Doc's LED flashlight VX2 mod 4.8 Volts

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The Doc

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Jul 14, 2009
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Torrington, CT 06790
WHO SAYS you need to spend $100 to $200 for a good mod? Times are tough!

I purchased a pair of LED flashlights on ebay......less than $25 for the TWO of them. Here is a link to the flashlights >>

4 ITEMS 2 PACK 51 LED BRIGHT FLASHLIGHT TORCH+HOLSTERS - eBay (item 110317990164 end time Oct-22-09 03:00:24 PDT)



The uniquely wonderful thing about this particular type of LED flashlight is that the removeable battery slug holds 4 AAA cells. I'm using 4 inexpensive and highly reliable 1800mAH RECHARGEABLE NiMH cells. This means the nominal voltage to my atty is 4.8 Volts, which is the perfect voltage. Most ecigs and PV's will supply 3.7 Volts to the atty. This usually provides great flavor, but the vapor production could be MUCH better. On the other hand, there are other larger "mods" out there on the market (all rather expensive, compared to my quick 1 hour homebrew here), which supply 6 volts to the atty. Those overpriced 6 volt mods produce crazy mad vapor & throat hit, but they also KILL the flavor as well as shortening atty lifespan considerably. I have been bench testing attys at various test voltages for some time now, and I have come to find that 4.8 to 5.2 Volts will consistently provide the PERFECT "happy medium" blend of increased vapor & throat hit, while still maintaining reasonable atty voltage and great flavor. The NiMH AAA cells are commonly available on eBay in quantity lots (I have a crapload of them, with 1 hour quick chargers) and they supply a great capacity rating of 1800mAH, which will last for many hours on a single charge. Also note that the POWERIZER brand of 1000mAH AAA NiMH cells are readily available right here in the U.S.

The 1.3" handle diameter may be a little big for someone with very petite hands, but it's the perfect fit in my hands. As you can see in the photo, the one shown in my hand is complete (and fully operational) with a smaller "mini" type VX2 atty. I've not yet decided which type atty to run on my (incomplete) 2nd one.......but I'm thinking about finding a threaded connector, perhaps one salvaged/removed from a dead DSE801 type battery, due to the large sized carts that a DSE801 atty can accomodate. I'M SEEKING SUGGESTIONS in this matter, because I might desire to run a MUCH LARGER ATTY & CART on my second mod, which only awaits a threaded battery connector at this point. My first one with the VX2 battery connector is perfect for dripping. I usually put 2 drops in the atty and it's (roughly) equivalent to one analog. I have also just discovered that the VX2 carts will WICK MUCH BETTER by drilling a tiny hole in the bottom (about 0.040"), opposite the little plastic barb/spike. Make this hole at the other side (NOT in the CENTER), in a position that is mirrored to the plastic barb, about 1mm from the sidewall. This thing is now making crazy, WACKY VAPOR with great flavor.......it is basically a TURBOCHARGED VX2!!!

In summary, this is MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE mod YET....AND I TRULY LOVE IT!!
 
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The Doc

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Beautiful! I think its time to dust off my soldering gun!

I used my 48W soldering station @ 650F (it goes up to nearly 1000F).

Be sure to have plenty of epoxy on hand, 5 to 15 minute (I use the 6 minute epoxy).

Your local hobby shop (where they sell R/C airplanes) is your best bet for the bigger bottles of epoxy
 

The Doc

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Jul 14, 2009
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Torrington, CT 06790
I really want to delve into this project. Any chance you'd put together a schematic for us mod n00bs?

P.S. I was hoping to get your opinion on this: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/litecig/40638-has-anyone-else-experienced.html

The battery is fried, but be sure to SAVE the threaded connector from that battery if you want to build mods! I have no love or honor for standard ecig batteries. In summary, I think they are a complete joke and that is why I've been playing with various mods.....and this latest one will probably be my last for a long time to come....it works THAT WELL!

