ego T atty leaks

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ProNoob

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Mar 10, 2011
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florida
Is everyone having this problem? One of my friends the egoT atty as well and his does the same thing.

When theres a small amount of liquid left in the tank (around 5 drops maybe) it leaks everywhere. Most of the time most of it will stay in the tank side of the atty and when you hold it battery side up to see how much juice is left you can see it dripping through the breathing tube on the side of the tank. Most of the time some of the liquid will make it it to the battery end and all over the battery threads. In extreme cases it will be enough to leak out of the side of the battery connection and all over your hand.

Im on my third tank and they has happened with every tank so far, it has even happened on the first time Ive used a tank. On the other two it usually happens after the first refill.

I thought there would already be a thread about this, but is there anyway to stop this from happening?

Other than this low level leaking, Im very satisfied with this product.
 

Justice

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I've heard the wick issue before and just can't see it being remotely possible. Sounds more like tanks not all the way in, or tank cap is not properly clicked on tank I've also heard of people using scissors and things to punch out hole instead of just inserting tank into atty. I've never had an issue with leaking follow the instructions and they work great. One other thing is it a genuine joye ? Have heard the cheap knockoffs are not as well made as the real mcoy
 

Credo

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Pop the bottom of your tanks.
Inspect the hole that the spike opens when you punch on a new tank...
Remove that little hanging chad if you haven't already.

You don't want to 'enlarge' the juice hole, but you do want it fully open and the chad out of the way.

Now there is less chance that your tanks aren't going down all the way and seating nice and tight. When you push in a tank, it should go all the way down to sit flat on the wick plate.

Also...these things can flood over time if you take hard drags. Remove the atty from the battery, pull out the tank...blow hard on both ends of the atty into a tissue to get out excess juice. Reassemble, take a few primer puffs.

If the thing keeps dumping juice on you, try taking lighter/slower drags, and avoid turning it upside down. Every time you expose the top of the wick to big gulps of air then cover it with liquid again...it can change the flow pretty drastically....leading to more primer puffs, then a gob of juice that floods the atty and ends up running into the battery.

It might need the wick fluffed up a bit.
I use a jumbo paper clip with one end bent into an L. Hook it under the wickplate and tug till it pops out.
Gently fluff (or even replace with PTB&silica rope) the wick, both top and bottom. Mine brush out barely touch the coil and over time burn off a bit so I find I need to go in every now and then and adjust it all...but you can experiment with this.

To get the wick plate back in, just put it on an empty tank...
Insert and push...if it doesn't go back in all the way, turn it a little and push again...keep doing this until it finds its original grooves and pops back in.

Also search the threads here and youtube for eGo T wick
You'll hopefully find where people have offered pictures, videos, and links to places where you can get wicking material and what not if you want to get into adjusting these things.

Or...just get a new one?

If they're frustrating you to no ends, but you like the tank concept...maybe give a mega atty with smart carts a try? These cost about the same as the T system, but use poly to a regular atty bridge instead of a silica wick. They also have these carts for regular size 510 atties as well (considerably less expensive than mega atomizers). These do require a syringe or needle tip bottle to easily refill.
 
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ProNoob

Full Member
Mar 10, 2011
21
2
florida
thanks for the replies, some good info here.

however, i dont understand how you couldnt have the cap clicked on all the way, its not something you can mess up its sits flush on the tank with no gap when it on all the way. Same thing with the tank inserted into atty, it has a plastic ridge on it that only lets it go so far down, if its not down all the way its really obvious.

The wick mod looks interesting, but shouldnt these things not leak right out of the box?

and I ordered my stuff from liberty flights, I didnt even know they mad knock off tank systems yet. I hope I got the real deal.
 

six

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The wick mod looks interesting, but shouldnt these things not leak right out of the box?

and I ordered my stuff from liberty flights, I didnt even know they mad knock off tank systems yet. I hope I got the real deal.

I should have also mentioned that it could just be your wick is out of place a little bit. Filling tanks 100% full can cause this by hydraulic pressure pushing the wick down the needle when the needle punctures a completely full tank. Vicki from cignot has a video tutorial on wick placement.

They shouldn't leak right away, but some do. It has been one of the two most prolific complaints I've read about the ego-t. - I got a little over 7 weeks out of my first two t attys before they began to leak. So, my experience was that they held up fairly well for me.

Liberty Flights is one of the very few vendors I have yet to purchase from, but I'm pretty sure they carry genuine joye products.
 

