Crap chargers that come in LT kits..

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Tiesel

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I have used this thing maybe 20 times and its shot already. What a crap design, there is nothing supporting the +/- terminals and anytime you put in a battery all the tension comes from the solder points on the green board. At least I have a backup 510 kit but I'm unable to use my LT.
Has anyone used this Ultrafire charger or these batteries in their LT? I'm about to order this since $13 and free shipping is a great deal, any input would be greatly appreciated! Ultrafire Charger and 2 Trustfire 18650 Batteries Ebay.

photo.jpgphoto1.jpg
 
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ChrispyCritter

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It is a low cost design..but I haven't had any issues with mine in a month and a half. Sounds like you got a bad one maybe. I really should get a backup in case it fails..but I can fix it if it did most likely. Unless you want slower charging just be sure to get at least a 800mA charger..you probably could use up to about a 1200-1500mA fast charger..I wouldn't go over 1200mA though and that would charge a dead 1500mAh battery in a bit over an hour...
 

Tiesel

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It is a low cost design..but I haven't had any issues with mine in a month and a half. Sounds like you got a bad one maybe. I really should get a backup in case it fails..but I can fix it if it did most likely. Unless you want slower charging just be sure to get at least a 800mA charger..you probably could use up to about a 1200-1500mA fast charger..I wouldn't go over 1200mA though and that would charge a dead 1500mAh battery in a bit over an hour...

How would you fix this? I'm not sure if you can see but the solder didn't break it actually ripped the green coating off the board along with the tracks and the entire weld..
So this Ultrafire WF139 calls itself a "rapid charger" with a 4.2v 450mah output? Sigh... The similar Trustfire version of this charger the TR001 is still only 500mah and costs $30+ with 2 TF Flame batteries. Money is a bit tight right now.
I guess I could deal with a 4+hour charge if I had 4 batteries in rotation. Also I like this charger because it has 2 charging circuits so I can charge 1 at a time or 2 from different starting voltages. What do you think man? Thanks for your help again I appreciate it!
 
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sailorman

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You can get the Trustfire TR-001 without batteries all over the web for $10-$15. That's the one I've been using for about 8 years straight now, with all sizes of lithium, ever day.

You can't use Flame batteries in the LT anyway, so unless you have something to use them for, that would be a waste.
The one on the ebay ad has UNPROTECTED junk batteries. Big Fail.

I can tell you from experience that the TR--001 is plenty fast enough to keep up with heavy vaping on a 1600mah battery. I never let my battery fall below 3.8V and the replacement is always charged in plenty of time before the one I'm vaping goes down to 3.8V. It also has independent charging channels. I routinely charge a 14500 and an 18650 at the same time.

If you look around, you can find a tried and true TR-001 for less than $20 shipped. I've got an idea where. Lemme take a look.

Here you go: TR-001. $11.99 plus $1.99 shipping.

http://www.ecigcharleston.com/TrustFire-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Charger-p/trustfire-charger.htm
 
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Tiesel

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You can get the Trustfire TR-001 without batteries all over the web for $10-$15. That's the one I've been using for about 8 years straight now, with all sizes of lithium, ever day.

You can't use Flame batteries in the LT anyway, so unless you have something to use them for, that would be a waste.
The one on the ebay ad has UNPROTECTED junk batteries. Big Fail.

I can tell you from experience that the TR--001 is plenty fast enough to keep up with heavy vaping on a 1600mah battery. I never let my battery fall below 3.8V and the replacement is always charged in plenty of time before the one I'm vaping goes down to 3.8V. It also has independent charging channels. I routinely charge a 14500 and an 18650 at the same time.

If you look around, you can find a tried and true TR-001 for less than $20 shipped. I've got an idea where. Lemme take a look.

Here you go: TR-001. $11.99 plus $1.99 shipping.

TrustFire Lithium Ion Battery Charger Has two independent charging channels. Li-Ion batteries with a separate. LED for status for each channel. Red = Charging, Green = Charged

Thanks for the reply, why are the ultrafire 2400mah batteries junk? I need unprotected batteries for my Lavatube.
 

sailorman

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They're unprotected but they're not a safe chemistry batter, IOW, not an IMR battery.
If you want the best batteries for the LT, you can get the Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries for $10 shipped at orbtronic.com
Or, you could get them for $7.99 at Smartvapes.com. If they also have a decent charger, you could save on shipping.

Don't use unprotected lithium ions in any high draw device like an e-cig. You're asking for disaster. Not only are Ultrafires not protected lithiums, they aren't even high drain. Disaster waiting to happen.

I have lots of Ultrafires that I use in flashlights. They're not even very good for those. The flame batt's are better, but I don't use them anymore either, especially not in a PV.
 

Tiesel

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Ok well since they are unsafe I just wont order them. It was a good price so I figured I would get 2 more batteries. I have just been using the unidentified batteries that came with the LT. I really wasn't looking to drop another $20 on a pair of 18650s right now.. Would you prefer the Panasonics over the AW IMR? Are the Panasonics the safer chem. batteries as well?
photo2.jpg
 

Tiesel

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BTW, do you not already have 2 batteries for your LT? If so, how can you outvape your charger. I'm a chain-vaper and I can't drain one battery anywhere near as fast as the little TR-001 can charge the other one.

I cant out vape my charger, well now I can since its broken...
 

