Coil building

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steam heat

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If its not firing my guess would be either the coil is not firmly seated or the resistance is to low for your mod to fire. Also make sure that no part of the coil is touching the rba chimney cap as this will cause it to short out and not fire( also can be dangerous)...in any event we are gonna need some more information from you, maybe even a few pic.
 

Two_Bears

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Is there a coil building book for dummies? I've tried like a hundred times with no success. I have a brand new rba from smok and the one that came with my tank. And it won't fire

You really need two things.

1. The manual for your mod. To find the resistance limitations of your mod.

2. An ohm meter to read the resistance of tge coil.

On a regulated mod it will not fire a coik too high or too low in resistance.
 

Mben78

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+1, more info please. We can walk you through it. What mod, what RBA, what wire, do you know the diameter of whatever you're winding on, how many wraps are you using, what resistance do you want? Are you building for flavor or cloud? Tell us everything :)
In using the sigelei 200w mod. Dual coil rba. Clapton wire. Not sure what resistance is ideal and somewhere between flavor and vapor
 

suprtrkr

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In using the sigelei 200w mod. Dual coil rba. Clapton wire. Not sure what resistance is ideal and somewhere between flavor and vapor
I think you'll find a natural sweet spot for balance between flavor and vapor in the .5~.6Ω and 40~60 watt range. Assuming your Clapton wire is 26/32, and a 2.5mm mandrel, try an 8/7 wrap for .6ishΩ, and in the 50~60 watt range; or a 7/6 wrap on the same mandrel for about .5Ω, and run that in the 40~50 watt range. That should put the thermal flux at the wire surface just over 100mW/mm^2 and should cook nicely. You have an ohmmeter, right? And you know about Steam Engine? Go to the "Wire Wizard" tab on SE-- farthest to the right at the top of the page-- to lay out Clapton coils. In the Wire Builder block you'll see the resistance, top line in bold type, and adjust your build in the top block to make double the ohms you want for duals. Fifth line down, also bold, is heat flux per watt. A good heat flux for most juices-- they vary as individuals-- usually falls between 100-200 mW/mm^2, and you'll have a personal preference toward the higher or lower end of the scale once you figure it out. Take your desired heat flux and divide the heat flux per watt figure into it to determine what watts to set the machine to make your desired heat flux on that coil set.
 

suprtrkr

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That probably means it's shorted out somewhere. Is it touching the cap? Is one of the leads touching the deck? Can you post a pic?
If it was shorted, wouldn't it read 0.0, or "low atomizer" or something? 9.9 sounds like too high to me, maybe not making contact.
 

suprtrkr

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You might be right. "Check Atomizer" maybe for a short?
I dunno which Siggie he has. I've got an Old Skool non-TC 150 box, and it says "check atomizer" for no tank at all. I haven't any idea what it does for a short; I don't have a shorted tank handy... :)
 
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Clydde26

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TFV4 Top.jpg


Alright not to insult your intelligence but it sounds like you have a short somewhere in your build that is not registering that you have a coil built on your RBA. Im going to walk you through a pictoral of a basic build set up and how it should look to get you in the ball park of getting a reading on the tank. The correct resistances and such will be up to your through steam engine.org. Keep in mind that you build has to meet the devices minimum resistance capabilities. IF it is the sigelei Fuchai then the minimum is .05 and you are good to go with most builds.
So to just describe the first diagram I have a basic coil in the Dual RBA as you can see the Leads alternate. On one side you want to have lead...skip a space lead....space. And the on the other side you mirror that. You want to position your coil over the air hole as best as possible and away from the middle of the deck. The TFV4 RBA is huge so shouldnt be any problem. I would recommend a 2.5mm Inner diameter. Also ensure that your screws are secured as tight as possible both before firing and after firing.... During the firing process they can tend to loosen up.
TFV4 Side.jpg


Next as you can see there is an approximately 1/8-1/4 inch gap between the bottom of my coil and the build deck. Due to you using clapton wire yours will be closer to the 1/8 inch range. just ensure that it isnt touching the bottom of the deck and that air can flow around the coil.

TFV4 WITH LID.jpg

Lastley with the lid on there should be a gap between the coil and the sides of the RBA cap. ensure that is isnt touching at all on either side. This is also true for when you screw your tank on ensure the coil isnt so beefy that the part of the chimney that screws into the rba doesnt make contact with the coil as well.... I would venture to guess that this would be highly unlikely unless you get into making vertical coils. Ensure the RBA is screwed down all the way tight to the Atomizer body. Then attach to your mod and see if you have power.
 
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