Credo

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That little chad can change the flow enough to create slow leaks, as the tanks are designed with no 'soft rubber' seals in them. They do have an 'air seal' design that works well provided it is seated tight.

Mine does flood really bad with some juices, not at all with others.
It usually happens towards the end of a tank...when I'm trying to prime it after some dry hits...boom...it all runs through in one big pool and sits in the atty cup or drains through the battery hole.

To avoid this, I don't wait till it is empty to pop on a new tank or refill.

For me...I mainly find that drawing too hard/long floods mine almost every time....

Yep, should just work, or at least be 'easy' to make adjustments to the wick...as it makes sense that such a device can not be expected to work with every juice out there without adjustments.

I wish they'd do one with variable air flow and wicks somehow. Easier to tweak to individual juice and user preferences. Maybe someday :)
 

Justice

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Cutting the Chad off is likely to bugger up th hole. All my tanks have the Chad still on. It can't possibly affect flow or make it leak just look at the physics of it when properly inserted the Chad is pushed aside. Like I said all mine are still yanking in there with no leaking. It's an amazingly simple thing that works well if it's not over thought about. Sometimes simple is best.
 

Credo

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Cutting the Chad off is likely to bugger up th hole. All my tanks have the Chad still on. It can't possibly affect flow or make it leak just look at the physics of it when properly inserted the Chad is pushed aside. Like I said all mine are still yanking in there with no leaking. It's an amazingly simple thing that works well if it's not over thought about. Sometimes simple is best.

The first tanks that came out had very thick punch-outs and many people weren't getting them punched through all the way. The chad inspection process was tested by a few vendors and has worked for many.

In fact, it helped me a great deal in my eGo T saga. They threw juice everywhere until I clipped out the chads. Physics or not...it helped. My tanks fit in without me having to hit the dang things with a hammer every time to get them all the way down.

'Overthinking' comes into play when a user fills it with juice, puts it together, and it doesn't work well....
 
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V8P

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Mar 20, 2009
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OK, so I finally changed out my atty last night with a brand new one (that I cleaned by boiling). I used the same cart that was leaking on my other atty, filled it with the dark juice that I suspected was the culprit. Lo and behold....this atty didn't leak. Long drags, a few drops left in the tank didn't make a difference...it just didn't leak. This is leading me to believe that it has nothing to do with carts at all. Maybe the position of the wick, but not carts. Just my opinion.
 

orion7319

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OK, so I finally changed out my atty last night with a brand new one (that I cleaned by boiling). I used the same cart that was leaking on my other atty, filled it with the dark juice that I suspected was the culprit. Lo and behold....this atty didn't leak. Long drags, a few drops left in the tank didn't make a difference...it just didn't leak. This is leading me to believe that it has nothing to do with carts at all. Maybe the position of the wick, but not carts. Just my opinion.

The carts can leak when the caps get worn a bit. I have a couple of caps that when I put them on a filled tank and lay the tank down they will leak all over the place. So far I haven't had much of an issue with leaking Attys.
 

V8P

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The carts can leak when the caps get worn a bit. I have a couple of caps that when I put them on a filled tank and lay the tank down they will leak all over the place. So far I haven't had much of an issue with leaking Attys.
OK but, I was using the same cart that leaked in the first atty on another atty and I never got a leak....same cart, same dark juice. Your point about the worn caps is still valid but, it wasn't in my case. Do you vape dark juices?
 

Credo

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Checking the tanks is simply one step in a trouble shooting process. Many new users just didn't push it down enough to 'punch' it well enough for the wicks to work properly, yet it did pop the seal enough for juice to leak out. Having people check that chad and remove it is just one way to ensure from a distance that that's not the problem.

The next thing is flooding of the atty. This can happen when the wick isn't fluffed enough, or not touching the coils under the wick plate. People with these problems tend to draw harder, trying to get a good vape. Juice keeps sucking down into the atomizer until it floods. OR, the wick is just in a bad positioin, and the juice is MISSING where it's supposed to go all-together....dripping it into no-heat land.

That sucking also creates a siphon that can drain an entire tank in seconds....down into your atty! A lot of it will soak into the foam like material around the atty (this is just there as a safety to prevent these leaks from getting all over you and your stuff).

So...if you know it's not the tanks...
It's gonna be the wicks...and draw type.

Find a jumbo paper clip and straighten half of it out.
Bend a small L in it.
Tuck that between the edge of the wick plate and cone on either side where there is some space.
Turn it so it hooks under there.
Pull.......it might take a few tries so don't give up if it doesn't come out easily. You're NOT going to break anything at this point...so have at it.

