DIY mechanical switch
- Thread starter kosliev
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Hey kos, long time no see. What have you got in mind for a top switch, on top of a box or on the side of a tube?
The way you have it drawn it will go boom, its a direct short.
Fixed it for ya
Its doable but your drawing is so bad I advise ya to watch a few more vids and read up on how to mechanical mod first.
Fixed it for ya
Its doable but your drawing is so bad I advise ya to watch a few more vids and read up on how to mechanical mod first.
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Away from your mouth, but have some vent holes in the bottom too.
Lets assume the tube is not metal, and does not conduct electricity.
The blue wire should go to the negative end of the 510 connector not the switch. You want to switch the positive or the negative, not the two together. That would be a short.
So, your red wire from the battery would go to the switch where you have the blue wire running and the other contact would continue the red wire to the other section of the 510.
I'm guessing you have your reasons for the choice in materials, are you going for extra MacGyver points?
Lets assume the tube is not metal, and does not conduct electricity.
The blue wire should go to the negative end of the 510 connector not the switch. You want to switch the positive or the negative, not the two together. That would be a short.
So, your red wire from the battery would go to the switch where you have the blue wire running and the other contact would continue the red wire to the other section of the 510.
I'm guessing you have your reasons for the choice in materials, are you going for extra MacGyver points?
Ops, drew it minutes before going out, yeah that was a short, but just imagine there was no short 
I'm gonna drill some holes in the bottom cap but having it "pop" off is the main "safety" feature, since cells deform a great deal and blow out from the + pole thats the best course to take
choice of materials.. I've seen the plumbing gear at the depo and its just way too big, thick and heavy, literal pipebomb.
I have a friend that can fetch me 20mm inox tubing, that chrome look is just perfect with the smok caterpillar I plan to pair this with, extra mcgyver points are bonus
its all fine and dandy so far... but the wooden clamp.. thats why I'm trying to come up with a better mechanical switch, but I'm not that good at coming up with clever,easy to build stuff
I'm gonna drill some holes in the bottom cap but having it "pop" off is the main "safety" feature, since cells deform a great deal and blow out from the + pole thats the best course to take
choice of materials.. I've seen the plumbing gear at the depo and its just way too big, thick and heavy, literal pipebomb.
I have a friend that can fetch me 20mm inox tubing, that chrome look is just perfect with the smok caterpillar I plan to pair this with, extra mcgyver points are bonus
its all fine and dandy so far... but the wooden clamp..
thats why I'm trying to come up with a better mechanical switch, but I'm not that good at coming up with clever,easy to build stuffThe more I think about it, the more trying to find a way to make a "top cap connector" worries me
I have two 510>ego adapters I could use (i need to make 2 of these mods), solder them to washers, and then press fit the washers in the tube, and then solder that too? ehhh
I dont have a fixed driller to drill the washers with
I have two 510>ego adapters I could use (i need to make 2 of these mods), solder them to washers, and then press fit the washers in the tube, and then solder that too? ehhh
I dont have a fixed driller to drill the washers with
A bolt on connector would help. You can cut a section of the threading from an old 510 to be the nut for the ego adapter.
Yeah, I actually do have a 810->510 adapter or the .... of a 401 atty to use as the nut on the other side, but the problem is if I do that, the connector wont be flush with the topcap, so once I screw something on top it'll look ridiculous, and even if I try to cover it up with a piece of inox tubing, it just add needless lenght to the mod, the way it looks on the bottom one is ideal but I wonder if it'll be sturdy enough (granted with the atty on top, since its as big as the tube, there is no wiggle, so it should be fine)
Ok I think I can do the bottom build fairly easily
now I'm trying to come up with an alternative for the clamp as the mechanical switch again, I was thinking of using that clip on top of pens or on their caps, file it so it becomes a really sleek touch switch that is easy to secure (cover with an elastic band the contact, done), but I'm lost as to how to secure it to an inox tube, I'm sure solder wont grip there, and I'm not a fan of glues
thoughts?
now I'm trying to come up with an alternative for the clamp as the mechanical switch again, I was thinking of using that clip on top of pens or on their caps, file it so it becomes a really sleek touch switch that is easy to secure (cover with an elastic band the contact, done), but I'm lost as to how to secure it to an inox tube, I'm sure solder wont grip there, and I'm not a fan of glues
thoughts?
Why dont you build a switch similar to the 69 mod... for the actual button itself use a ball bearing .
figured a way to make a bottom mechanical switch with the same safety feature (tightened nut), commercial BB's have.
heres a drawing, tomorrow i'll get the parts to build it, though maybe theres an easier (Cleaner) way to do it, maybe with the bolts that screw inside bolts? i dont know im not knowledgeable with hardware stuff
anyhow, heres the way it'll pan out, the cap is still gonna be plastic with venting holes, softly in place, i want it to really blow out easily if the battery goes in runaway, the mods with a screwn on cap are just not safe.
heres a drawing, tomorrow i'll get the parts to build it, though maybe theres an easier (Cleaner) way to do it, maybe with the bolts that screw inside bolts? i dont know im not knowledgeable with hardware stuff
anyhow, heres the way it'll pan out, the cap is still gonna be plastic with venting holes, softly in place, i want it to really blow out easily if the battery goes in runaway, the mods with a screwn on cap are just not safe.
figured a way to make a bottom mechanical switch with the same safety feature (tightened nut), commercial BB's have.
heres a drawing, tomorrow i'll get the parts to build it, though maybe theres an easier (Cleaner) way to do it, maybe with the bolts that screw inside bolts? i dont know im not knowledgeable with hardware stuff
anyhow, heres the way it'll pan out, the cap is still gonna be plastic with venting holes, softly in place, i want it to really blow out easily if the battery goes in runaway, the mods with a screwn on cap are just not safe.
A Chicago screw or sex bolt does this. Also in your area there might be a furniture screw available.
I saw some nice M4 in brass I might need to grab to try.
You could even mod the screw end to have some notches so it could be tightened down with a finger or thumb, sort of make it look like a gear.
Rather than mod the screw side, one could just use the female end and then just use a knurled screw. There are a lot of decorative options in M4 size threading.
If you want to secure a chicago screw, you can cut the female tube down to the length you need, drill a hole through the head so that the screw passes through the end of it and do what you like to secure the end. I personally like to drill a 1.2- 1.5mm hole in the screw and put a 1mm loop of brass wire in like a cotter pin.
I'm not sure if you've seen my switch so here is a pic:
I really do like it, I've used it for 20+ mods, but could stand to mix things up a bit.
If you want to secure a chicago screw, you can cut the female tube down to the length you need, drill a hole through the head so that the screw passes through the end of it and do what you like to secure the end. I personally like to drill a 1.2- 1.5mm hole in the screw and put a 1mm loop of brass wire in like a cotter pin.
I'm not sure if you've seen my switch so here is a pic:
I really do like it, I've used it for 20+ mods, but could stand to mix things up a bit.
I really do like it, I've used it for 20+ mods, but could stand to mix things up a bit.
is that a switch like the one I want to build? damn that looks really good, I can't understand how it works though, like so?
but you cut the end of the male screw (the leftmost one in the pic), and use the knurled one+ring for aesthetics+securing it in place?
can I find springs in the hardware store? damn i sure hope so
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Kind of like that, except the pin is the screw and the knurled nut is the button and lock. the ring keeps it from coming off. There's magnets instead of a spring, but there could be a spring of course.
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