Creating a new Mechanical Mod

[Spud87]

Hey guys,

I've been studying mechanical mods for a while, and since I have good access to a machine shop and a CNC, I want to create one. Not just make a clone of something on the market. Possibly even do custom ones for friends, or my local shop at some point. Nothing large scale, so this is mainly for me. My dilemma is this:

I can design the tubes, top connector for the standard 510, etc. But I want a magnet switch. From the ones I've seen, I understand the concept. Two repelling magnets keep the switch from making contact with the negative end of your chosen battery, therefore not firing. I have broke them apart, taken a glance at a couple of friends' very high dollar versions, but I still don't know exactly how to machine it as far as measurements and making it stable enough to hand out to friends to test safely. I dont want to endanger them with a rough prototype whatsoever while I work out the kinks. I can source the magnets and spacers pretty easily. If anyone has a tech drawing, solidworks file cutaway, mastercam file, autocad file, or just a picture of one broke apart and some rough millimeter measurements. Anything of the sort to give me a direction to go in, that'd be great. I am also going to do a standard spring and lock switch as well, but I want a magnet on my final product. The press-spring switch is a very easy design to mimic/change, but I want this thing to fire like a hot knife through butter and magnets (HOW DO THEY WORK? SCIENCE) seem to be the way to go.

Thanks for your time and I hope you can point me in the right direction.

 

[asdaq]

Use ring magnets and allow more girth in the device than you would for a spring. If you want to try something really cool don't have just a single post for the switch but three for a tripod of connective stability. The button would look like a pizza box stabilizer if you know what I mean.

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[Spud87]

Love the three stabilizer idea. Seems like it would also improve balance. I would just have to position the posts correctly that an off center button press wouldnt effect the smoothness of the overall press with undue friction. Will be interesting to see it in practice. Now, the ring magnets, if I use a slightly beefier, girthy, button, and cut it to a magnet that's already on the market for another mod, would it make the button press any stiffer? I have used magnet button mods before, but as I said, I havent been able to really delve into one enough to know exactly how to manufacture it, as all I have are spring based at the moment.

Now, the next question I need to ask, is what would be the optimum ring magnets to use? A friend has said he loves his Nemesis, but also likes his AmeraVape Manhattan. I'm also asking my other vaping buddies to go through their mods and write pros and cons to hopefully come up with a design we can all use, or I can do light customization to fit their likes/personalities.

The magnets I'm all looking at are replacements for pre-existing mods, to avoid trying to machine or cut to size, just for time sake.

Thanks for your reply, and the awesome idea. I've been reading a lot of this forum and I truly admire your work, Asdaq. I've learned a lot from reading your previous posts actually.

 

[asdaq]

Hey thanks. I would suggest ebay or K&J magnetics as another source. You can adjust the resistance by having more magnet, like doubling up or by adjusting the distance between them. If it is a bottom fire mod you probably want to be able to set the mod down without it firing so a stiffer throw is in order, but if it is a side button it can be much lighter. Two N42 1/2 x 1/4 x 1/16 quite close to each other would hold up a mod ~200 grams no problem. Since a CNC can pretty much do anything quite precisely, you could have the three pins spaced just right to trap two of said magnets in a minimal 'cage' that keeps them from flipping. There could be a threaded ring on the outside for the lock mechanism and maybe the three pins have screws so you can change the distance of the throw. I know this really could use a drawing, but that would be a lot of drawing.

 

[Spud87]

So, lets say I did these three pins, drilled three holes in each magnet, and attached the pins to the bottom button, trapping the magnets cage style. To change the magnets throw/actuation strength, youd just have to purchase new magnets and drill them to fit the posts. To change the throw length, you could theoretically change the length of the posts themselves, although at a certain point it would begin to look strange if they protruded from the bottom, and it would cause smoothness problems. I imagine the button as a flat disc of engraved marine grade brass with three shallow, fine threaded holes in top for the posts. Threaded on bottom, notched on top brass posts (to avoid wear by marrying two different materials). Im iffy about leaving it completely adjustable and having any extra length on the posts' bottoms because I want to keep conductivity high by keeping it as solid as possible, meaning full contact even all through the button. I want to keep it a short actuation travel for the button and possibly recess it into the tube and come up with a locking mechanism that wont ruin the outside look, and has a short travel of a minimum of 90 degrees and a max of 180 degrees rotation if I do a locking ring design. Ill just have to play with threading there.

