so tight. I just ruined one of mine (pulled the wires out of it) trying to mod it as my initial mod just stopped working after less than a day. Hopefully it was just something bad with the clearo and not my "modding."

After sitting back and thinking about it, I really don't see what has been modded other than pulling everything out, filling, then putting everything back in as it was before...but for some odd reason the taste is better and the vapor is much stronger...maybe it's all in my head.
 

kiggakid

Full Member
May 27, 2011
32
4
N.Y.
I really appreciate the couple of guys that answered my question. It really is appreciated to know that I get responses and taken care of, hahaha.
Now then, I have ordered the 2.4 to 2.6 green xl fluxies (THE LAST 2, I SOLD IT ALL OUT WAHAHAHWAHAHAHA, NOW ALL THE 2.4 TO 2.6 GREEN/CLEAR/SMOKEY FLUXIES ARE SOLD OUT) what should I do when I first get them? Should I fill them first? Should I use the middle seal as the primary seal? Should I fluff the wick? How do I fluff the wick? Can anyone explain how fluffing it will fix it and avoid a burnt taste? I dont understand how that works. Do I just run warm/hot water through the top to clean these out? Or should I remove the tube entirely and run it through water? Does the wicks need to be completely dry of water to function?
So far, hows the lifespan on these things? How long can one go on for? Lets say, with changing the juices after one refill repeatedly. Im pretty excited to use these things. Its my first carto that doesnt have a filler. And I absolutely enjoy the idea of a no filler carto since the filler steals some of the juice no matter how much you try to vape it dry. It will never be dry, only dry hits...the only reason why I havent tried a tank mod is because its too big for my small pv. The air vents on the sides would probably be suffocated and therefore, unusable. Please, please fluxo...work for me...please replace the clear dual coils...pplleeaassee. lata guys.
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
I really appreciate the couple of guys that answered my question. It really is appreciated to know that I get responses and taken care of, hahaha.
Now then, I have ordered the 2.4 to 2.6 green xl fluxies (THE LAST 2, I SOLD IT ALL OUT WAHAHAHWAHAHAHA, NOW ALL THE 2.4 TO 2.6 GREEN/CLEAR/SMOKEY FLUXIES ARE SOLD OUT) what should I do when I first get them? Should I fill them first? Should I use the middle seal as the primary seal? Should I fluff the wick? How do I fluff the wick? Can anyone explain how fluffing it will fix it and avoid a burnt taste? I dont understand how that works. Do I just run warm/hot water through the top to clean these out? Or should I remove the tube entirely and run it through water? Does the wicks need to be completely dry of water to function?
So far, hows the lifespan on these things? How long can one go on for? Lets say, with changing the juices after one refill repeatedly. Im pretty excited to use these things. Its my first carto that doesnt have a filler. And I absolutely enjoy the idea of a no filler carto since the filler steals some of the juice no matter how much you try to vape it dry. It will never be dry, only dry hits...the only reason why I havent tried a tank mod is because its too big for my small pv. The air vents on the sides would probably be suffocated and therefore, unusable. Please, please fluxo...work for me...please replace the clear dual coils...pplleeaassee. lata guys.

This video should answer your questions.



As for how long they last, well, they can be disassembled, cleaned, dried and dry-burned, and since you have easy and direct access to the coil you can (carefully) scrape gunk off and dry-burn until clean, so I imagine you could get these things to last a pretty decent amount of time, provided you don't pop the coil with sustained 6V burns -- at those resistances we're talking about up to 15W output at 6V here, which is pretty insane. I don't even want to think about doing that at 7.2V.

Also keep in mind you can't vape these dry. I mean, you can try but it may have trouble wicking the past 1/4 tank without tilting it frequently to feed the top parts of the wicks. I usually top up when I'm down 1/3 to 1/4.
 
Last edited:

woolgrower

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
190
70
62
Missouri
Been using it on my volt which gets positioned every way one can think of in my pocket, laying on my desk, etc and it's working great.

Ok, now this isn't working for me because I'm getting a ton of leakage out the battery end when I leave them on their sides longer than a few seconds. If its connected to a battery (I'm using Riva 510s) then I usually can keep them upright but if I have a spare that I"m taking to work, I put it in a plastic baggie and the danged thing has leaked out 1/4 or more of the juice by the time I get to work if I don't keep it upright. THAT sucks and could be a big reason for me to give up on these.
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
Ok, now this isn't working for me because I'm getting a ton of leakage out the battery end when I leave them on their sides longer than a few seconds. If its connected to a battery (I'm using Riva 510s) then I usually can keep them upright but if I have a spare that I"m taking to work, I put it in a plastic baggie and the danged thing has leaked out 1/4 or more of the juice by the time I get to work if I don't keep it upright. THAT sucks and could be a big reason for me to give up on these.

