DNA 30 DIY MOD Hopefully

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hamdamann

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Oct 1, 2010
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Hi so I have been vaping for right at about 4 years and have tried pretty much every type of vape out there. But the one avenue I have never gone down is building my own MOD so I decided to get my feet wet per say and went out and bought a DNA 30 board and the usb charging board. So now im just looking for any starting tips anyone could give as I am brand new to this side of vaping and have no clue where to proceed on my little project. Im wanting to do some type of lithium polymer battery other than an 18650 but really don't know what my options are my goal is to have an all day vape so im thinking at least 2400 MAH. I mainly run RDAs and RTAs with around 1.3 OHM coils. I want to build it in a box type enclosure but not sure what size I should go because I haven't made a battery decision and am not quite sure how to mount all the components in the case. Like I said I am brand new to the modding life so sorry if im coming off as a total noob just looking for a little direction. Thanks in advance
 

retird

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Just a few hints:

Bending the robbon cable too sharply can break the runs inside the cable. Gentle sweeping bends should not include sharp, short bends which tend to damage the ribbon. Bends close to the display can also break the ribbon cable off where it connects to the display.

I also have glued the display to the back of the board and others have used thin double sided tape.

A dab of super glue under the ribbon cable at the board works great to help protect the ribbon solder points from breaking. The ribbon and display should be treated always as fragile and easily destroyed.

Soldering to the pads to keep from bends in the wire is OK and many modders do it that way. Good idea to fill the hole in the pad with solder before soldering the wire to the pad. Also "tinning the wire" is helpful. Also using flux on all pads before soldering makes it easier.

On the wire, 20 gauge stranded is better as opposed to non-stranded and copper wire is better also. Tinning the wires ahead of soldering will also make soldering with less heat thus melting of the insulation will be much less.

Most modders that build a DNA mod have damaged a ribbon cable/display. Note that very slight pressure applied to the display will crack the glass of the display and the display will die where it will no longer display anything. So the ribbon and display should always be treated very, very gently throughout the mod building process. The DNA will still function with a dead display but you loose the ability to see the settings.

Good luck....
 

hamdamann

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Wow thanks for the valuable information I just ordered case and switches and fuses and am still looking for the batteries and what type of 510 connector I want to use so making a little slow progress might start a new thread once I get started showing my progress as I go we will see thanks again for the tips.
 
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