Re-reading page 1, I see that Alchem13 also did 12 wraps with 28g but got 2.2ohms. What could be the reason for wide variance in ohms when the wire size and wraps are the same?
Coils, ohms, and Kanthal gauge on Protanks
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Re-reading page 1, I see that Alchem13 also did 12 wraps with 28g but got 2.2ohms. What could be the reason for wide variance in ohms when the wire size and wraps are the same?
I wrap on the same size, but I don't lift the coil for fear of shorts. How much can the coil be raised?
If I recall correctly, Rip used a 20 gauge needle to wrap his coil around (very thin). I reread Alchem's post and it didn't mentioned what he used to wrap his coil around. I can only guess it was twice as big as a 20 gauge needle causing him to use twice the amount of wire. It's only an educated guess though. Happy vaping
Cheers,
Steve
I think he might have meant 1.3ohm. 1.5ohm coils was the highest ohm I could fit into a protank head personally, but most of the time they ended up being 1.3 ohm coils. There was so much wire in there I actually started getting to tight of a draw so they never got used for long as that tight draw lead to a lot of flooding. If I am using cotton in the coil a 1.8 ohm 30ga micro coil works great on a twist, I usually run it in the 4.0-4.4v range. I have my doubts about if silica would feed the coil enough juice. I don't use silica anymore since it has a bad taste to it, at least for me.
About good 1 mm from the bottom not more. You dont want to lift it too much because of chimney/top cap which can crush the coil when sealed.
I think 28g takes too long to heat up, evods (and the smaller batteries/mods) heat up too much when vaping I have found just from my personal experience.
It's possible to get away with 28/29g (it's a little thinner than 28g at 0.3mm), but I would only use that for vertical/chimney coils with an outside cotton wick. IE when you needs the stability of the thicker wire to make sure it doesn't move too much and short out.
I'd probably use 30g for a horizontal microcoil (for cotton), and 32g for a standard spaced coil wrap (for silica)
If you torch the straight piece of kanthal before wrapping it it takes out it's 'springiness' and stays where it's put better.
So torch it first, then wrap it very careful and close (like almost overlapping them but the wire slides down by itself off the previous wrap) on a blunt syringe needle, you can normally get the wraps so close you don't have to squeeze and torch and squeeze and torch the coil so much afterwards. Lighter gauge wire is more likely to deform and bend out of shape while torching an squeezing after it's wrapped.
It's possible to get away with 28/29g (it's a little thinner than 28g at 0.3mm), but I would only use that for vertical/chimney coils with an outside cotton wick. IE when you needs the stability of the thicker wire to make sure it doesn't move too much and short out.
I'd probably use 30g for a horizontal microcoil (for cotton), and 32g for a standard spaced coil wrap (for silica)
If you torch the straight piece of kanthal before wrapping it it takes out it's 'springiness' and stays where it's put better.
So torch it first, then wrap it very careful and close (like almost overlapping them but the wire slides down by itself off the previous wrap) on a blunt syringe needle, you can normally get the wraps so close you don't have to squeeze and torch and squeeze and torch the coil so much afterwards. Lighter gauge wire is more likely to deform and bend out of shape while torching an squeezing after it's wrapped.
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Not finding any good nails that just fitted I found an awesome tool in aa Asda's q tip plastic pipe with the end cut off one end, wrapped my first microcoils and u wick coils tonite in perfect order, well pleased as I kept getting tangled on drill bits and screw threads, 32g, 1.4ohm and running spot on my Kmax now 
I just got some 28gauge Kanthol in the mail today. I had been making my microcoils with 32gauge and twisting them with a drill to double the thickness. I did 4/5 wraps with those and it always read at between 1.2 and 1.8 ohms, but I had issues with them. My batteries would drain or cut off after only a couple hours. I think I have the 1000mah Vision Spinner batteries. I measure using a multimeter. It could be that my coils were wrapped tight enough and over time they expanded and were shorting out causing their resistance to drop to a dangerous level.
Well I just wrapped my first 28ga coil. I think I wound 8 wraps. The pinching and torch burning is absolutely mandatory. It makes all the difference. I could probably wrap 15 turns with 28ga and still fit it in a kanger microcoil body. My $10 meter is reading the resistance at 1.6ohms, but I don't really trust my $10 multimeter. I suspect it lacks the necessary percision to measure 10ths of an ohm accurately. I will buy a dedicated coil tester made for such things soon. Doesn't make much sense to do ur own coils if you end up frying your batteries. Quite honestly I think it is enough to just learn how hot a coil should get and know when your e cig body is getting too hot. That would tell you that your coil's resistance is too low. Not the safest way, but it's at least a good thing to pay attention to in case of a short as an indicator.
I use a large soeing needle that I think is around 1.5mm (1/16 inch). Does the job. Looks roughly the same diameter as the coils that came from the manufacturer.
So, I'm trying to rebuild the coils on my PT's and have a tech question hopefully you guys can answer for me. 28ga, 30ga, or 32ga....which one gives more resistance/higher ohms?Do more wraps or less wraps equal more or less ohms? Right now, I'm using my PT's on an ego ctwist. Should I do micro coils if I'm using the ego, or should I wait until I get something with more power? I know somewhat of a trial and error thing, but I'm runnin' out of Kanthal. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
30 gauge is for me single coil cotton Nano style. 8.5 watts
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