Dry Burning

[Riedell]

After dry burning my carto, i can still taste a small hint of burntness.

Is it because i still had the cotton filling (while dry burning) in it or is there still gunk on the coil?

Edit: I didnt see no vapor after awhile when i was in the process of dry burning so i figured it was done cleaning.

 

[db13berry]

It is not advisable to dry burn a fillered cartomizer that I know of.

 

[Riedell]

So the proper suggestion is to dispose of after awhile?

 

[db13berry]

So the proper suggestion is to dispose of after awhile?

Yes. You can try cleaning them using various methods (boiling, soaking, flushing, etc) but they are hardly ever as good as new. I do clean mine, dry them well, recap and put them away for a rainy day. Not sure how much longer I will do this though, since Cartos are rather cheap. I just flush mine with a syringe and hot distilled water, sling them out well, and set them out to dry for a few days.

They are considered disposable though. Depending on the juice used and depending on the carto, you can get anywhere from 4 days to 10 days out of one. Then do whatever you want with them.

I am assuming you are talking about basic cartos, btw.

 

[Riedell]

Yeah, basic ones from a DSE-901 model.

I've done iso alcohol, vinegar, peroxide, vodka (all with a syringe) and boiling but the gunk in the coil seems to not come out.

I'm still trying to figure out what solution/solute would clean the coil up real well without expunging the cotton/wrapping/wiring. Friend of mine said do straight acid which would 99.9% ruin everything rofl.

 

[db13berry]

Yeah, basic ones from a DSE-901 model.

I've done iso alcohol, vinegar, peroxide, vodka (all with a syringe) and boiling but the gunk in the coil seems to not come out.

I'm still trying to figure out what solution/solute would clean the coil up real well without expunging the cotton/wrapping/wiring. Friend of mine said do straight acid which would 99.9% ruin everything rofl.

If you read around ECF, everything has been tried I do believe. I have not seen a method yet that cleans them 100%. To me, its not worth the hassle anymore, unless I just feel like experimenting. I have a tupperware bowl that I toss my used dirty ones that still work. I have another tupperware bowl of cleaned ones for "just in case". Lately, Ive started just pitching them, though. I stopped the cleaning once I built up my supply of new ones. I basically order cartos with almost every order I make, whether I need em or not.

Oh, and I do not recommend acid. Lol.

 

[JWebb]

After dry burning my carto, i can still taste a small hint of burntness.

I would never dry burn even though some recommend it. I soak them in Whirte Vinegar for 20 minutes, then rinse with hot water for 5 and then blow out and then apply 4 drops or so of juice to them and they are much improved and close to new.

 

[Katya]

Oh, and I do not recommend acid. Lol.

Neither do I.

And no, you can't dry burn cartomizers--you'll burn the filler. Never, ever dry burn a filler-type carto.

 

[Jorge22]

Agreed. Cartomizers aren't meant to be dry burned. I did clean some using various methods, usually combined: the reversed tarynn spin, boiling them, simply flushing them, leaving them to dry or drying them quickly with a hair drier (a few bad results there, don't know why), etc. But, in fact, they're rather cheap and last me for a long time, well over the 10 mentioned times - I'm speaking of the regular X Power cartos.

 

[emus]

Yeah, basic ones from a DSE-901 model.

I've done iso alcohol, vinegar, peroxide, vodka (all with a syringe) and boiling but the gunk in the coil seems to not come out.

I'm still trying to figure out what solution/solute would clean the coil up real well without expunging the cotton/wrapping/wiring. Friend of mine said do straight acid which would 99.9% ruin everything rofl.

I already tried professional HVAC coil cleaning acid...no go.

Your not likely to find any chemical to remove coil carbon deposits; dry burn may help on atty.

I don't dry burn cart.

I bead blasted atty coil to bare metal. Coil worked great but performance still low due to ineffective wick.

Solid material trapped between coil and wick can act as an insulator.

Wick performance is critical...if liquid is not wicking then vapor production is decreased.