Debating getting my first mechanical mod

[roscomac83]

I've been vaping for a few months. I've got a couple of Aspire CF batteries and a Vaporshark rdna 40. I'm interested in a mech mod, but don't know if I want to get into RDAs/RBAs. Can anyone give me some info on how the sub ohm tanks like the Atlantis or the new eleaf Melo would perform on a mech?

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

See no real benefit to gettting a mech if you have a DNA40.

You don't need a mech specifically to 'rebuild', your DNA 40 will handle most all types RDAS/RTAS/Sub-clearos and builds either kanthal or nickel (for temp protection, ideal).

 

[Susan~S]

+1 on the above post.

With a mech mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to change your stock coil (or build a new coil). With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

 

[Bw86]

^^ I agree. Other than financial reasons, I have no clue why someone would use a mech anymore considering all the great VV/VW devices. You have a Vaporshark!

 

[roscomac83]

Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm more or less looking to see how I would like a mech in the event I decide to rebuild. I also like the ease of carry of the tube for work and what not. But, obviously an Aspire CF won't run a sub ohm tank.

 

[k2zs]

I myself prefer mechanical mods, small ones. I own 2 regulated mods; an authentic ZNA30 and an SXmini, and they go pretty much unused. To me, they are too large and awkward to carry around all day.

For my daily carry devices I use an Ant mod from Holyland Mods and a Zen DX-350. Both are 18350 mods and with a 1.2 - 1.4 ohm coil in a Kayfun RBA they provide me all I need to stay off those nasty cigarettes. They are small and pocket friendly. My Ant mod with a Kayfun Nano is only 3 inches small.

For me, regulated mods are just too big for daily use, but that's just me...

 

[Hitmetwice]

One must also be very aware of what they're screwing on top of a mech along with the attributes
of the battery that happens to be in it at the time. Mistakes can and do happen with a mech, with more drastic results than happen with protected devices. Don't ask me how I know. But they do look nice and perform well. I use mine at home when I have the time to take special care of how I'm using it.

Read up on battery safety and get a firm understanding of ohm's law...then have at it!!! Cheers.

edit....the atlantis works great on my mech, 4.2 volt battery fresh off the charger with the 0.5 ohm coil pushes 35 watts and draws around 9 amps from the high drain batteries I use.

 

[edyle]

I've been vaping for a few months. I've got a couple of Aspire CF batteries and a Vaporshark rdna 40. I'm interested in a mech mod, but don't know if I want to get into RDAs/RBAs. Can anyone give me some info on how the sub ohm tanks like the Atlantis or the new eleaf Melo would perform on a mech?

If the rdan 40 has a vv mode where you can set the voltage, set the voltage to 3.7 volts.
That way you are basically making it behave like a mech mod and you will see yourself how it perform.

Once you decide to try rebuilding, you can build it on the rdna until you make a coil that performs satisfactorily on the rdna, then you can put it on the mech.

 

[Dougxfresh]

It really depend what you will be doing with it, mech can be a fashion statement also. When you start pulling deep wattage draw 50+ and using a dual coil sub ohm rda build is where mechs really come into play. You honstly have to just start playing with numbers and figuring out how much watts you will need and then the other things like styles etc. A box mod will do what a mech does but fashion wise..

 

[roscomac83]

What mech are you using with your Atlantis?

 

[CoilinTrouble]

Whether a mech is appropriate for your use really depends on if youre going to make the jump to rebuilding your own rda/rba or if you intend to stick with something like an atlantis. Theres a number of factors to consider.

1-Tanks or rda/rba-With something like the rdna 40 you can pretty much handle most anything stock on the market. Additionally if you did make the jump into rda/rba territory the rdna 40 could still handle most everything you'd build. Its pretty advisable to stick with what you have even if you bump up into making coils.
2-Level of Experience-Are you familiar with Ohm's Law, the Amp limits of your batteries, and battery safety (i.e. ICR vs IMR batteries)? If you say no to any of those questions then youre not ready for a mech mod yet. Definitely make sure you have an Ohm reader as well as something like the Ohms Law calculator app.
3-Coil Builds-If you are experienced enough to continue, do you intend to go into deep sub ohm vaping? If you have no intentions of zipping into deep sub ohm vaping, such as 0.5 or less, then mechs might be an acceptable option for you as alot of regulated mods cant handle those low ohm builds. However theres still potential options. Then it depends on...
4-Budget-If youre going into deep sub ohm vaping what kind of budget are you working with? If all you have is 30 to 50 bucks then a cheap mech clone can be a great way to experience sub ohm vaping (Manhattan and Stingray clones are cheap and effective). However if you're looking at spending 75 or more theres plenty of regulated mods 50watts and higher that can handle those builds without near as high of a risk factor. I personally feel its pretty dumb to spend 150$+ on a mech if you can get a fantastic regulated box mod that can handle those builds for cheap.