The more I think about it, the more attractive a 4 post design would be. It would give a solid feel to the switch, and reduce any rock and sway in the button itself. Teflon coated posts (you can buy teflon gun coat spray) would hopefully reduce any friction caused by button press, but the short travel distance itself would help that.

Actually, since the button itself is repelled by magnets, I imagine another design that isnt a lock so much as maybe an ease of use recessed button. Imagine a Nemesis style recessed bottom button, but you twist the bottom, and the button itself moves through the bottom. Hm. Strange. Almost like a tube of lipstick design. I may make a prototype of that as well, just to see the practicality.

The more moving parts I add, the more can go wrong though. Or the more tinkering required, which Im fine with. All in the name of learning! Theres definitely room for improvement in traditional mechmod design. I just wish my CAD/Mastercam skills were still in top shape to draw all this quickly.

 

[asdaq]

Ah, I didn't say that you want to get off the shelf ring magnets. They are fairly fragile and heat kills them. I've seen that someone drilled a disc magnet once but three holes would be near impossible. And the cage would be the minimum of 3 posts that surround the OD of the magnet. 4 posts could work too, and makes me think of a center post with three at 120 degrees on the outside.

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[bzmotoninja83]

Regular center post for the switch but, multiple poles or.posts around the perimeter to create the pizza table

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[Spud87]

Quick update guys, went to my brother-in-law's (owns the shop) and he's down to make a spring fire style as a prototype to test with as just a practice run sometime in the next week. He's the Mastercam genius, I can just techdraw, guide, and do some rough machining at most. Im working on the switch design still, and I'm going to buy the desired, sturdy magnets, and design AROUND them.

And yeah, I realized later on I couldn't drill magnets later because they would definitely shatter. I wasn't thinking. I'm working out the kinks on the magnet design to make it functioning and adjustable. Also, I was told working with marine grade brass would be no problem at all, AND I can do fancy engraving as well on the machine, so $*&t is about to get real up in hurr.

2 or 3 generations of this thing and I will be walking around town with a megasuperuberawesome mod. And I will probably have him make me a couple custom engraved ones of the same model once we get it down.

Shops in the area have expressed interest in buying some even! But I wouldn't sell them unless its an exceptional product and the profit margin is right.

Any more suggestions, throw em out forum members! So far, its all good, and all suggestions are welcome.

Also, Quick question, as I dont have any laying around to measure, roughly how long is the inside of a mech mod tube thats NON-telescoping from bottom of tube to the 510 connector? I don't want to have to re-machine a tube because I basically ballparked too large, and the spring isn't sprung enough. I know the length of the batteries, but I don't know how much play to give with the solid tube design. I have a heavily, close filleted, chamfer'd design for the top in mind as a heat diffuser sort of mechanism, kind of like what you see in heatsinks. If done subtly and right, it could also be a cool design feature physically. I dont want it to be able to snag anything though, which is why i have it with very little space between.

 

[bzmotoninja83]

I'd say depending on battery, around 67-68mm depending on if.it's got an adjustable pin or spring for the battery.

Suggestions, let bzmotoninja83 sample and review a device. I will be your internet friend for ever

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[Spud87]

Ninja, Im not opposed to the idea of having the modders who helped me refine the design test them as well. It will be rough going at first, so you may have to wait till the later prototypes. 3rd generation or so, so not long. Im going to give them to my friends at first for initial testing and direct feedback, then I wouldnt mind sending a few around to those who helped me on here, like you and Asdaq. Those who helped with input.

 

[Spud87]

Emulating almost a manhattan/nemesis replacement style switch for design ease until I work out the pizza table kinks.. We start today on getting some of it machined I believe. Tube is spec'd, and so is the top cap!

 

[Izan]

Be Safe
I

 

[bzmotoninja83]

After careful thought and whatnot, I don't see the pizza table being a feesable design unless the legs are closer to the outer edges. Almost as if it would be better suited for a larger 26650 device

 

[vapero]

check out the 4nine switch design, I think it is the easiest and really unique

 

[DocHo11idaze]

So what name should we be looking out for in the near future on the forums for the newest mech mod release? Hehe good luck sir

 

[Doghead]

check out the 4nine switch design, I think it is the easiest and really unique

Which design is this?


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[vapero]

the main tube has la little lip on the inside that holds the switch in place, no need for threads there.. it is the most simplest and elegant solution that I've seen on a mod