I just bought my first mechanical mod (an EHPro Cronus clone), and while I am also pretty new to the world of rebuildable atomizers, I've had a lot of success building coils on a smok Scar RDA and Igo-L RDA for my iTaste MVP 2.0.
I've gotten great results building microcoils at 2.0 ohms using 30 gauge Kanthal wrapped around a 3/64" drill bit. I've gone down as far as 1.4 ohms but found that my MVP works best at around 2.0 ohms.
I wanted to try a 1.0 ohm coil on my Cronus clone, so I bought some 28 gauge Kanthal and wrapped a microcoil around the same 3/64" drill bit, but reduced the coil count to hopefully hit 1.0 ohms. I mounted it on my Igo-L and it measured at 0.9 ohms -- not perfect, but still acceptable and safe with the Sony 18650VTC3 batteries I bought along with my Cronus clone at my local vape shop.
It vaped on the Cronus clone amazingly well. Tons more vapor, noticeably more throat hit, and just about the same flavor as with my 2.0 ohm coils vaped at 11 watts on my MVP 2.0.
After a while, when the coil got a bit gunked up, I decided it was due for a dry burn to clean the coil. After removing the cotton wink and dry burn, I noticed that the wire was a very dull silver color. On my MVP 2.0 at 11 watts, the wire would dull a slight amount from their original sheen, but on the mech mod and pushing close to 20 watts, the wire turned a dull gray.
I thought maybe there was an issue with the 28 gauge Kanthal I bought, but when I tested that theory by building a 1.1 ohm coil with my (known good) 30 gauge wire and dry burning it on the Cronus clone, it also was dulled significantly.
Is this a non-issue, and just happening because of the higher power levels of a ~1.0 ohm coil fired on an unregulated mechanical mod? It seems to vape fine (except of course for a flavor or two that I vaped at 8 watts or less because anything much more than 8 started to taste bad), so that is what I am thinking. But I wanted to check with the people here to be sure.
I've gotten great results building microcoils at 2.0 ohms using 30 gauge Kanthal wrapped around a 3/64" drill bit. I've gone down as far as 1.4 ohms but found that my MVP works best at around 2.0 ohms.
I wanted to try a 1.0 ohm coil on my Cronus clone, so I bought some 28 gauge Kanthal and wrapped a microcoil around the same 3/64" drill bit, but reduced the coil count to hopefully hit 1.0 ohms. I mounted it on my Igo-L and it measured at 0.9 ohms -- not perfect, but still acceptable and safe with the Sony 18650VTC3 batteries I bought along with my Cronus clone at my local vape shop.
It vaped on the Cronus clone amazingly well. Tons more vapor, noticeably more throat hit, and just about the same flavor as with my 2.0 ohm coils vaped at 11 watts on my MVP 2.0.
After a while, when the coil got a bit gunked up, I decided it was due for a dry burn to clean the coil. After removing the cotton wink and dry burn, I noticed that the wire was a very dull silver color. On my MVP 2.0 at 11 watts, the wire would dull a slight amount from their original sheen, but on the mech mod and pushing close to 20 watts, the wire turned a dull gray.
I thought maybe there was an issue with the 28 gauge Kanthal I bought, but when I tested that theory by building a 1.1 ohm coil with my (known good) 30 gauge wire and dry burning it on the Cronus clone, it also was dulled significantly.
Is this a non-issue, and just happening because of the higher power levels of a ~1.0 ohm coil fired on an unregulated mechanical mod? It seems to vape fine (except of course for a flavor or two that I vaped at 8 watts or less because anything much more than 8 started to taste bad), so that is what I am thinking. But I wanted to check with the people here to be sure.
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