ChrispyCritter

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How would you fix this? I'm not sure if you can see but the solder didn't break it actually ripped the green coating off the board along with the tracks and the entire weld..
So this Ultrafire WF139 calls itself a "rapid charger" with a 4.2v 450mah output? Sigh... The similar Trustfire version of this charger the TR001 is still only 500mah and costs $30+ with 2 TF Flame batteries. Money is a bit tight right now.
I guess I could deal with a 4+hour charge if I had 4 batteries in rotation. Also I like this charger because it has 2 charging circuits so I can charge 1 at a time or 2 from different starting voltages. What do you think man? Thanks for your help again I appreciate it!

I have to see it up close but you could " scrape off" a spot where you could solder it..but if you don't know for sure which one it connects to I would just suggest not trying. I can't tell from the picture if other circuits are damaged either..if you can tell you can solder it most likely. I also can't tell if the board is cracked. If you try to solder it yourself be sure when you 1st plug it in to use a power strip and do it on a surface it couldn't damage in case.

If it turns on test to be sure it's at the right voltage before putting in a battery it should be around 4.19v. The board looks like it isn't too small so checking from broken circuits shouldn't be hard by just looking..even with broken circuits you can use a wire to fix them by soldering it to either side of the break or solder just the broken part sometimes..but if you did that make sure any soldered repair doesn't contact any other circuit or wire.
 

Tiesel

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I have to see it up close but you could " scrape off" a spot where you could solder it..but if you don't know for sure which one it connects to I would just suggest not trying. I can't tell from the picture if other circuits are damaged either..if you can tell you can solder it most likely. I also can't tell if the board is cracked. If you try to solder it yourself be sure when you 1st plug it in to use a power strip and do it on a surface it couldn't damage in case.

If it turns on test to be sure it's at the right voltage before putting in a battery it should be around 4.19v. The board looks like it isn't too small so checking from broken circuits shouldn't be hard by just looking..even with broken circuits you can use a wire to fix them by soldering it to either side of the break or solder just the broken part sometimes..but if you did that make sure any soldered repair doesn't contact any other circuit or wire.

I'm not going to even bother, I'm sure I may be able to repair it but there is still no way to re-enforce the terminals so it would break again after a few charges. Its really just a bad design. I enjoy my mod so its just time to step up and grab a tried and true charger.
 

ChrispyCritter

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Ok well since they are unsafe I just wont order them. It was a good price so I figured I would get 2 more batteries. I have just been using the unidentified batteries that came with the LT. I really wasn't looking to drop another $20 on a pair of 18650s right now.. Would you prefer the Panasonics over the AW IMR? Are the Panasonics the safer chem. batteries as well?
View attachment 95662

Those red unnamed batteries that come in the kits are most likely Sanyo ur18650w with a 15a continuous discharge rating limit (maybe a 20a limit) and a (min) 1500-1600mAh (typical). After researching them I feel pretty safe with them :)
 

ChrispyCritter

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I'm not going to even bother, I'm sure I may be able to repair it but there is still no way to re-enforce the terminals so it would break again after a few charges. Its really just a bad design. I enjoy my mod so its just time to step up and grab a tried and true charger.

Yeah I would probably only repair mine in a pinch if I really needed it then order a new one..I would keep it around for parts myself or as a backup.
 

sailorman

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Yeah, there's nothing wrong with the batteries that came with the LT. I've been using them right along with no problem at all. If I had to replace them, I definitely would buy the Panasonics over the AW. There has been testing and videos done showing how much better they are in every respect. Plus they're cheaper. They are also a safe(r) chemistry, although not technically an IMR. They have a proprietary formulation that Panasonic came up with and don't heat up as much under a short as the AW's do. They're safer, IMO, than AW IMRs.

There's a thread right here in this forum about them with links to charts, videos, etc. It should be right on the first page. It's titled something like "New Japanese Panasonic batteries, an AW slayer?". Lot's of info about them in it.
 

unloaded

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I have another problem with the included chargers. I take mine to work with me every night so I can swap/charge batts. When I unplug it with a batt in it, the batt powers the LED on the charger. It glows green the whole time. Must be an old school LED too because they can't be very efficient. I've went 4-5 hours later to swap batts and found I forgot to plug in charger. The batt was full charge when I left the house but green LED glowing the whole time. Took almost an hour to top off the battery! Much more of a drain then I'd expect from an LED. Another time one of my boys turned off the power strip I had the charger plugged into. Seeing the green LED lit up I thought it was all good. When I swapped batts I found that wasn't so.
Just a minor gripe but I haven't seen this happen on any of my other chargers.
 

kwalka

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if you can afford a little more, Xtar WP2 would be a better choice.

charges @ (selectable) 0.5 and 1A, for faster charging time for higher capacity batteries.

you can even use it to charge your cell phone in a pinch. (with one charged battery in left bank)

around $20...

I have this charger. It replaced the TR-001, and it blows it away! I love it.
 

DaveP

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I use the TR-001 for my AW 18650 IMR batteries that power my Provari and for a couple of 14500 batteries that run my vv box mod. It's not a fancy charger but it does a good job. One day, I'll buy a smarter charger from Pila, but I like the TR-001. For the price, the TR-001 is a good deal.

The board mounted terminal isn't a bad idea, but it should have been reinforced by a right angle contact secured by a bolt and washer. You still might be able to drill it and install a bolt and washer with a locknut if there's enough real estate on the board to support it. Using the pad on the board to support the terminal without reinforcement was a poor way for the manufacturer to cut costs, IMO.
 
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