I have no time to draw up plans and I build all my mods on the fly, from the seat of my pants. The VX2 atty may be wired in EITHER polarity...positive tip or negative tip, it works either way. your biggest challenge is to mount the type of switch that YOU prefer. I used a low profile white momentary switch on my first mod. The 2nd one uses the original rubber button that comes factory installed in the LED flashlight......but with my own salvaged tact switch under it.....which had to be epoxied to the original circuit board which I STRIPPED of all factory original parts. There is also a GROUND LUG on both of my mods. I drilled & tapped a 4-40 hole in front of the momentary switch, installed a 4-40 capscrew, then TIGHTLY nutted a solder-type terminal inside. I did this to get a solid ground to my VX2 atty. I cut the threaded female end connector out of an old VX2 automatic battery (good riddance). The end cap is made of hard clear plastic and it is FILLED with 6 minute epoxy for structural reinforcement. This was a very quick mod....but if you take your time, you can easily come up with much better parts than I used, such as a nice metal end cap/slug/adapter, etc.
 
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rengic

Senior Member
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Jul 12, 2009
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Seattle
The battery is fried, but be sure to SAVE the threaded connector from that battery if you want to build mods! I have no love or honor for standard ecig batteries. In summary, I think they are a complete joke and that is why I've been playing with various mods.....and this latest one will probably be my last for a long time to come....it works THAT WELL!

Thanks for your input and yea I was also thinking about a mod part! In fact, I've got a little case of dead VX2 attys and batteries that I can add this one to.

I have no time to draw up plans and I build all my mods on the fly, from the seat of my pants. The VX2 atty may be wired in EITHER polarity...positive tip or negative tip, it works either way. your biggest challenge is to mount the type of switch that YOU prefer. I used a low profile white momentary switch on my first mod. The 2nd one uses the original rubber button that comes factory installed in the LED flashlight......but with my own salvaged tact switch under it.....which had to be epoxied to the original circuit board which I STRIPPED of all factory original parts. There is also a GROUND LUG on both of my mods. I drilled & tapped a 4-40 hole in front of the momentary switch, installed a 4-40 capscrew, then TIGHTLY nutted a solder-type terminal inside. I did this to get a solid ground to my VX2 atty. I cut the threaded female end connector out of an old VX2 automatic battery (good riddance). The end cap is made of hard clear plastic and it is FILLED with 6 minute epoxy for structural reinforcement. This was a very quick mod....but if you take your time, you can easily come up with much better parts than I used, such as a nice metal end cap/slug/adapter, etc.

I appreciate your quick crash course. The polarity on the atty was one issue I couldn't quite over come in my head. It's good to know its irrelevant. I've got a broken CRT projector I was planning on burning a switch off of. Now I just need some epoxy and my flashlight. But you know what else I can't quite get my head around...

I saw somehow on the classified section selling a flashlight mod for $100! 8-o
It seems to me that at most it should only cost someone $30 bucks to build and that's without parts to salvage. Am I wrong???
 

The Doc

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 14, 2009
335
0
55
Torrington, CT 06790
Thanks for your input and yea I was also thinking about a mod part! In fact, I've got a little case of dead VX2 attys and batteries that I can add this one to.



I appreciate your quick crash course. The polarity on the atty was one issue I couldn't quite over come in my head. It's good to know its irrelevant. I've got a broken CRT projector I was planning on burning a switch off of. Now I just need some epoxy and my flashlight. But you know what else I can't quite get my head around...

I saw somehow on the classified section selling a flashlight mod for $100! 8-o
It seems to me that at most it should only cost someone $30 bucks to build and that's without parts to salvage. Am I wrong???

You're correct....even IF you had to buy switches, wire, solder and epoxy you still could build them for pretty darn cheap. I just did my 2nd one with another VX2 atty. I made 2 slight changes, but both work essentially the same. One just has a lower profile switch that you have to press a bit harder than the other. Also, the atty connector sticks up a bit higher on my second one, making it about 1/8" taller/longer. They are nearly identical.