Are these the Fluxomizer Deluxes? Have you done the seal mod to them or are these right out of the box? I've got 7 of these things in rotation right now, all with the seal mod (because I couldn't get them to wick properly otherwise) and the only time I ever got leaking down the center tube was when I filled too quickly and got some juice down into the coil cup. Otherwise these things have been remarkably leak-free.
 

woolgrower

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
190
70
62
Missouri
Are these the Fluxomizer Deluxes? Have you done the seal mod to them or are these right out of the box? I've got 7 of these things in rotation right now, all with the seal mod (because I couldn't get them to wick properly otherwise) and the only time I ever got leaking down the center tube was when I filled too quickly and got some juice down into the coil cup. Otherwise these things have been remarkably leak-free.

I do still have the notched seal cup and am not currently using the 1st inner seal (drip tip on top) but I did try putting the 1st seal in on top of the notched seal with no improvement. In the videos I watched they all said to discard the 1st inner seal and just use the notched ones so thats what I'd been doing with a drip tip. Now I see you guys are saying to just use the 1st inner seal and discard the notched one??? :confused:
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
I do still have the notched seal cup and am not currently using the 1st inner seal (drip tip on top) but I did try putting the 1st seal in on top of the notched seal with no improvement. In the videos I watched they all said to discard the 1st inner seal and just use the notched ones so thats what I'd been doing with a drip tip. Now I see you guys are saying to just use the 1st inner seal and discard the notched one??? :confused:

Yup. Remove the large notched cup seal and chuck it. Fluff wicks. (Use a bent paperclip or needle-nose tweezers to pull a bit of extra wick up level with the slots so they bunch up against the slots for improved wicking and more juice at the coil level -- just don't pull them up above the lip of the cup) Fill. Place the thinner middle seal groove-side down flush over top of the cup to act as your new cup seal. Replace drip tip and vape. When disassembling to clean, just remember to fluff the wicks again after replacing the tube.

Vapes like a champ for me this way, no wicking problems, no leakage. Some condensation buildup between the seal and the bottom of my drip tip, but that's normal with anything.
 

woolgrower

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
190
70
62
Missouri
So what exactly is causing the leakage out the battery end? I guess I don't understand how switching seals is going to help that. I mean I understand the juice is going into the atty and running down the center shaft (or whatever its called) right? So how does the other seal stop that? Or should I just shut up and do it? :)

I don't have one of the middle seals with me, will have to wait til tonight to try it.
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
So what exactly is causing the leakage out the battery end? I guess I don't understand how switching seals is going to help that. I mean I understand the juice is going into the atty and running down the center shaft (or whatever its called) right? So how does the other seal stop that? Or should I just shut up and do it? :)

I don't have one of the middle seals with me, will have to wait til tonight to try it.

The design of the CE2 is basically this: There is a hollow center tube going from the battery end up to a ceramic cup that is used for air flow. The ceramic cup has the hole for air and two notches in either side where the wick runs through. The coil is wrapped around the wick, suspended in the middle of the cup.

Leakage occurs when excess liquid is flowing into the cup and down the center tube. This can either happen when the notches are too large and allow too much liquid to flow in (such as when you mod it by cutting the notches), when the seal is lifted too high (a common mod to allow more liquid to wick to the coil), when the seal is not seated properly (misaligned), if the seal is torn in a place that allows liquid to seep into the cup, or when it is overfilled. (You should fill only to the bottom of the cup at most.) There's one other way to cause leakage: Bending or pushing the cup too far when trying to remove the seal, which can cause the insulation around the positive center post at the battery end to tear. (I killed two of my first ones this way while trying to remove the cup seal before I learned how to do it properly.) This causes liquid to leak out around the insulation at the bottom of the carto, rather than down the center tube.

If the leak is caused by torn insulation at the battery end, there's not much you can do. Otherwise using the thin center seal as the cup seal (again, groove side down, smooth side up) is much easier to seat and make flush around the lip of the cup than the big cup seal.
 

woolgrower

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
190
70
62
Missouri
The design of the CE2 is basically this: There is a hollow center tube going from the battery end up to a ceramic cup that is used for air flow. The ceramic cup has the hole for air and two notches in either side where the wick runs through. The coil is wrapped around the wick, suspended in the middle of the cup.

Leakage occurs when excess liquid is flowing into the cup and down the center tube. This can either happen when the notches are too large and allow too much liquid to flow in (such as when you mod it by cutting the notches), when the seal is lifted too high (a common mod to allow more liquid to wick to the coil), when the seal is not seated properly (misaligned), if the seal is torn in a place that allows liquid to seep into the cup, or when it is overfilled. (You should fill only to the bottom of the cup at most.) There's one other way to cause leakage: Bending or pushing the cup too far when trying to remove the seal, which can cause the insulation around the positive center post at the battery end to tear. (I killed two of my first ones this way while trying to remove the cup seal before I learned how to do it properly.) This causes liquid to leak out around the insulation at the bottom of the carto, rather than down the center tube.