Once you get it loose...look at the wick in it.
Is it all burned and gooey, or still fresh and new looking?

If it's burnt and gooey...gently wash it, fluff it up into a brush and possibly push it up a little further into the wick plate...but not much...go tiny bits at a time till you find the sweet spot! In this case, it's most likely that one of your thicker juices has just gummed it up so much that it's not wicking well anymore. Juice is running down and around to the edges and outside of the little ceramic bowl instead of down into it or onto the coils.

If it's fresh and new looking...that means it probably adjusted too short or just pointing the wrong way! Again, juice isn't making it to where it needs to be. Fluff the wick up, and pull it out of the wick plate a bit so hopefully it'll barely touch the atty coils.

Now, while you're in there...consider this. Last time you attempted to vape, did you find the draw extremely tight? If so....look at the coils down in the atty bowl. Is there gunk built up around it? If so...very carefully clean around the coil with a toothpick...or even give the thing a good soaking to loosen it up. Once you know it's not all gunked up...look at the coil itself. Is it directly over the air hole in the center of the bowl? This is optional, and you must be VERY CAREFUL, but it will prevent tight draws from happening as quickly in the future. Take your toothpick, and very gently push the coil a little to one side or the other. Not much...just a tiny bit...so no wire is sitting directly on the hole.

Stick the wick plate spike into an empty tank, and re seat the wick plate by pushing, and twisting little bits until it finds it's old grooves. It'll pop right back down to whence it came...just be patient...it shouldn't take much more foce than popping on a new tank once you've found the old grooves.

Now that you know how to get in and work with the wick....
Experiment...
If you need...you can make your own wicks from silica rope and/or Pyramid Tea Bag material. Doing a search for threads on 'eGo T wick' should point you to several tutorials on how to make your own wicks.

Based on my experience with a pair of eGo T atomizers and tanks:
Drag types on the eGo T are important.
Once the wicking is set up so it's the right length and juice will flow over it's surface...
You have to find its sweet spot, and be fairly consistent.
If you drag too hard, it'll flood.
If you don't drag hard enough...you can get dry hits.

If you do need to do primer puffs sometimes to get flowing after the occasional dry hit...take it easy...don't suck it hard enough to create a siphon effect that'll suck the entire tank through.

Some atomizers perform much better than others right out of the box....some are more forgiving than others...some work great when new and get worse...some don't work so well when new and gradually turn into the ultimate vape.

If you like the draw type of the eGo T (once you figure it out), and the way the tanks work...the vape quality can be really nice and well worth the trouble. Good luck and happy vaping.

Hope this helps.
 
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orion7319

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OK but, I was using the same cart that leaked in the first atty on another atty and I never got a leak....same cart, same dark juice. Your point about the worn caps is still valid but, it wasn't in my case. Do you vape dark juices?

No I avoid the dark juices with the tanks as they gum up the wick faster. You can get leaking from three places with the ego t's. The first from the needle plate into the atty if the wick is too low. The second place is from the hole in the cap if it gets worn to big. The third is from the grove on the underside of the cap where it snaps onto the tank. I have only gotten leaking from the grove being worn out. To fix problem #1 do what Credo is saying. Pop the needle assembly off and take a toothpick or a needle or something and push the wick back into the needle plate some more. The ideal height seems to be to have the top of the wick hat located just flush with the top of the needle spike, at the low end of the bevel cut. While you have it apart clean the atty and the wick. To clean the wick, take a lighter and burn it. Keep hitting it with a flame until I glows red. This will burn all the gunk off of it. You can't burn it up because it's a silicate rope and will melt at a couple of thousand degrees. When it turns white it is clean. Next dry burn the atty while the wick is still off. Then I like to do what Credo suggests and clean the bowl with a needle. Next step is to Rinse the atty in hot water. Then I like to take the needle and wick and rinse it under the faucet on low flow. This will straighten out the wick so it only touches the atty when you put it back together, and you risk messing the wick up if you touch it too much... hence use water. Next put the needle plate and wick back into the atty. Slide it in as far as you can and then push it back into place until it snaps back in. I like to use a 1/4 nut driver for this.
I also have some spare caps coming to me from Totally Wicked. They seem to be the only vendor that gives you spare caps with your ego t type B tanks (though they charge more per tank) When the caps wear out it's nice to have spares. Also to reduce the wear and tear on the tanks fill them with a syringe or something though the whole. I didn't have any syringes but found these tonight at my local Michales. Testors® Precision Gluing Tips They seem to work great with my 5ml squeeze dropper bottles.
Hope all this helps.
 
