EGO error with rebuilt coils

[CloudZ]

Repost from EGO forum:

I have rebuilt 2 Kanger T3 heads several times, verified that the resistance is between 2 and 3 ohms, and the vast majority of the time my EGO just errors out. It's a quick blink when I hit the button then 3 blinks when I unscrew the atomizer head. Only about 3 of the 25 times I have tried a newly rebuilt coil it will actually fire, but as soon as I put the rest of the head together it will flash the error. ALL of these rebuilt coils have fired and worked just fine on my Vision Spinner. I also have a clone Phoenix V2 rba which has always worked on the Spinner, but very very rarely works on the EGO (same error). Stock cartos and T3 heads work fine on the EGO.

Any idea what the problem could be? I think the error means a short but I am almost positive I don't have a short, unless its the batt connection. It looks fine, no burrs or anything like that.

Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk 2


EDIT: I just rebuilt another T3 head and it is also not working on the EGO. My rba worked on it for a little while yesterday and now it is not. All the T3 heads are at 2 ohms and the RBA is at 3. Everything still working perfectly on the Spinner.

 

[asdaq]

Maybe it is compressing the insulator too much on either the the atty or battery?

 

[CloudZ]

Maybe it is compressing the insulator too much on either the the atty or battery?

Well, it does this regardless of how tightly I screw them together. Just barely making contact or snugged up good doesn't make a difference.

I don't see an insulator on the ego, is it internal?


Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[CloudZ]

Hmmm... This must be a very rare problem. Anyways, I *kind of* figured it out, I just have a strange ego battery. I tested my rebuilt atomizer heads on some egos at a local shop, they all worked fine. New battery on order, not sure what to do with the old one which only seems to work on non-modded equipment.

Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[asdaq]

I couldn't tell anything further. There is an insulator on the battery, and with egos they are hard to see. If anything, look for physical differences with what does work and what doesn't on it.

 

[jazon1]

might just be a bad ego battery,i have had a few knockoff egos that are just plain temperamental i would just use different attys on that battery or give it an early retirement.

 

[CloudZ]

might just be a bad ego battery,i have had a few knockoff egos that are just plain temperamental i would just use different attys on that battery or give it an early retirement.

This is what I am doing. Hopefully I have better luck with the next one. The old one can be a backup for stock coils and cartos.

Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[Thompson]

Is it an eGo-T?

Mine won't touch any RBA, be it CEs or my A7 or AGA-T. My eGo-C Twists will fire them fine however. They all meter in at usable resistances.

 

[CloudZ]

Is it an eGo-T?

I am not sure. I have tried my rebuilt coils on a couple ego-t batts and they worked fine. Mine says joyetech and I got it from litecigusa. Could it be a clone?

Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[Steam Turbine]

Repost from EGO forum:

I have rebuilt 2 Kanger T3 heads several times, verified that the resistance is between 2 and 3 ohms, and the vast majority of the time my EGO just errors out. It's a quick blink when I hit the button then 3 blinks when I unscrew the atomizer head. Only about 3 of the 25 times I have tried a newly rebuilt coil it will actually fire, but as soon as I put the rest of the head together it will flash the error. ALL of these rebuilt coils have fired and worked just fine on my Vision Spinner. I also have a clone Phoenix V2 rba which has always worked on the Spinner, but very very rarely works on the EGO (same error). Stock cartos and T3 heads work fine on the EGO.

Any idea what the problem could be? I think the error means a short but I am almost positive I don't have a short, unless its the batt connection. It looks fine, no burrs or anything like that.

Sent from my ADR6410LVW using Tapatalk 2


EDIT: I just rebuilt another T3 head and it is also not working on the EGO. My RBA worked on it for a little while yesterday and now it is not. All the T3 heads are at 2 ohms and the RBA is at 3. Everything still working perfectly on the Spinner.

Exact same thing happening to me with joyetech egos. My rebuilds are working just fine on non joyetechs egos. The only thing I can think of that is different between my coil and the stock protanks and evod is that I think they uses non resistant wires as the legs of the coil. If you look closely at the stock coil you will notice that the legs are a different gage as the actual coil.

Extremely frustated! these two brand new battery will end up right in the trash can, I dont care what the little "dispose of properly" logo etched on it says. This is the first and last time I buy true joyetech eGo's. The clones won the war!

 

[CloudZ]

Exact same thing happening to me with joyetech egos. My rebuilds are working just fine on non joyetechs egos. The only thing I can think of that is different between my coil and the stock protanks and evod is that I think they uses non resistant wires as the legs of the coil. If you look closely at the stock coil you will notice that the legs are a different gage as the actual coil.

Extremely frustated! these two brand new battery will end up right in the trash can, I dont care what the little "dispose of properly" logo etched on it says. This is the first and last time I buy true joyetech eGo's. The clones won the war!

I started this thread a while ago, but I still haven't figured it out. I don't even know for sure how the Joyetech Ego is detecting the rebuilt coils as different from the stock coils, but I do have an educated guess which relates to the coil leg wire.

It is possible that the NR wire creates a more stable connection against the positive pin and negative base flange. There may be just a tiny amount of additional resistance fluctuation when the legs are made of resistance wire. For some reason, the circuitry in the Joyetech Ego is sensitive enough to pick up on this fluctuation and error out. I don't know if this is intentional design or flawed unintentional design.

The only cases where I've heard of this are in this thread and one other ECF member who PM'ed me. So there are two possibilities: very few Joyetech Ego owners rebuild their atomizer heads then post online when it doesn't work, or this is a rare defect.

One other comment, the Ego-T's I tried my rebuilt heads on where at a local vape shop, and I am not sure if they were genuine Joyetech. They just said "EGO-T" on the side.

My only recommendation right now for users who find this thread looking for a solution to this problem is to only use your Joyetech Ego for non-rebuilt atomizer heads. Cartos and factory made attys should not be a problem at all. If this doesn't apply to you, and you only use rebuilt clearomizers for the majority of your vaping, buy a knockoff or Twist/Spinner/Winder/etc to replace it. You could try selling it for a few bucks or just give it away. Or just chuck it in the trash, but there are reasons why you shouldn't do that with lithium batteries.

 

[Steam Turbine]

I started this thread a while ago, but I still haven't figured it out. I don't even know for sure how the Joyetech Ego is detecting the rebuilt coils as different from the stock coils, but I do have an educated guess which relates to the coil leg wire.

It is possible that the NR wire creates a more stable connection against the positive pin and negative base flange. There may be just a tiny amount of additional resistance fluctuation when the legs are made of resistance wire. For some reason, the circuitry in the Joyetech Ego is sensitive enough to pick up on this fluctuation and error out. I don't know if this is intentional design or flawed unintentional design.

The only cases where I've heard of this are in this thread and one other ECF member who PM'ed me. So there are two possibilities: very few Joyetech Ego owners rebuild their atomizer heads then post online when it doesn't work, or this is a rare defect.

One other comment, the Ego-T's I tried my rebuilt heads on where at a local vape shop, and I am not sure if they were genuine Joyetech. They just said "EGO-T" on the side.

My only recommendation right now for users who find this thread looking for a solution to this problem is to only use your Joyetech Ego for non-rebuilt atomizer heads. Cartos and factory made attys should not be a problem at all. If this doesn't apply to you, and you only use rebuilt clearomizers for the majority of your vaping, buy a knockoff or Twist/Spinner/Winder/etc to replace it. You could try selling it for a few bucks or just give it away. Or just chuck it in the trash, but there are reasons why you shouldn't do that with lithium batteries.

I came to the same conclusion as you. It has to be the NR leads. It's the only difference.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from the Modding Forum - Atomizer Mods