cloud chasing help
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that would depend on the atomizer you put on top and how many ohms your running with it. the k100 with a 30 amp battery with a rba like an igo w duel coil @ say 3.7v and .5 ohm duel coil your will push almost double what the vamo will push some where around 27 watts depending on how full you battery is. while I believe the vamo will limit you to 15 watts with just for instance a protank 3 running duel coils @ 2 ohms. I would use the vv/vw for tanks and the mech for dripping or rba tanks.
ok so on the k100 would the Sony US18650VTC3 18650 1600mAh 3.7V be good for a battery? and i was only going to use the k100 for dripping. i was looking at one that has 1.8 ohms and i was going to use it for the k100 would this all work together. and if so would it work good?
Might as well go ahead and buy the VTC4's. Can find plenty on ebay 2 for $20 with free shipping.
Please be careful buying batteries on ebay. A warning about FAKE Batteries and illegal Batteries | eBay
Could be a recipe for disaster.
Could be a recipe for disaster.
yep always buy from reputable batter vendors. I solely buy them from rtdvapor and illumination supply. For the vtc4's you can get them off IS for around 17 shipped with the code ispower.
I really don't trust any batteries. Even if they are rated at 30 amps, if I go anywhere below .7-.8 ohms, Im constantly checking my battery for heat and being very aware. I promise….you want your face
Exactly what I was about to say, Sony VTC4 are the best you can get ATM. I’ve seen people vaping .12 Ohm coils with them (Not that I would, I think that’s just stupid).
Also lower Ohms does not always mean Bigger Clouds. My 7 wrap (Dual Coil) around a 2mm Coil ID at about .45-.50 Ohms hits waaaaayyyy harder than my previous 4 Wrap (Dual Coil) around a 3mm Coil ID at about .30 Ohms.
I posted a Video on YouTube last night, because I wanted to show my friends and my Sister and her Boyfriend how hard that 7 wrap (Dual) hits, and I’ll go ahead and share it with you guys.
Here is the link,
Me blowing some massive vape clouds - YouTube
EDIT: BTW it's 28ga Kanthal Wire
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I would recommend an ohm meter to go along with those batteries as well. Trianglevapes, fatdaddyvapes, and 101vape have also been reputable suppliers for me for the VTC4.
I would recommend a mechanical, that's if you have a multimeter to check Ohms and Shorts, that's a must.
The reason being is that a mechanical IMO is like a Universal Device. You can have High Amps/Watts or You can have Low Amps/Watts. You can make it do anything you want, it works with all tanks (Granted you have to get an ego adapter, thats about $2). It will fire any coil you put on it (Literally).
Now a Vamo (or most Regulated devices) your very restricted on the types of coils you can build (nothing below 1.2 Ohms), your restricted to only 15 watts, which in turn can restrict how much vapor is produced. Also if you get into Dual coils you will have to build 2-2.4 Ohm coils for the thing to even fire (That means slow heat up time).
I know because I have a Vamo and thing never get used for anything other than a Ohm Checker.
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He's going to do it no matter what...the videos are long out there, it's all over, there is no telling someone who sees those clouds, that they aren't ready.
The only thing "we" can do is point them to the durable, genuine gear.
These clouds you want OP, are down to airflow and a well made coil. The power supply is last in that chain.
OP, Orbtronic.com great batts, free shipping.
Start with a good battery, like their 30A SX30's and you have a nice ceiling.
The only thing "we" can do is point them to the durable, genuine gear.
These clouds you want OP, are down to airflow and a well made coil. The power supply is last in that chain.
OP, Orbtronic.com great batts, free shipping.
Start with a good battery, like their 30A SX30's and you have a nice ceiling.
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I agree with this comment, but by this person asking more questions and doing more research on safety on mech mods/battery, heat on rba (which I see people rarely talk about) etc...and maybe add a kick 2 etc..he can slowly get his feet wet...
I was able to produce some clouds with .6x ohm with Kick 2 on my Nemmy +trident v2 clone...I don't think I will go below .6 ohm...not worth it to me..
I completely agree when I went to the local shop and saw the clouds people were blowing, I looked at my Kanger Mini and my Ego-Twist and said ok I’m getting one of those.
And that was it......I got one
EDIT: As Long as you have the right battery for your coil, then sub ohming is no more dangerous than a 2 Ohm coil on an Ego
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But here's my question.
Did you cheat yourself out of what you might have found to be your favorite way to vape by doing so?
I see so many cloud chasers that to this day have no idea of what else is out there.