If the leak is caused by torn insulation at the battery end, there's not much you can do. Otherwise using the thin center seal as the cup seal (again, groove side down, smooth side up) is much easier to seat and make flush around the lip of the cup than the big cup seal.

Wow, EXCELLENT explanation, thank you so much! (I'm glad you didn't tell me to just shut up and do it lol). Its quite possible I damaged the post end as you suggested on at least one when I tried to get the seal out the wrong way. I also destroyed one by catching the wick and coil with my paperclip or whatever I was using at the time (several of my knitting tools now are covered in juice).

Just now I removed the notched seal and just stuck my drip tip back on (the one that came with...which is growing on me) because I can't get the drip tip on, to my satisfaction, w/o shoving the notched seal too far onto the cup which in turn was giving me a burnt marshmallow taste. Way better, just need to make sure I don't lay it down.

Fiddling. Yes there is definitely fiddling with these but I still like the quality of vape much better than with cartos so I'm hanging in there.
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
Wow, EXCELLENT explanation, thank you so much! (I'm glad you didn't tell me to just shut up and do it lol). Its quite possible I damaged the post end as you suggested on at least one when I tried to get the seal out the wrong way. I also destroyed one by catching the wick and coil with my paperclip or whatever I was using at the time (several of my knitting tools now are covered in juice).

Just now I removed the notched seal and just stuck my drip tip back on (the one that came with...which is growing on me) because I can't get the drip tip on, to my satisfaction, w/o shoving the notched seal too far onto the cup which in turn was giving me a burnt marshmallow taste. Way better, just need to make sure I don't lay it down.

Fiddling. Yes there is definitely fiddling with these but I still like the quality of vape much better than with cartos so I'm hanging in there.

Oh, very much so. I find that once modded these things vape like nothing else even at lower voltage. I did a video review and showed how these vaped even on a lowly 510, and the vapor production was still amazing, and the throat hit was even fantastic on a 510. These things seriously best even the dual coil cartos that I love so much, even at higher resistance and lower voltages, and drain much less battery to boot. I'm suitably impressed with these.

Here's the trick to removing those original cup seals: First, a paperclip will make it much harder. I tried numerous times and while it worked, I both tore the seals to shreds and had a hell of a time getting it out even so. Try and use a thin hooked device like a seam ripper (you can get those at fabric or craft stores) or make something. I used a small flathead precision screwdriver and bent the end with some pliers until it was a hook shape.

Now, the real trick is this: Get your tool just under the bottom of the seal through the center (as you've found out, careful to avoid hooking the coil and/or wick). With as little pressure as you can get away with, push the tool against the inner rim of the cup, lifting the seal until your tool makes it over the lip of the cup. Once over the lip of the cup, push very firmly against the sidewalls and slowly start lifting it out, keeping pressure constant. You can lift it out all the way this way, but if you lift it out a bit, then rotate 45° and repeat this process all the way round, it will be much easier to remove without bending or placing pressure on the cup and tube, and you stand a much better chance of removing it without tearing the crap out of the seal. (Not that it matters if you tear the seal as you're just doing away with it anyway, but it ensures you don't get any torn bits sprinkled into the cup or on the coil.)

One more advantage to this mod: No more syringe filling. Just keep your hook tool handy; it removes the new cup seal easily and also seats it in place much better, too (although you can use a straw or paperclip or whatever you want to push it back down). When inserting the new cup seal, try and push it down in stages by pushing one side a little bit, rotating the carto a bit, pushing, rotating, and so on, so that it slides down without having one side shoved all the way down at a time. This allow you to get a better, move even seal without the possibility of having one side wedge itself too far down the side of the cup. This can create an uneven seal and push the tube out of center.

Yeah, it's sounds a bit fiddly, but believe me, once you've done it once or twice it's practically second nature. I can take off my drip tip, remove the seal, fill and recap inside a minute.

One thing I've found with drip tips though: Besides the fact that you should be able to fit any drip tip in now, the edges of these things are pretty sharp and can shave bits off the drip tip's O-ring. One thing I found that helps if you have a tip with a fluted design (thin in the middle and flaring out toward the tip) is to push the flared end of the tip into the top of the Fluxo to widen it just a bit, then put the tip in. It keeps the sharp edges of the plastic from shaving bits of the O-ring off. :)
 

Mindfield

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 28, 2010
5,029
2,631
53
Toronto, ON
I ordered some Fluxomizers this morning (got the clear green ones.) Mindfield, did you end up using any special tools to do this mod? Perhaps the circuit grabber things?

I'm told IC pullers actually do work well, but I never actually used those. As I mentioned in my previous post, I took an old precision flathead screwdriver and bent the flat end with some pliers to form a 90° hook and used that. You should be able to find a set of precision screwdrivers pretty cheaply. You could also use the little screwdriver in an eyeglass repair kit, or get a seam ripper from any fabric or craft store. Or the aforementioned IC puller. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread