Hopefully this hasn't been covered before, if so, my apologies. Couldn't find much on this topic. Have the Ego-C with joyetech atty's. Read so much on how long they last and the range can be long or short. I think a lot of us use the atty until it just simply quits working, but I'm wondering. I've used one for about 6 weeks now. Have cleaned it twice via the Everclear method and has worked pretty good, I thought. Last night, I put in a new one and Holy Cow Batman, what a difference, anywhere from throat hit to taste. What exactly happened? Do the coils lose their efficiency over time? I had thought that the new one wouldn't have any slag or anything on the coil itself, but I've cleaned the old one a couple of times and worked OK. Do they just simply get worn out? I mean, they will still work per se, but not as good as a brand new one. How long are some of ya'll using an atty before you replace it? I mean, I hate to throw old a usable atty, but that difference was amazing and they aren't that all expensive, but it's the principal!!! I'm the old school of thought....if it ain't broke, don't throw it out and don't fix it! Curious as to what kind of life span some others are getting out of these atty's. Remember, these are joyetech and not those cheap imitations.
Ego-C atty life span
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As with any atomizer. The coil gradually looses it's efficiency through usage. It either looses/increases in ohms. For example, a 1.5 atty can become a 2 ohm atty through time. In contrast, a 2ohm atty can become a 1.1ohms. Some might see this as either being a good or bad thing. Either way the performance will change drastically. To what you perceive as a great vape turning into something that seems mediocre. A decrease in vapor production can also be another possibility.
That doesn't necessarily mean that's the case of course. The coil could be covered in old, burnt up e-liquid that can also effect performance. It's amazing what a little dry burn and rinse can accomplish. If done correctly then you will gain some of the positive aspects of the atomizer to return. The negative side of this is that it can also reduce it's lifespan. Also, if the dry burn is performed incorrectly. The coil can "burn out" or in other words become useless.
That doesn't necessarily mean that's the case of course. The coil could be covered in old, burnt up e-liquid that can also effect performance. It's amazing what a little dry burn and rinse can accomplish. If done correctly then you will gain some of the positive aspects of the atomizer to return. The negative side of this is that it can also reduce it's lifespan. Also, if the dry burn is performed incorrectly. The coil can "burn out" or in other words become useless.
You have to clean it first (make sure the piercing plate is off the atomizer). Then rid the atomizer of access fluid. This can be accomplished by blowing out the atomizer on both ends. After you finish this process, here are the steps you should take:
1. Put the atomizer onto either your ego or mod.
2. Press the button down for one second along with a one second break.
*****NOTE: If the whole coil glows orange instantly. Then you don't need to continue dry burning.********
Repeat this step a few times until you see some smoke starting to rise.
3. Give it a rest for a few minutes for the coil to cool down. This will prevent the coil from becoming overheated.
4. Repeat steps 2 &3 until the coil starts to glow orange. In the event that only one side is orange. Give it a bit of a rest before continuing. The reason for this is because the gunk build up is primarily on one side. If you continue dry durning. Then you can actually kill the atomizer.
5. If you have a gunked up coil. Then you will see the black substance turn into ash. You can then either take a toothpick or paper clip. LIGHTLY run it along the coil to loosen the ash.
6. Rinse the access off and remove the access liquid again.
7. Repeat steps 2,3,5, and 6 until the whole coil glows red immediately. This is the sign that your looking for to know that you are finished. Make sure that all the gunk is off. If not, then you will still taste the remnants of burnt juice that's stuck on the coil.
8. Let it dry for 24 - 48 hrs before priming and usage.
1. Put the atomizer onto either your ego or mod.
2. Press the button down for one second along with a one second break.
*****NOTE: If the whole coil glows orange instantly. Then you don't need to continue dry burning.********
Repeat this step a few times until you see some smoke starting to rise.
3. Give it a rest for a few minutes for the coil to cool down. This will prevent the coil from becoming overheated.
4. Repeat steps 2 &3 until the coil starts to glow orange. In the event that only one side is orange. Give it a bit of a rest before continuing. The reason for this is because the gunk build up is primarily on one side. If you continue dry durning. Then you can actually kill the atomizer.
5. If you have a gunked up coil. Then you will see the black substance turn into ash. You can then either take a toothpick or paper clip. LIGHTLY run it along the coil to loosen the ash.
6. Rinse the access off and remove the access liquid again.
7. Repeat steps 2,3,5, and 6 until the whole coil glows red immediately. This is the sign that your looking for to know that you are finished. Make sure that all the gunk is off. If not, then you will still taste the remnants of burnt juice that's stuck on the coil.
8. Let it dry for 24 - 48 hrs before priming and usage.
If you have an ultrasonic there's no real need to pull the spike plate off. Burn until it glows and toss in the cleaner after it's cooled. Use vodka in the cleaner and you don't have a long dry time either, just shake it off, prime and start vaping
Pulling the spike plate risks pulling out the wick which if it comes out all the way will junk the atty as much as breaking the coil if you can't get it back in. A cheap ultrasonic can pay for itself quickly.
