Do I need a TC mod?

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jamessm07

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Oct 4, 2015
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Hello,
Long time (maybe four years) sporadically lurker (registered lately), due to a language barrier but I really have to answer my question:

Do I need TC mod indeed when I only need no more then 10 watts?

I had a bad experience with a Koopor mini that lasted me two weeks before the chip burned out and while it worked I did not find any benefit of using Ni build ( that's what I have tried at ~0.2 Ohms).
My current set up is: two Innokin SVD (v1) with Rose V2, kayfun 3.1 and the least favorite: kayfun v4 and Magma rda and one Koopor mini paperweight, which I intend to turn in pass-through.
Excuse my simple language knowledge but I will appreciate any help. Thank you in advance!
 

GenericPCusername

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Oct 6, 2015
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You don't need it, but it does give you more options for your vape. A good TC mod lets you heat the wire quickly and yet keep a cool vape if that is your thing. You can adjust the temp for the juice, some give better flavor at higher or lower temps. Plus, no risk of dry hits. It's not a requirement, but it can be nice.

+1 It's definitely not necessary but is also awesome. I love being able to take long draws and get a consistent hit and being able to dial different temperatures in for different liquids has been great for flavor.
 
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jamessm07

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Thank you for your answers, but I almost always have a perfect vape and what more options would I have with my current atomizers; and also I do not experience dry hits since I am using Japanese cotton and wick like .... Kickers on Youtube. While using the short lasting TC device I had some warnings on the screen which I fought out but I prefer non engaging vaping.
Also I am definitely MTL vaper.
Sorry if my English is not very intelligible!
 
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MattyTny

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I have some mixed reactions with TC and it has mostly to do with the amount of devices that are coming out with TC. Newer devices are supporting titanium along with nickel. Devices are getting more accurate and/or more consistent. And prices are changing.

If you are satisfied wit your equipment now I would wait until something substantially better that utilizes new advancements releases. Not to say what is out currently is subpar, but I would be happier making a purchase in a few months as opposed to now. That's a very contradicting statement though, by that logic I would be waiting forever instead of buying lol.
 

jamessm07

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Thank you, It seems that I was looking for that kind of answers and yes, I am at least moderately satisfied now but I was afraid that I'm missing something revolutionary in the scene of vaping.

And please, one more question: will I see any advantages if I try the new wire NiFe30 through NiFe52 in my setup mentioned above?
 
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nyiddle

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Thank you, It seems that I was looking for that kind of answers and yes, I am at least moderately satisfied now but I was afraid that I'm missing something revolutionary in the scene of vaping.

And please, one more question: will I see any advantages if I try the new wire NiFe30 through NiFe52 in my setup mentioned above?

That wire is a Nickel wire, it's only compatible in temp-control devices. If you want to stick with your old setup, you do not want to use this wire.
 

jamessm07

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Ouch thanks it seems you can't shoot two rabbits with one bullet.

EDIT: I am still interested why I could not use that wire because steam-engine states that at 30 AWG NiFe52 I can still make 12 wraps around 3mm stem or 10.5 on 3.5mm drill at 1 Ohms which is fine with the SVD minimum Ohms resistance. Right now I can drop down my Kantal A1 to 1 Ohms on the SVD although I prefer 1.2-1.3 ohms( because of convenient for me number of wraps, I prefer non spaced wraps, do not know the synonyms word).
 
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nyiddle

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Ouch thanks it seems you can't shoot two rabbits with one bullet.

EDIT: I am still interested why I could not use that wire because steam-engine states that at 30 AWG NiFe52 I can still make 12 wraps around 3mm stem or 10.5 on 3.5mm drill at 1 Ohms which is fine with the SVD minimum Ohms resistance. Right now I can drop down my Kantal A1 to 1 Ohms on the SVD although I prefer 1.2-1.3 ohms( because of convenient for me number of wraps).

With temp control, the device never applies the full power. As the wire is heated, the resistance goes up, and the device reads this resistance. It knows that above a certain resistance it'll be at a certain temperature.

If you apply the full power to nickel wire (ie: in a non-TC device) the chemical properties will change, the alloys will oxidize, and bad stuff will happen. Don't use nickel wire in a non-TC device.
 
Nickel and titanium will change resistance as it get hotter and cooler. Temp control is the hardware being programmed to "know" how the wire reacts to the current going through it. This is why temp control devices have separate settings for both ni and ti and also why the resistance should be measured by the device when both the coils and mod are at the same temp and then usually "locked" in the settings
.
 

GeorgeS

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    Most folk avoid nickel as it provides no benefit over using other wire types AND its insanely low resistance forces you to silly small 28-32AWG wire or build coils so large that they won't fit on most decks.

    Most TC mods limit the temperature to 600F so as to not degrade Nickel and create oxidation issues. Personally I don't think anyone on the planet would WANT to vape at 600F or be inhaling on their mod if their coil was anywhere near 600F (no matter WHAT wire they were using) so the idea with Nickel coils is to use spaced wraps and don't "dry burn" them in VV/VW modes (at all) and surely not so they are "glowing" least they create some nasty oxides.

    I'm currently vaping a 2.0ohm SS430 build on a Sigelli vMax Mini @ 5.0V (VV) mode. It works fine here. Would I do the same with Ti wire? Sure. There's little reason not to. Between the constant voltage setting and a 15sec hit timer its rather doubtful that my coil will ever reach 500F let alone anything higher than that. Ni wire? No. Why bother when I have other wire types that are easier to work with?

    If your using VV or VW, might as well stick with Kanthal and the other wire types designed for those modes. The types that TC users are using won't gain you anything.
     

    SomeTexan

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    Most folk avoid nickel...
    This is bad info. There are more nickel coils avalible than there are Titanium. Personally, titanium oxide is poison, so I avoid it. Nickel just has a low melting point.

    The first coil I ever wrapped was nickel, and I got a working pair in a Derringer rda. Sure, it was low ohms, but it worked great. I like temp control, but some don't. With complex juices, you can really change the flavor by adjusting the temp.
     
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    GeorgeS

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    This is bad info. There are more nickel coils avalible than there are Titanium. Personally, titanium oxide is poison, so I avoid it. Nickel just has a low melting point.

    The first coil I ever wrapped was nickel, and I got a working pair in a Derringer rda. Sure, it was low ohms, but it worked great. I like temp control, but some don't. With complex juices, you can really change the flavor by adjusting the temp.

    The first coil I ever wrapped was Nickel as well. However if you read these forums much most folks would rather use Kanthal or some wire (any wire) other than Nickel as lots of folks don't like working with it. (it has nothing to do with the low melting point or "oxides" but everything to do with the usable gauges and how many wraps you need for a functional TC coil)

    Would I (or anyone else) want to use Ni200 wire "just because" if it was not being used for TC? Not hardly.

    Nickel is the most popular TC wire and can be found in more store bought TC atomizers than any other TC wire type. I still have more tanks with Ni200 builds installed than other TC wire types.

    I'd suggest anyone read some of the many discussions on different wire types. Some have advantages and some don't. Both the Ni and Ti "oxide and poison" are generally non-issues.

    I've ignited Ti wire before and unlike other metals that can actually ignite and 'burn', Ti dies rather quickly and is no cause for alarm.
     

    Pushbutton

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    Tried it, with both nickel and titanium (both grade 1 and 2). I'd say if you are happy with your vape and not overly prone to dryhits, you aren't missing much. For me personally, Kanthal still wins.
    If you enjoy tinkering, give it a shot and see if it is for you. I followed the hype last year and still messing with it on occasion, but it still doesn't hold any appeal to me (other than trying something new for newness sake).
     
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