Coil life on mechs

[RiderVapor]

With owning my first mech which is a Rig V2 in Stainless I am on the road to learning how they work. Just recently started having it not hit as hard, tried cleaning contact point on switch, the hybrid connection up top and threads on tube with no changes. This leaves me with the coil it's self and the question about coil life on mechs or am I missing something else which might cause my rig not to be hitting as hard or as consistent for that matter? Will be buying a full copper mech very soon since loving these things a lot.

 

[Vaslovik]

More about your coil would help. I've used nothing but mechs for 3 years, and don't have that problem. I didn't set them up as hybrids though. What resistance is your coil? What's it made of? Any pics?

 

[mhertz]

Disassemble the switch completely and clean everything there and even the spring, if you haven't allready, in addition to all threads and top-cap like you did.

Mech's or not is irrelevant for coil-life, what matters is how much power and of course usage, the coil(s) are getting, so if your coil(s) resistance gives you more power(wattage) than your older regulated device, then yes it would last less long. I'm guessing it's a cleaning issue, unless you use old coils or prebuilt ones...

Btw, a copper version of your mod vs your SS version should only make a noticeable difference when using pretty low resistance, if even then... If you like copper, then that's fine of course... I do too

 

[Izan]

I am still using the same coil in my Esterigon/Tilemahos hybrid that I installed just after the new year. It's been re wicked three or four times. 304SS Spring-o-mizer@.95Ω.

Have fun
I

 

[Vaslovik]

mhertz makes a good point, the mech isn't really relevant. You want to check the resistance of your coil and see if it's still where it was. Resistance can sometimes creep upward. The issue is with your atty build, not the mech.

 

[schatz]

Enjoy your mechanical journey, they are my only devices except one provari 2.5 that I dont use anymore very often. I have used and own assorted authentic and cloned mechs and they all have one thing in common, every now and then they just lose contact and dont deliver the goods when button is pressed. You need to learn what that mod is doing and either clean or tighten something or adjust a pin or contact or stretch spring etc.They are all a little diferent except they dont damage coils any more than a regulated mod. They might be a little unreliable at times but I still love em, I always have a couple on me at all times, you need backups. Good luck have fun be safe.

 

[aceman3330]

One thing you might also look into is your battery.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[edyle]

With owning my first mech which is a Rig V2 in Stainless I am on the road to learning how they work. Just recently started having it not hit as hard, tried cleaning contact point on switch, the hybrid connection up top and threads on tube with no changes. This leaves me with the coil it's self and the question about coil life on mechs or am I missing something else which might cause my rig not to be hitting as hard or as consistent for that matter? Will be buying a full copper mech very soon since loving these things a lot.

Well I hope you know that it has no centerpin so if you use the wrong atomizer you can get a full short on top the battery and blow your teeth out.

As for the coil life;
how often you need to change wicking will be dependent on how many millilitres a day you vape.

as for the coil itself, thicker wire will last longer;
I run coils for months.

None of that has anything to do with mechs however.

The issue you are having would be a voltage drop issue;
If changing the coil solves the problem then the problem was on the contact point where the coil gets screwed down.

With a regulated mod with a screen you'd see the problem as an increase in ohms.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Check the post screws that hold the coil. They can loosen with the thermal changes that occur when using the mod.

 

[duc916]

Given that this is your first mech, chances are pretty good that what you think you know about cleaning one aren't nearly up to snuff. Cleaning a vv mod (assuming that's where you're coming from) is like wiping a car windshield. Mechs need a full service professional detailing. Read some threads in this forum regarding oxidation, cleaning etc. You likely haven't even scratched the surface of what it means to "clean" it.

 

[Baditude]

With owning my first mech which is a Rig V2 in Stainless I am on the road to learning how they work. Just recently started having it not hit as hard, tried cleaning contact point on switch, the hybrid connection up top and threads on tube with no changes. This leaves me with the coil it's self and the question about coil life on mechs or am I missing something else which might cause my rig not to be hitting as hard or as consistent for that matter?.

Well I hope you know that it has no centerpin so if you use the wrong atomizer you can get a full short on top the battery and blow your teeth out.

Forgive me if you already know this RiderVapor, but if center pin in the 510 connector of your juice attachment is not extended to make proper contact with the top of the battery, you could at best be experiencing voltage drop, or at worse setting yourself up for a nasty mod explosion.