So theres some food for thought. My recommendation personally is if you do intend to get into sub ohm vaping I'd recommend the Sigelei 150 watt box mod. Ive got an IPV3, Sigelei 150, God Mod, and a few other 100watt+ mods and the Sigelei is very cost effective, efficient, safe, durable(free silicone case included), and its easy to use. Im currently puffing on the Sigelei 150 with a Plume Veil 1.5 rda with dual Zipper Coils at 0.19Ω at about 90-105 watts. Amazing clouds and flavor.

 

[Hitmetwice]

What mech are you using with your Atlantis?

I'm using a stingray clone(hcigar), just got it. Was using an old KTS+ with a side fire button. The button kept heating up on occasion and often would not vape consistently. It wasn't too bad with 2.0ohm stuff but was not satisfactory with sub ohm coils, it would get very hot. Probably a lot of extra voltage drop, not good. After wiping the threads and contacts down with rubbing alcohol, to clean the oils off better, it (stingray) vapes just fine thank-you.
Cheers.

 

[SteveDouglas]

the sky is the limit with mech mod stylings, personally I love the look (and low voltage drop) of something like a copper Cartel or Vanilla or Colonial, but I still love my first brass stingray for me a lot of whether a mech mod is good is how smooth (and safe) the firing pin is...

 

[tj99959]

Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm more or less looking to see how I would like a mech in the event I decide to rebuild. I also like the ease of carry of the tube for work and what not. But, obviously an Aspire CF won't run a sub ohm tank.

I started using a mechanical long before RBAs or sub ohm even existed, and my logic for that choice was pretty simple.

#1: if you can't use your backup PV for a hammer and still vape it, it isn't a reliable backup!

#2: when I started vaping, the FDA was involved in a law suit, customs was seizing shipments, and the end of vaping was looming over our heads. So I figured I had better get stuff that would still work even if Hell froze over, and that led me to mechanicals, RBAs, and DIY.

This little guy fell out of my duck blind and spent a week in the mud at the bottom of Ogden Bay (my dog found it for me). I've been using it this morning ..... 4 years later.
Try doing that with a DNA mod.

 

[rhean]

I started using a mechanical long before RBAs or sub ohm even existed, and my logic for that choice was pretty simple.

#1: if you can't use your backup PV for a hammer and still vape it, it isn't a reliable backup!

#2: when I started vaping, the FDA was involved in a law suit, customs was seizing shipments, and the end of vaping was looming over our heads. So I figured I had better get stuff that would still work even if Hell froze over, and that led me to mechanicals, RBAs, and DIY.

This little guy fell out of my duck blind and spent a week in the mud at the bottom of Ogden Bay (my dog found it for me). I've been using it this morning ..... 4 years later.
Try doing that with a DNA mod.

lol I think that's why I've been sticking with the mechs. I got my kid's 19-year-old friend to stop smoking by buying him an mvp. He broke that, then he got himself another mvp, broke that, got himself an istick. Broke that, got another istick, which is, atm, still intact.

Granted I wouldn't break things to the extent that he does, and other box mods might last forever, idk. There's something extremely appealing about having something that I can fix, if I needed to. There's also the looks of the thing--I like metal, and I like tubes, though the isticks are adorable.

 

[CoilinTrouble]

Lol I guess that brimgs up the last point in deciding if you should get a mechanical or not...user preference I take extremely good care of anything I buy and never break it. But...if you stand a higher chance of dropping it in the mud for a couple of years then mechanicals might be best everyone got an opinion afterall, I just like being able to get massive clouds with deep sub ohm valimg and high wattage regulated devices.

 

[retic1959]

If the rdan 40 has a vv mode where you can set the voltage, set the voltage to 3.7 volts. That way you are basically making it behave like a mech mod and you will see yourself how it perform. Once you decide to try rebuilding, you can build it on the rdna until you make a coil that performs satisfactorily on the rdna, then you can put it on the mech.

3.7 volts is when I charge my batteries , 4.1 - 4.2 volts on a fresh charge , not 3.7 , that could be a serious mistake to make for someone calculating their amp draw on a low subohm build . I prefer the aesthetics and feel of a mech in my hands , not to mention no electronics to fail on you .

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

I started using a mechanical long before RBAs or sub ohm even existed, and my logic for that choice was pretty simple.

#1: if you can't use your backup PV for a hammer and still vape it, it isn't a reliable backup!

#2: when I started vaping, the FDA was involved in a law suit, customs was seizing shipments, and the end of vaping was looming over our heads. So I figured I had better get stuff that would still work even if Hell froze over, and that led me to mechanicals, RBAs, and DIY.

This little guy fell out of my duck blind and spent a week in the mud at the bottom of Ogden Bay (my dog found it for me). I've been using it this morning ..... 4 years later.
Try doing that with a DNA mod.

This actually brings up an interesting point.

Evolv supposedly puts a coating on their boards to help protect them from water/liquid.

Wonder what would happen if you dipped a DNA40 board in water (DO NOT FIRE IT/TURN IT ON) then let it dry?

I honestly think it may still work, though not sure what it would do to the screen/buttons etc.

Someone feel free to test that with their DNA40(s), i wont be using mine...