DSE 901 atomiser amp draw??

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Because I am a lazy bugger ... has anyone actually measured the Amp draw of a dse901 atomiser at a regulated voltage?????
Just having a few thoughts here and wondering if if when I start fiddling in the shop to build my U-beaut Darth Vaperiser whether it might pay to incorporate a regulated driver circuit ( such as a cheapo cree LED driver ) to save both the batts and atomiser from excesses that might degrade them ??
Probably wayyyyyyy overkill but hey --- do it right and an atomiser may last a lifetime.... i think being unregulated , they are overheating with a fresh battery???
 

Grumpysanta

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Hope this helps, The resistance of a 901 atomiser is 3.8 ohms, so current draw is approximately 0.94 amps assuming 3.6 volts, 1.25 amps at 4.8 volts, 1.58 amps at 6 volts. you can regulate the voltage using a transistor, zener diode and resistor but you need to allow at least 1.4 volts above the required voltage to regulate. so you can easily get 3.6 volts regulated from 6 volts. If you use that method then you also need to consider heat dissipation from the transistor (I'm thinking 2N3055 or equivelent).
 
Thanks Grumpy --- I am looking at incorporating an LED driver which will only allow up to a certain amp draw...I.m thinking along the lines of
DealExtreme: $16.58 AMC7135 1050mA Regulated Circuit Board for DIY Flashlights 10-Pack

I have not used these before , but I a thinking they work along the lines of accepting increased voltage until a certain amp draw is delivered? if so then i'm thinking this may lessen huge draws on batteries when unregulated amp draw takes place, and thus easing the load on the filament in the atomiser , and keeping the temp fairly constant which might also help stop the wicking material degrading as quickly??
Just a thought??
Trying to design the ultimate reliable unit lol
 

madog

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I actually think the atomizer runns better and "Cleaner" at a higher voltage - The Magnum is at 6.3 volts with fresh batts and I am on the same atomizer for the last two months with "HEAVY" usage.
I do NO cleaning of my atomizer what so ever.
I do run it "good and wet" and get lots of vapor - I you have not seen the Magnum mod check out my sig line. I did build a small pwm voltage supply and ran that for a few days but found I did not get the vapor production that I wanted at the lower voltage (3.7) - I alos did some non scientic testing showing temp current draw based on differnet voltages you maybe interested in here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...test-electrial-properties-different-mods.html
 

RjG

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Thanks Grumpy --- I am looking at incorporating an LED driver which will only allow up to a certain amp draw...I.m thinking along the lines of
DealExtreme: $16.58 AMC7135 1050mA Regulated Circuit Board for DIY Flashlights 10-Pack

I have not used these before , but I a thinking they work along the lines of accepting increased voltage until a certain amp draw is delivered? if so then i'm thinking this may lessen huge draws on batteries when unregulated amp draw takes place, and thus easing the load on the filament in the atomiser , and keeping the temp fairly constant which might also help stop the wicking material degrading as quickly??
Just a thought??
Trying to design the ultimate reliable unit lol

These are just current regulators, "AMC7135 is a low dropout current. regulator" they don't have a "BOOST" function, which is what you would be after, to deliver a 1amp at 4v consistently from beginning to end when the battery is tapering down to the lower 3/4 of it's capacity.

They WILL regulate the current to a consistent amount for the duration of the battery, but it would be more like the e-cig would work just like it was 60 percent used already, it would be lots less "hot" with a full charge battery... since putting this device in the circuit can only drop the power to regulate the current, not increase it, and there will be a small voltage drop penalty for having the device in the circuit. (as the voltage drops, the current drops too as a function of the coil resistance) So it would have no "hot" beginning, for a little while when the coil would have normally drawn over an amp with a full battery, and then a regular taper of downward performance as the voltage tapers off.

To have a perfect setup, you'd have to modify the atomizer to have a smaller nichrome coil so it could draw a full amp at the lowest voltage usable, 3v. Then with the regulator the coil would draw 1 amp from full charge (4.2v) to the end (3v). (If it made sufficient vapor, this would be perfect, and is the plan I am going to try)

Or, you could use TWO batteries in series with this type circuit, and easily get 1 amp all the way from beginning to end, without modifying the atomizers at all. Your atomizer would never be too hot, or too cold. Or a bigger battery with less "sag" will give you some better results too...
 
Excellent info rjg , just what I was after... you are completely right I think and steering me on the right track , these circuits are used to regulate a 2 or more lithium setup in series arent they?... I might now consider using these and having a 7.2 li-poly pack driving it .. my aim is to not overdrive the atomiser but provide a regular Amp supply that would keep it at its effective (optimum)heat level? I am really looking to incorporate a high mAh set-up that can keep the atomiser at a set temp and provide the longevity we simply dont get with std batteries. I am thinking there might need to be a degree of heatsinking tho if the input voltage is too high?
 

RjG

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Driving a 1 amp LED, or a 1 amp coil is the same, so if the board is big enough to provide heatsink driving a 1 amp LED, it should be fine for the atomizer too.

If you want, you can see http://www.micro-bridge.com/data/ADD/AMC7135.pdf
there is a graph for current consumption of the regulator itself, a formula for figuring out dissipation, and a chart for how big the circuit board needs to be to heatsink that heat away. Remember each of the 3 regulators on that board is supplying 1/3 of the current, so your calculation would be 3 x 333milliamps.

Or just go with it, and see how it works. They are thermally protected anyway, so they won't burn up on you. ;-)
 
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