It really PAYS to hang onto little electrical & mechanical parts..... from bushings to grommets to switches, connectors and multi-conductor wires & cables. I always make room for a good stock of small salvaged parts. VX2 ecigs are originally polarized as negative tip, but the atty will work wired either way. Just make sure that IF you use a conductive metal end cap, that you wire it for positive tip, since the entire case would be your ground. That is the best way to go. Switch your +VDC lead to the center orifice of your connector and run a case ground to the outer barrel of your connector. You will need to make very small solder joints if you pull the original wires off the atty connector. I always solder my own new (heavier) power leads, but if you are not equipped for making very small neat solder joints, you'd better salvage the original leads on the barrel & tip. ALSO, if you overheat the solder joint on the rear orifice of the original center tip, it MAY change your air gap where the atty threads onto the connector....this just happened to me. I used one of the very THIN Dremel cutoff wheels to cut 3 little slots into the outer end of the threaded connector barrel....this restored my intake airflow. IF you ever end up needing to adjust your intake airflow in this manner, be sure to cut your slots very small & shallow to start with. You can always cut a little more, but once you've cut too much, you can't easily reverse that condition. Also, be very careful not to overheat the small plastic insulator between the connector tip & barrel. Take a good look inside the back of the connector BEFORE you start working on it. Get a good understanding of how it's designed BEFORE putting a solder iron anywhere near it. Another good tip is this.....Even IF you salvage the original connector power leads, you should SEAL the center orifice from the rear by dabbing some epoxy in the orifice.
 
Last edited:

The Doc

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 14, 2009
335
0
55
Torrington, CT 06790
WHO SAYS you need to spend $100 to $200 for a good mod? Times are tough!

I purchased a pair of LED flashlights on ebay......less than $25 for the TWO of them. Here is a link to the flashlights >>

4 ITEMS 2 PACK 51 LED BRIGHT FLASHLIGHT TORCH+HOLSTERS - eBay (item 110317990164 end time Oct-22-09 03:00:24 PDT)



The uniquely wonderful thing about this particular type of LED flashlight is that the removeable battery slug holds 4 AAA cells. I'm using 4 inexpensive and highly reliable 1800mAH RECHARGEABLE NiMH cells. This means the nominal voltage to my atty is 4.8 Volts, which is the perfect voltage. Most ecigs and PV's will supply 3.7 Volts to the atty. This usually provides great flavor, but the vapor production could be MUCH better. On the other hand, there are other larger "mods" out there on the market (all rather expensive, compared to my quick 1 hour homebrew here), which supply 6 volts to the atty. Those overpriced 6 volt mods produce crazy mad vapor & throat hit, but they also KILL the flavor as well as shortening atty lifespan considerably. I have been bench testing attys at various test voltages for some time now, and I have come to find that 4.8 to 5.2 Volts will consistently provide the PERFECT "happy medium" blend of increased vapor & throat hit, while still maintaining reasonable atty voltage and great flavor. The NiMH AAA cells are commonly available on eBay in quantity lots (I have a crapload of them, with 1 hour quick chargers) and they supply a great capacity rating of 1800mAH, which will last for many hours on a single charge. Also note that the POWERIZER brand of 1000mAH AAA NiMH cells are readily available right here in the U.S.

The 1.3" handle diameter may be a little big for someone with very petite hands, but it's the perfect fit in my hands. As you can see in the photo, the one shown in my hand is complete (and fully operational) with a smaller "mini" type VX2 atty. I've not yet decided which type atty to run on my (incomplete) 2nd one.......but I'm thinking about finding a threaded connector, perhaps one salvaged/removed from a dead DSE801 type battery, due to the large sized carts that a DSE801 atty can accomodate. I'M SEEKING SUGGESTIONS in this matter, because I might desire to run a MUCH LARGER ATTY & CART on my second mod, which only awaits a threaded battery connector at this point. My first one with the VX2 battery connector is perfect for dripping. I usually put 2 drops in the atty and it's (roughly) equivalent to one analog. I have also just discovered that the VX2 carts will WICK MUCH BETTER by drilling a tiny hole in the bottom (about 0.040"), opposite the little plastic barb/spike. Make this hole at the other side (NOT in the CENTER), in a position that is mirrored to the plastic barb, about 1mm from the sidewall. This thing is now making crazy, WACKY VAPOR with great flavor.......it is basically a TURBOCHARGED VX2!!!

In summary, this is MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE MOD YET....AND I TRULY LOVE IT!!

CORRECTION: Drill the hole NO LARGER THAN 0.020"
 
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