Do mechs heat coils faster/better?

[Sucker_dad]

So I have tried building coils a little longer(more wraps) and I tried to do a coil with 32gauge twisted. Both coils were great looking the longer one was I think 10 wraps on a 1/16th drill bit it came out around 2.5 ohm. Next I tried to lower resistance and I twisted 2 strands of kanthal in my drill wrapped 8 times. That one read 1.6 ohm. Well that is the lowest resistance I want to get into on an Itaste vv 3.0 or an ego-c twist. While they both did allright they just didn't give me as much vape as I get out of 6 wraps @ 1/16th reading about 2.3-2.4. I think my ego and my Itaste just struggle to heat that much wire. Would a mech like the Nemesis do this better? I am not looking to get into sub ohm stuff. I am just looking at getting more surface area of coil and therefore more vapor. Did that make any sense to the gurus out there? Thanks in advance.


I guess I should add that I am looking at three Mechs. the Nemesis clone, the King Clone and the New Chai You clone. which would you pick of those three? If you have a radically different suggestion, tell me a good reason why. Save it if that suggestion is buy the original, because the bank account just won't support it.

 

[Thrasher]

the mechanical will struggle even harder to heat a mid to high resistance as there is no voltage regulation. from the start the battery is always dying and the voltage getting lower and lower. anything above 1.2 ohms on a mech is really just a hassle, it will work but it wont work good for long. the best you can do in that case is use something like 30G and wrap around the 1.2 range.

also when you drop resistance you are raising the amperage requirements and the batteries you have may just be getting stuck at the amp limits and not actually putting out enough power.

instead of trying to get all tricky with the wire why not just change gauge?

for me i would get the (brass) nemesis first and the chi second.

 

[Steam Turbine]

The short answer is: No a mech will not be any better that your ego twist... Actually at 2.3 ohms, a mech will be much worse than your ego twist.

Question: Why are you twisting your wires?

 

[happydave]

Really besides quality and fit and finish it's more important that you use a battery with a good amp rating (c rating) check out some mech mods under $30 and spend more on decent batteries

 

[happydave]

I use twisted kanthal because it provides more surface contact with the wick than traditional round wire. It also cuts the resistance in half (roughly)

EDIT: so i thought about that for a second something told me half was a bit much... so i did some testing and here is what i got

Twisted kanthal .32 gauge .38 ohms per cm or .95 ohms per inch

standard kanthal .32 gauge .48 ohms per cm or 1.2 ohms per inch

so basically you drop .25 ohms per inch with .32 gauge kanthal.
might try this with 28 gauge in a bit and see what happens.

when you twisted it right it increases the surface area tremendously however. it looks like a row of tiny beads... as we know curved things have more surface area than flat things.

 

[Credo]

Wick and air....

I've found that pretty much any coil I make that turns red quickly when dry burned (hopefully almost instantly with the button push) can vape my sox off. The trick is getting the right wick and air combination for my setup, and getting the coil positioned right in the air flow for the Throat Hit I'm after.

In other words...it's more about where the coil and wick is placed, and the airflow than it is having 'the perfect coil'.

 

[Steam Turbine]

So I have tried building coils a little longer(more wraps) and I tried to do a coil with 32gauge twisted. Both coils were great looking the longer one was I think 10 wraps on a 1/16th drill bit it came out around 2.5 ohm. Next I tried to lower resistance and I twisted 2 strands of kanthal in my drill wrapped 8 times. That one read 1.6 ohm. Well that is the lowest resistance I want to get into on an Itaste vv 3.0 or an ego-c twist. While they both did allright they just didn't give me as much vape as I get out of 6 wraps @ 1/16th reading about 2.3-2.4. I think my ego and my Itaste just struggle to heat that much wire. Would a mech like the Nemesis do this better? I am not looking to get into sub ohm stuff. I am just looking at getting more surface area of coil and therefore more vapor. Did that make any sense to the gurus out there? Thanks in advance.


I guess I should add that I am looking at three Mechs. the Nemesis clone, the King Clone and the New Chai You clone. which would you pick of those three? If you have a radically different suggestion, tell me a good reason why. Save it if that suggestion is buy the original, because the bank account just won't support it.

Here's 2 more questions:

1- What are you trying to recoil?
2- Have you ever tried micro-coiling whatever it is you are trying to coil?

 

[UncleChuck]

You have too much wire you are trying to heat. If you have a huge amount of wire, you need higher voltage to properly heat it.

Mechs will heat wire faster if the coil heats slowly due to a lack of available amperage. But that's not your problem. Your problem is not enough power for the amount of wire you are using. The solution is to rebuild, using less wire, but obtaining the same final resistance. This way you keep the power level the same, but have less wire to heat up, so it heats quicker and vapes better.

 

[happydave]

The additional surface area only matters if you can heat it properly, which you aren't able to do with your current setups. It's not the amp draw that's the issue with your build (the only thing mechs are good for, pumping serious amps) it's that your resistance is far too high for your voltage, and/or you have far too much wire mass in there, which isn't reaching proper temperature.

When increasing resistance, you have thinner wire (higher gauge number) or you add more wraps. If you add more wraps, you get more surface area, but that additional surface area requires additional power.

If you are using this on a regulated device there is no reason to twist wire and try to drop resistance. Your goal is usually trying to get HIGHER resistance for regulated devices, not lower. Use a single strand of 30g or 32g and it will work far better. You want the coil to heat up red hot within a second or two (with dry/no wick obviously) if it takes much longer, you know something is off and needs to be tweaked for optimal performance.

You can't just change one variable, all of them work together. If you want more surface area, you need more power, which you aren't getting in your current setup. A mech won't help because it will still only give you 4.2V max, which isn't enough voltage for a setup with a huge wire mass.

volts x amps = watts
when talking about the flow of electrons,
voltage is the pressure
amps is the speed
and resistance (ohms) is the back pressure caused by friction...
Watts is a unit for power...

increasing amperage will increase watts
increasing voltage will increase watts
decreasing resistance will increase amps
increasing amperage will increase watts
and watts is power..

A mech won't help because it will still only give you 4.2V max, which isn't enough voltage for a setup with a huge wire mass.

volts does not equal power... 4.2 volts might be plenty if your running it at 30 amps.

 

[Sucker_dad]

The short answer is: No a mech will not be any better that your ego twist... Actually at 2.3 ohms, a mech will be much worst than your ego twist.

Question: Why are you twisting your wires?

I am not specifically trying to hit higher resistance. I have just been experimenting to see what works better. I have wrapped them as low as 1.3 and as high as 3.0 It's how I learn. The reason I twisted the wire was to lower the resistance so I could do more coils. It was a way of checking how a lower gauge wire would react without buying a roll of wire. I've seen a few of the guys doing rebuilds on youtube using a twisted wire coil. They look really nice and the wire is not as springy when you do it.

Really besides quality and fit and finish it's more important that you use a battery with a good amp rating (c rating) check out some mech mods under $30 and spend more on decent batteries

If I get a mech, I understand that they will put out 4.2 at first and then it drops as the battery discharges, and I would need to build my coils to suit. My biggest issue is the cost of the Ego's is about $30 for a 1300mah twist same for the itaste when the battery craps out the unit is garbage. I can get a Nem clone for $38 from a seller I know on Ebay and replacement batteries are 10 bucks if I get a really good one. I may some day venture into sub ohm but for now I don't have a need. Another thing about the mechs is the appearance when I use my dripper they look a little better and I have popped my IGO-L off the threads on several of my Ego's so I have to use a 510 to ego adapter to put them on my batteries. Making them even more susceptible to getting snapped off.

 

[Sucker_dad]

volts x amps = watts
when talking about the flow of electrons,
voltage is the pressure
amps is the speed
and resistance (ohms) is the back pressure caused by friction...
Watts is a unit for power...

increasing amperage will increase watts
increasing voltage will increase watts
decreasing resistance will increase amps
increasing amperage will increase watts
and watts is power..

A mech won't help because it will still only give you 4.2V max, which isn't enough voltage for a setup with a huge wire mass. volts does not equal power... 4.2 volts might be plenty if your running it at 30 amps.

So your saying only subohm stuff would do the trick? Cause as far as I know that is the only way to get into that type of amperage.

 

[UncleChuck]

volts x amps = watts
when talking about the flow of electrons,
voltage is the pressure
amps is the speed
and resistance (ohms) is the back pressure caused by friction...
Watts is a unit for power...

increasing amperage will increase watts
increasing voltage will increase watts
decreasing resistance will increase amps
increasing amperage will increase watts
and watts is power..


volts does not equal power... 4.2 volts might be plenty if your running it at 30 amps.

I was confused with my first reply, I thought you were the OP, so I was replying taking into account the OP's issue and information. Someone asked why the OP was using twisted wire and you responded why you were using it, so I thought you were the OP. My mistake Post already edited

 

[happydave]

So your saying only subohm stuff would do the trick? Cause as far as I know that is the only way to get into that type of amperage.

that was just some basic electrical theory. and an example.

i use a 1.5 ohm .32 gauge twisted, 3/4 wrap on 2 strands of 2 mm wick on my dripper with a 5/16 air hole located directly next to the coil.
this will produce decent amounts of vapor and flavor for my all day every day vaping needs.

running at 4.2 volts a 1.5 ohm coil means we have 2.8 amps.. 2.8 amps is not that much. some 18650 batteries are rated to 24 amps.

 

[Thrasher]

about the highest you can get anything that will give decent results and decent battery life is 1.2 or lower on a mech. other people run higher but im not sure how they can stand it lol.

subohm isnt anything to be afraid of if your only dipping into say .9-.8 there is no magical threshold you cross at 1 ohm.

the dangers that you read about are associated with these people dropping into the .5 ohm rang and lower. it is still ok but there is no room for errors down there.

 

[Credo]

If I get a mech, I understand that they will put out 4.2 at first and then it drops as the battery discharges, and I would need to build my coils to suit. My biggest issue is the cost of the Ego's is about $30 for a 1300mah twist same for the itaste when the battery craps out the unit is garbage. I can get a Nem clone for $38 from a seller I know on Ebay and replacement batteries are 10 bucks if I get a really good one. I may some day venture into sub ohm but for now I don't have a need. Another thing about the mechs is the appearance when I use my dripper they look a little better and I have popped my IGO-L off the threads on several of my Ego's so I have to use a 510 to ego adapter to put them on my batteries. Making them even more susceptible to getting snapped off.

I like the feel and durability of a good mech as well.
I also like VW.

My answer?
A Kick 2 for some of my mods.
Also still run a Kick 1 in some.
A Crown 2.0 for the ones that are PITA to get inside (uses button clicks to adjust instead of a screw-pot on top).

I'm not really into dual coil stuff on regular basis (juice hogs) so the 5 - 10 watt range of a Kick 1 or Crown suit me 'most of the time'.

I also keep a Kick 2 on hand for the occasional dual coil stuff (the extra 5 watts comes in handy there...plus it'll handle atties down to 0.5 Ohms).

These do a really smooth vape (constant signal...no pulses or rattles), and bring regulated vaping to most of the 18mm mods out there.

With these type contraptions I find I can use 18650 10A hybrid cells (2500+mah) in the mods that have a kick ring, which will last most of the day of hard vaping.

For vaping without a kick...I'll only use the 18650 IMR (30 AMP) stuff. Those usually are around 1500ish mah unless you go for some currently really expensive cells.

 

[Sucker_dad]

I like the feel and durability of a good mech as well.
I also like VW.

My answer?
A Kick 2 for some of my mods.
Also still run a Kick 1 in some.
A Crown 2.0 for the ones that are PITA to get inside (uses button clicks to adjust instead of a screw-pot on top).

I'm not really into dual coil stuff on regular basis (juice hogs) so the 5 - 10 watt range of a Kick 1 or Crown suit me 'most of the time'.

I also keep a Kick 2 on hand for the occasional dual coil stuff (the extra 5 watts comes in handy there...plus it'll handle atties down to 0.5 Ohms).

These do a really smooth vape (constant signal...no pulses or rattles), and bring regulated vaping to most of the 18mm mods out there.

If I were going to use a kick I would probably get the kick 2 anyway. Honestlly though I run full bore on my Itaste when I build coils at about 1.5-1.8 for it. SO I don't know how much I would use one. I think for the way I do it and simplicity's sake I would tailor the coil to the mech. I have gotten rather adept at building them.

 

[Credo]

If I were going to use a kick I would probably get the kick 2 anyway. Honestlly though I run full bore on my Itaste when I build coils at about 1.5-1.8 for it. SO I don't know how much I would use one. I think for the way I do it and simplicity's sake I would tailor the coil to the mech. I have gotten rather adept at building them.

I hear ya...for my vape style a kick is worth it.

I'm more of a pacifier and flavor nut vaper than a lung hitter...but I got sick of VV/VW units that fall apart in short order. Got a cheap mech, kicked it, and fell in love with it.

 

[Sucker_dad]

Wick and air....

I've found that pretty much any coil I make that turns red quickly when dry burned (hopefully almost instantly with the button push) can vape my sox off. The trick is getting the right wick and air combination for my setup, and getting the coil positioned right in the air flow for the Throat Hit I'm after.

In other words...it's more about where the coil and wick is placed, and the airflow than it is having 'the perfect coil'.

Almost missed your post. I will agree with this. My first few builds were terrible tasting or had no throat hit and little vapor. I did not realize having the coil in line with the airholewas so important or having it at the right height. I was just kind of getting it in there and wherever it ended up was where it stayed. No I am very particular and place it as close as possible to the airhole and just a touch under. I am within a 1/16th of the wall of the atomizer. I also drilled the airhole to 1/16th.