Pulling the spike plate risks pulling out the wick which if it comes out all the way will junk the atty as much as breaking the coil if you can't get it back in. A cheap ultrasonic can pay for itself quickly.
I've cleaned with both methods and taking that plate off has been hit or miss because sometimes the wick doesn't go back in like I'd want it to and then end up with that burnt wick taste. Believe me, I've tried and I'm all for saving money, but for the price of a pack of the atty's, not sure it's actually worth it. I bet I got 3-4 of used atty's laying around that still work and I'm planning on cleaning them, but is it worth it and take that chance? Probably not.
I just got my ego-c attys in and it worked great the first time but after the first refill it started leaking. At first, I thought I might not have gotten it seated correctly but that wasn't it. The e liquid is coming out between the screw on sections.
Anyone else have this problem? How did you solve it?
Anyone else have this problem? How did you solve it?
Is this a Joyetech or other? Cone to base or base to battery?
The tolerances on my 2 Joyetech Cs are so tight I can't imagine anything but minor seepage coming out between the cone and base. Some times the atty is a tight fit so you may not have it screwed in all the way. Put it together without an atty to see how it should line up.
Does the cone get liquid in it if you don't puff on it?
If it gets liquid in it without puffing that's a leak. Try a different tank cap. Some have better luck with the silicone caps.
If it only gets excess liquid it in while you're puffing you're drawing too hard for the amount of liquid in the tank or the consistency of the liquid and flooding it.
I use the soft rubber ends and have no big leaks. Some of it will get out, but just like a thin coat, nothing like dripping. Sometimes you got to really push the tank on firmly until you hear the pop sound, I then twist it about a quarter turn.
I don't know if you'd call it a leak, or not, but the only time I see liquid outside the tank of my eGo-C is when I take the body off the battery and there's a small rounded puddle of liquid on the center contact of the battery. It's not enough to run down the threads, though, and a dab with a Q-tip will soak it right up.
Never had a leak to the outside, even through the 2 air slits where the body meets the battery switch assy.
Maybe I'm just lucky.
Never had a leak to the outside, even through the 2 air slits where the body meets the battery switch assy.
Maybe I'm just lucky.
durutti, what kind of atomizer are you using?
If it's one where you cannot remove the wick, like you can with an eGo-T or C, then it's difficult to see the orange glow under the bridge in a brightly lit area.
If yours is a regular bridge type, like a 510 or 901, then do your dry burn in a dark closet or at night. Only push the battery button for 2 maybe 3 seconds at most and release it for at least 10 seconds between burns to let the coil cool off.
If it's one where you cannot remove the wick, like you can with an eGo-T or C, then it's difficult to see the orange glow under the bridge in a brightly lit area.
If yours is a regular bridge type, like a 510 or 901, then do your dry burn in a dark closet or at night. Only push the battery button for 2 maybe 3 seconds at most and release it for at least 10 seconds between burns to let the coil cool off.
ego c
i didnt use a screwdrive I just removed the tank
i followed advice for 2-3 seconds every 10. but i think I have burnt taste now..
with my old ego t i think I could see the orange flame but didnt know when dry burn is exactly achieved
i didnt use a screwdrive I just removed the tank
i followed advice for 2-3 seconds every 10. but i think I have burnt taste now..
with my old ego t i think I could see the orange flame but didnt know when dry burn is exactly achieved
If you don't remove the spike the coil is hard to see.
The burnt taste is common right after a dry burn because of the ash left behind.
The recommended procedure for dry burning a "T" or "C" is:
The burnt taste is common right after a dry burn because of the ash left behind.
The recommended procedure for dry burning a "T" or "C" is:
- thoroughly rinse the head,
- remove the spike,
- do the dry burn 2 or 3 times,
- use a toothpick or some other non-metallic instrument to scrape off as much of the ash from the coil as you can,
- do a thorough water rinse followed by an alcohol rinse with a drinkable alcohol like Vodka or PGA to displace the water,
- replace the spike,
- prime head with 3 or 4 drops of your favorite liquid,
- assemble e-cig,
- give it 4 or 5 puffs without inhaling,
- now you should be good to go.
If it's wet with juice it can take a lot of button cycles to get it to start glowing. If it's been a long time with a juice that crusts up the coil it can take a long time to get to glowing and possibly a very long time to get an even glow.
I dry burn with the spike plate on and haven't had a problem seeing the glow at the edges and even sometimes through the wick.
I've had 2 attys die during a dry burn but they died at the start before there was any glowing so I imagine they were on their way out anyway. One was at its first cleaning, the other had been through quite a few. The later one just increased the ohms so far it would never heat up enough to glow, I wouldn't have known if I didn't check it and I would've been cycling the button forever trying to get it to glow.
so probably because i didnt see the glowing it was just already ready to burn? or is that taste you are talking about after the dry burn?
i washed it in alcohol before dry burn...
what happens if i dont remove the ash part with the toothpick?
i washed it in alcohol before dry burn...
what happens if i dont remove the ash part with the toothpick?
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