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tsbrewers

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Well I tried pushing the wick down and cutting the extra plastic off.. doubt this will do anything but ill post back.

NO, you do not want to push the wick down (towards the battery) that is normally what the problem is. You need to pull it UP, towards the tank. Some people fish around with a paper clip, or something like that, but I find it much easier to just remove the entire plate, then push the wick up a little in the piercing tube. While you are in there, burn the wick with a lighter to clean it up, put a drop or two of liquid on it, then re-install it. This completely fixed the leaking issue I was having.

Brew
 

KJ22

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Mar 7, 2011
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Checking the tanks is simply one step in a trouble shooting process. Many new users just didn't push it down enough to 'punch' it well enough for the wicks to work properly, yet it did pop the seal enough for juice to leak out. Having people check that chad and remove it is just one way to ensure from a distance that that's not the problem.

The next thing is flooding of the atty. This can happen when the wick isn't fluffed enough, or not touching the coils under the wick plate. People with these problems tend to draw harder, trying to get a good vape. Juice keeps sucking down into the atomizer until it floods. OR, the wick is just in a bad positioin, and the juice is MISSING where it's supposed to go all-together....dripping it into no-heat land.

That sucking also creates a siphon that can drain an entire tank in seconds....down into your atty! A lot of it will soak into the foam like material around the atty (this is just there as a safety to prevent these leaks from getting all over you and your stuff).

So...if you know it's not the tanks...
It's gonna be the wicks...and draw type.

Find a jumbo paper clip and straighten half of it out.
Bend a small L in it.
Tuck that between the edge of the wick plate and cone on either side where there is some space.
Turn it so it hooks under there.
Pull.......it might take a few tries so don't give up if it doesn't come out easily. You're NOT going to break anything at this point...so have at it.

Once you get it loose...look at the wick in it.
Is it all burned and gooey, or still fresh and new looking?

If it's burnt and gooey...gently wash it, fluff it up into a brush and possibly push it up a little further into the wick plate...but not much...go tiny bits at a time till you find the sweet spot! In this case, it's most likely that one of your thicker juices has just gummed it up so much that it's not wicking well anymore. Juice is running down and around to the edges and outside of the little ceramic bowl instead of down into it or onto the coils.

If it's fresh and new looking...that means it probably adjusted too short or just pointing the wrong way! Again, juice isn't making it to where it needs to be. Fluff the wick up, and pull it out of the wick plate a bit so hopefully it'll barely touch the atty coils.

Now, while you're in there...consider this. Last time you attempted to vape, did you find the draw extremely tight? If so....look at the coils down in the atty bowl. Is there gunk built up around it? If so...very carefully clean around the coil with a toothpick...or even give the thing a good soaking to loosen it up. Once you know it's not all gunked up...look at the coil itself. Is it directly over the air hole in the center of the bowl? This is optional, and you must be VERY CAREFUL, but it will prevent tight draws from happening as quickly in the future. Take your toothpick, and very gently push the coil a little to one side or the other. Not much...just a tiny bit...so no wire is sitting directly on the hole.

Stick the wick plate spike into an empty tank, and re seat the wick plate by pushing, and twisting little bits until it finds it's old grooves. It'll pop right back down to whence it came...just be patient...it shouldn't take much more foce than popping on a new tank once you've found the old grooves.

Now that you know how to get in and work with the wick....
Experiment...
If you need...you can make your own wicks from silica rope and/or Pyramid Tea Bag material. Doing a search for threads on 'eGo T wick' should point you to several tutorials on how to make your own wicks.

Based on my experience with a pair of eGo T atomizers and tanks:
Drag types on the eGo T are important.
Once the wicking is set up so it's the right length and juice will flow over it's surface...
You have to find its sweet spot, and be fairly consistent.
If you drag too hard, it'll flood.
If you don't drag hard enough...you can get dry hits.

If you do need to do primer puffs sometimes to get flowing after the occasional dry hit...take it easy...don't suck it hard enough to create a siphon effect that'll suck the entire tank through.

Some atomizers perform much better than others right out of the box....some are more forgiving than others...some work great when new and get worse...some don't work so well when new and gradually turn into the ultimate vape.

If you like the draw type of the eGo T (once you figure it out), and the way the tanks work...the vape quality can be really nice and well worth the trouble. Good luck and happy vaping.

Hope this helps.


Great Ego-T advice! detailed and informative.
 
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