- Status
I don't think so. It's usually recommended to use the 4.2 volts of a fully charged battery in the formula. At the very least, one could use the nominal voltage of 3.7 volts. Using 4.2 volts and the 15 amp Samsung 30Q would be 2 x 45 watts = 90 watts total.
Admittedly, the 88 watts isn't that far off from 90 watts in this instance.
Last edited:
The formula gives numbers very close to the ones you posted. They are just a bit lower (or more conservative, if you like it better) than yours, but that's not necessarily bad, specially when we are talking about safety.
It's more critical to be more conservative with mech mods and Ohm's Law calcultions. With a regulated mod, you have protection circuitry to help keep you from harm's way.
I have found that cotton (wick) lasts A LOT longer with the Profile. Just pulled the wick off one of mine moments ago. 2+ weeks and no sign of scorching or collapsing. With a regular coil/wick setup and the juice I have been using this would have been 3/4 days tops before a rewick. A full Koh Gen pad with outer layers removed works well with the Profile. Have several in rotation for both squonking and dripping – great RDA! But they are juice guzzlers!
Just to clarify, it's true of regulated mods but NOT of mech mods. Think about it this way: A regulated mod set to 85 W will provide 85 W whether the battery is at 4.2 v or 3.2 v. To maintain the 85 W as the voltage drops from 4.2 v to 3.2 v, it'll have to pull an increasing amount of current from the battery. Therefore, it's pulling the most current when the battery charge is lowest.
If you're wondering where the formula is from, it's from Mooch. Here's his explanation: Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
With a mech it's a different ballgame. You use 4.2 V because you're actually getting more power when the battery's fully charged than you are when it's discharged, so the current is at its peak when the battery is fully charged.
Finally tried the SS mesh.
Surprisingly enough, I ended up with a higher resistance than the one I've got with the included kanthal mesh pieces. These sat at 0.17 ohms and the one I built with the SS mesh sits at 0.21 ohms. The pieces are almost the same size.
TC is working fine. The only difference I noticed so far is that SS mesh is softer than kanthal mesh, so extra care is needed when placing under the mesh the big amounts of cotton this RDA needs. I had to cut a new piece of mesh because the cotton destroyed the mesh the first time I tried to put it into place.
Also, I'm thinking that flavor is even better with SS, but that might be me being overly excited.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