See how the center pin (copper color) in the 510 connector of the above juice attachment is extended? This has to occur with a faux hybrid/direct battery mod. Otherwise, there will be battery current issues.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

 

[RiderVapor]

Thank you for the replies everyone, a lot of good info here. Have cleaned the whole switch, hybrid top, threads on atty, center pin on atty, etc. Feel it could be my build which is a twisted 26g, spiraled, 5/4 wrap. Going to go the KISS route and use 22g or 20g dual coil n80.

 

[93gc40]

Thank you for the replies everyone, a lot of good info here. Have cleaned the whole switch, hybrid top, threads on atty, center pin on atty, etc. Feel it could be my build which is a twisted 26g, spiraled, 5/4 wrap. Going to go the KISS route and use 22g or 20g dual coil n80.

Unless that coil has been in the atty for a LONG time. It's not the coil. It's the mod, battery, atty or wicking causing your issues.

I suggest you build at 1ohm or higher, (26 or thinner wire) at least until you learn how to maintain and use your mod. IMO If you can't build a reasonably good vape at 1ohm. You have NO business building lower than that.

I don't know about you.. But I didn't learn to drive in a F1 or Nascar race car. Why do we think it makes sense to learn to build coils at the performance limits of the batteries you are using?

 

[RiderVapor]

I am in no hurry at all when it comes to using mech mods at all and do spend a good amount of time learning as much as possible. My builds are rather solid at this point but still continue looking at better ways, refining what has been learned. The only part I have no experience with is maintaining my builds more than the Rig which is kept spotless from one end to the other. Have also learned a few more things in this post which is cool. Put in a single coil build last night after cleaning up my atty and everything was good, confirming my build was just played. Thank you all for replying, vape on.

 

[edyle]

I am in no hurry at all when it comes to using mech mods at all and do spend a good amount of time learning as much as possible. My builds are rather solid at this point but still continue looking at better ways, refining what has been learned. The only part I have no experience with is maintaining my builds more than the Rig which is kept spotless from one end to the other. Have also learned a few more things in this post which is cool. Put in a single coil build last night after cleaning up my atty and everything was good, confirming my build was just played. Thank you all for replying, vape on.

A lot of people conflate mech mods and coil building together.
They are two completely separate things.

 

[RiderVapor]

A lot of people conflate mech mods and coil building together.
They are two completely separate things.

Ok, thanks.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

You do know that unlike a regulated a mech will lose power output as you drain the battery?
Just thought i'd mention incase

 

[RiderVapor]

You do know that unlike a regulated a mech will lose power output as you drain the battery?
Just thought i'd mention incase

I am very aware of losing power as the battery drains, can tell when it gets to around 3.7 volts and time to change out, lol. Have three brand new Sony VTC4's that are just for this mech right now and need one more which should do me good. Put in a brand new build on a Sub Zero today, 6 wrap 20g and it's hitting rather nicely so everything is good. I do have a IPV3 LI which is my daily carry for when at work and it has another Sub Zero mounted on it, runny a zipper coil using 28g at the moment but is ready for something new.

 

[edyle]

I am very aware of losing power as the battery drains, can tell when it gets to around 3.7 volts and time to change out, lol. Have three brand new Sony VTC4's that are just for this mech right now and need one more which should do me good. Put in a brand new build on a Sub Zero today, 6 wrap 20g and it's hitting rather nicely so everything is good. I do have a IPV3 LI which is my daily carry for when at work and it has another Sub Zero mounted on it, runny a zipper coil using 28g at the moment but is ready for something new.

What voltage do you find yourself running your IPV3 LI at?
If you keep an eye on that voltage and aim for your build to operate well at 4 volts, then anytime something goes wrong with your ipv, you can just switch to mech without skipping a puff.

 

[RiderVapor]

Depends on the build in my atty at the time. Usually running a .2 ohm at 3.8 to 4.1 but my most recent coils have been at the . 15 ohm mark since doing parallels, staged heating set up so I am running a little lower at 3.3v at 88 watts. Mostly using 28 or 26g n80, twisted and then spiraled on a regulated device. These builds are ok on the mech but feel just going with 20/22g regular coils or even parallel 24g n80 are a better route to take for mechs and the atty being used. I only use my Rig Mod while around home during the evenings or when out running around during the weekends, kind of like treating myself so to speak. Battery life is not so important when having my ipv3 since having four sets of batteries for it always ready to go. Can get through the whole day on just one set while another is waiting to go in as back up.