<~~ that's a 2.2 ohm coil @ 4.3v, 1.95 amps, 8.4 watts
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This^
Anyone who is building coils should study battery safety. I like my face the way it is.
No I didn't, I guess I worded my post incorrectly. I had a Vamo with a Kayfun Clone right before I went to sub ohm. I tried Kanger mini protanks, Evods, CE4, Genny's.........I started building coils about 1 week into vaping, I tried Micro's and Nanos at all Ohms that my batteries would allow in the above mentioned tanks, and nothing I have tried beats my Patriot RDA at about .5 Ohms, Flavor and Vapor production wise.
My friends who all have either Clearomizers or Genny Style atomizers, allways say " Man why does everything taste 10x better in yours", the Massive clouds are just a plus
Couple things -
- The K101 is far superior and about the same price as the K100. Go for the K101. I have won multiple cloud contests with my K101, so believe me when I say that they are great devices. There is no need at all to go get something expensive when buying a mechanical mod. That said, I do now favor a copper nemesis over the k101. They are also quite cheap.
- Work your way down the resistances. It is a very bad idea to just jump into the extreme builds. You will find that they are actually very hard to pull off for the most part, and require a fair bit of experience to do. Sorry, that's just the way it goes. You need to learn how to eliminate hot legs, uneven coils, etc. Also how to check for shorts, and how to wick well.
- With the second point in mind, get yourself an Ohm meter, it is a REQUIRED piece of equipment. It is not the resistance measurement that is so important, it is the fact that it can tell you if something is wrong with your build that is important. Placing your build on an ohm meter and then tapping the device is the best way to ensure your build is viable, if the number stays the same, and you know your battery can handle that number, your good. If the number fluctuates when you tap the device, something is wrong.
- The US18650VTC3 is a perfectly good battery, the VTC4 has higher mah, meaning you will get more life out of it. The new VTC5 is even better. That said, they all have the same amp limitations and time limitations at different resistances.
- The last point before commenting on other peoples comments - AIRFLOW. While resistance is a big factor to cloud chasing, air flow is an equally big factor. You are going to need to get handy with a drill, or find a B&M that has one available for use. I have a blog post coming up that will detail this.
Not true, the vtc4 is old news. The vtc5 and efest 35 amp are the best batteries on the market atm.
No. The same build with lower resistance, with better air flow, means more vapor, always. But it takes knowledge and build experience. You cannot simply slap together a low resistance coil without weighing up all the variables and expect it to perform.
Your video has tiny clouds for a 0.50 build, your airflow or wicking needs adjustment, sorry.
This right here is sage advice. I have personally seen fake vtc4s which had inside them a single cell with a soldered wire running up to the positive, the rest being packed with flour.
- The K101 is far superior and about the same price as the K100. Go for the K101. I have won multiple cloud contests with my K101, so believe me when I say that they are great devices. There is no need at all to go get something expensive when buying a mechanical mod. That said, I do now favor a copper nemesis over the k101. They are also quite cheap.
- Work your way down the resistances. It is a very bad idea to just jump into the extreme builds. You will find that they are actually very hard to pull off for the most part, and require a fair bit of experience to do. Sorry, that's just the way it goes. You need to learn how to eliminate hot legs, uneven coils, etc. Also how to check for shorts, and how to wick well.
- With the second point in mind, get yourself an Ohm meter, it is a REQUIRED piece of equipment. It is not the resistance measurement that is so important, it is the fact that it can tell you if something is wrong with your build that is important. Placing your build on an ohm meter and then tapping the device is the best way to ensure your build is viable, if the number stays the same, and you know your battery can handle that number, your good. If the number fluctuates when you tap the device, something is wrong.
- The US18650VTC3 is a perfectly good battery, the VTC4 has higher mah, meaning you will get more life out of it. The new VTC5 is even better. That said, they all have the same amp limitations and time limitations at different resistances.
- The last point before commenting on other peoples comments - AIRFLOW. While resistance is a big factor to cloud chasing, air flow is an equally big factor. You are going to need to get handy with a drill, or find a B&M that has one available for use. I have a blog post coming up that will detail this.
Not true, the vtc4 is old news. The vtc5 and efest 35 amp are the best batteries on the market atm.
No. The same build with lower resistance, with better air flow, means more vapor, always. But it takes knowledge and build experience. You cannot simply slap together a low resistance coil without weighing up all the variables and expect it to perform.
Your video has tiny clouds for a 0.50 build, your airflow or wicking needs adjustment, sorry.
This right here is sage advice. I have personally seen fake vtc4s which had inside them a single cell with a soldered wire running up to the positive, the rest being packed with flour.
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