Couple modding questions...

[jiff]

Well, I got all my parts in the mail today... that being said, I have a couple quick questions. I'm sure people here are getting sick of me.

1) What is the easiest way to gut a battery box? I'm using 2x C battery box from madvapes, and I need to gut part of it out to fit an 18650 in it. Plus gotta get a lot of that plastic out to make room for everything else. What is the easiest way to do this?

2) This battery box has a master switch, with a negative wire already connected to it, but no positive wire. I assume I have to attach a positive wire to it (linked to the positive terminal) then another wire from the master switch to the vape switch. Is that how it is suppose to be hooked up? With this set up, I assume a negative wire still runs from the atomizer to the negative terminal of the battery, as well as the ground wire from the LED.

Help would be much appreciated.

 

[tdstrike]

Well, I got all my parts in the mail today... that being said, I have a couple quick questions. I'm sure people here are getting sick of me.

1) What is the easiest way to gut a battery box? I'm using 2x C battery box from madvapes, and I need to gut part of it out to fit an 18650 in it. Plus gotta get a lot of that plastic out to make room for everything else. What is the easiest way to do this?

2) This battery box has a master switch, with a negative wire already connected to it, but no positive wire. I assume I have to attach a positive wire to it (linked to the positive terminal) then another wire from the master switch to the vape switch. Is that how it is suppose to be hooked up? With this set up, I assume a negative wire still runs from the atomizer to the negative terminal of the battery, as well as the ground wire from the LED.

Help would be much appreciated.

1. Dremel
2. the master switch breaks the circuit from the ground thus disabling power (at least on most boxes), shouldn't need a positive. Attach positive wire from pos battery connector to one leg of momentary button, attach wire from other leg of momentary button to center pos. of atty connector. Attach wire from neg. battery connector to outside housing of atty connector. Test for continuity and voltage, vape away.

 

[candre23]

1. The best way to do it is with a dremel and a cutoff or grinding wheel. If you don't have that, you can use whatever you do have lying around. The plastic in these boxes is pretty thin and soft, so you could even just take a pair of needle nose pliers and bend the bits you don't want until they snap off. There's a bit more risk of breaking something you want to keep, but there is some risk with any method. Just be careful.

2. Yes. You can switch the positive or the negative, whichever is easier. All that really matters is that when the button is pressed and the circuit is complete, current can flow from the positive of the battery to the positive of the atty connector, and from the negative of the battery to the negative of the atty connector. Since you're using an LED, it might be easier to switch the positive wire, if only because that would give you the button terminals to solder the LED to.

 

[jiff]

1. Dremel
2. the master switch breaks the circuit from the ground thus disabling power (at least on most boxes), shouldn't need a positive. Attach positive wire from pos battery connector to one leg of momentary button, attach wire from other leg of momentary button to center pos. of atty connector. Attach wire from neg. battery connector to outside housing of atty connector. Test for continuity and voltage, vape away.

Thanks that helps. I wasn't sure if I needed to do anything to the master switch. Good to know I can just keep it as is.

 

[Huffheinz]

1. When removing plastic from the box, I like to snip out what I can with wire cutters first, then wiggle loose and pull out the chunks with needle nose. Then it's time to clean up with the file and dremel.

2. (What td and candre said)

 

[nicotime]

Dremel also sells a nice little carbide cutter that looks like a saw blade great for modding. Its .375" in diameter by .050" thick, but what I like the most about it is that its flat on the face of it for cutting stuff flush. The little flap wheel sander work great too. Just remember to run the tools at a low speed to keep from melting the plastic and prevent the toxic fumes from doing so.

Note: I have not ordered from this place...just found it for the pics. I found the bits at Lowes.

High Speed Cutter, *Dremel® Type - Wheel, 3/8 dia. #46-20199 - 46-20199 - Dremel Type Cutters |

Flap Wheel 3/8 x 120 grit #11-12003 - 11-12003 - Mounted Abrasive Flap Wheels | Dremel Type |

 

[four2109]

I use a torch to heat knives to cut. I also bought one of madvapes cheap soldering irons and fashioned a blade for it. Works good and is still a soldering iron if mine dies.
Just do what works.