EHPro EA MOD Tips, Tricks and Upgrades???

[AngryCagen]

Hello awesome ECF Community! You have been very informative, humble, eye-opening, educational, interesting, super-knowledgeable and so much more......And I just wanted to take the time out to say thanks for all the great input and welcoming new members and teaching them thru their silly first questions like."Why can't I get my 18650 to fit in my ego, it must be a defect"..........OK,maybe the questions don't get that bad, but you veterans have probably got to have your top 3 of all time........So thanks guys!. How you stay humble and follow through with the correct answer takes a lot a patience and a few more vapes.......on a fully charged battery....haha

So I recently bought the EHPro EA mod and I can't believe how great it has been working This is my second mod and it has been night and day from the first.

I know there are several others out there that already own this steam locomotive and have done their share of tweaks and little upgrades. So I was wondering if you could pass on the knowledge. I have heard of using magnets, but have never used them before and maybe that is a route to take beside the kick. All feedback would greatly be appreciated as usual. Also, the firing pin is brass and I was wondering if someone could break down the metals from lowest to the top performing.

 

[DavidOck]

Nice mod, well made. Not much needs to be done to it for it to work well.

NO magnets, not advised or needed. I do run a Kick in mine, as I prefer the regulation to un-regulated.

Info I got when I got mine was that the contacts were gold plated (probably 1 molecule, flashed not plated), so don't sand or file them. Maybe just buff off with a soft cloth now and then. And put a small amount of NoAlox (or equivalent) on the tube threads. Helps with both conductivity (contains zinc) and to prevent galling of the stainless.

Best conductors are silver, copper and gold, in that order. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc (mostly), so ranks pretty high. IIRC, higher on the list than stainless, and that, of course, is what the return path is made of - i.e. the tube itself

 

[AngryCagen]

thanks David. I am going to get a KICK for mine, I am just trying to see if I need to shell out the extra 20+ bucks for the KICK 2. I do notice my firing pin heats up after a good vape on 0.5 builds or lower. And that is with the new Sony IMR 18650 2100 mAh. I did the math considering the max output was 30 amp (4.2/30) and found the lowest build to be safe would be 0.14 ohm, which I don't ever go near. I try to keep it in the .5 to .8 range. And I only like to use the IMR Sony batteries. A little more pricey, but safer. Thanks for the great tips and man, what a great MOD. the threads are as smooth as you can get. They don't have that fingernail chalkboard sound on the twisting and its been a pleasure. Vape On...Safe On!

 

[DavidOck]

Yeah, just a question of whether or not you want the higher watts of the 2.

And sounds like you've done your homework on battery safety. Good deal! Not something you want to pinch pennies on, that's for sure!

And warm to the touch? Well, just turn on that 5 watt night light for a minute and touch it....

 

[AngryCagen]

I have spent most of my vaping time on battery safety, and still read on it daily. And I am still learning about the watts and how it effects the vaping experience. I just built my RSST and it came out with a 0.58 build and I have a 1/8 hole drilled and I have not had such a pleasurable vape as far as flavor, vapor and all around draw from it as I have had with most of my RDA's. It chucks the vape and the flavor is right there along with the perfect temp. And I just got a new ANyVape Davide and threw it on my VAMO 5 and that has been working like a beauty. I keep telling my wife.......I am just having one of those perfect vape days. Where everything is just working better than my expectations.

And your right about the KICK. I need to do my homework and see if it would even benefit me. Since I usually just vape between 0.5 and .9 ish on my Mech MOD, I probably wouldn't have to much use for it since I believe it only works betweem 1.3 ohms and 3.0 ohms. And in that case, I just use my VAMO, which is what I have been doing by thus far. On my VAMO, I tend to keep it at 3.7 Volts and the Watts I keep around 8 or so. I have went higher on the Watts and noticed more vapor production, but the burn taste seems to come along with it. So I back it down and park it at 8.

 

[bkharmony]

Magnets are not going to work on your EA. You should certainly look into a light sanding of every contact, though. It is also possible to shortent he switch throw.

 

[AngryCagen]

if I sanded it, would that go against me? I was under the impression that it was gold plated brass contacts. So If I sanded the contacts, I would be sanding of the gold..........and the gold is one of the higher quality conductivity metals, right? Or does a real light sand, say maybe a 400+ grit paper do the trick without harm? Thanks.

 

[DavidOck]

Don't sand it. Gold is third on the conductivity list, higher than brass. It's primary benefit is that it doesn't tarnish, corrode or otherwise change it's conductivity. Just wipe with a soft cloth when you think it needs it. Maybe a pencil eraser for tough spots. ANY sanding will remove it, as I'm sure it's not a heavy gold plating, just flashed, so it's going to be really thin...

 

[AngryCagen]

Great info! Thanks a Million!.

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[classwife]

Moved to APV Discussion from New Members

 

[AngryCagen]

Noticed the side fire button gets hot during a chain Vape. Not I pulled the battery right out n its as cool as a cucumber... any suggestions???

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[DavidOck]

Clean the inside button and post? (Buff out with a soft cloth, no sanding.) Might help...

 

[AngryCagen]

I did David. Still gets hot. It may just be this patriot clone. I have the Cartel Stillare on the way and a tobh Atty....so hopefully it works better with better quality setups.

Also. What the lowest you can build for the kick to work?

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[DavidOck]

The original Kick works from 5 to 12 watts, and iirc, the Kick 2 goes to 15 watts. With a single battery, fresh of the charger at 4.2 volts, that would limit you to a coil just over 1Ω [(V*V)/Ω = W]. (1 Ω would be just a tad over 17 watts, beyond range of the Kick2.)

Of course, that voltage will fall off with use. And if you're using stacked batteries, voltage will of course be higher. But I don't think the Kick would like that voltage at all...

If you're sub-ohming, you may not be able to Kick your mech - and may not even want to. I'm no expert there, keep all my coils around 1.5 for my tanks, and around 1.8 to 2.5 for my clearos. Gives me the flavor and vapor I want, so I've just never bothered going lower. (And not at all dissing those who do. We all have different tastes, and don't have to like the same things! I like rare steak, my wife likes her's well done. Which is better depends on whose plate it's on )

Maybe check the nut holding the button in? Since that's what actually makes the button connection to the tube, if it was a bit loose, it could be a high resistance connection causing the heat...

 

[AngryCagen]

Great point. I actually just did a complete clean and have a nice soft cloth low amount of anti oxidant grease on all contacts and the threads and the button does not get as near hot as it did before.

I love the warm Vape and flavor the RDA gives....but its a neck race for my all day Vale between my mech mod with a 0.9 ohm and my vamo with my anyvape davide 2.3 ohm and I switch that tank out with my aerotank with 2 of the air hole drilled out 1/16" at 1.7 ohms...

They do have some nice VV/VW APV that can handle sub ohms and my all day Vape of choice...I just have not found the funds to dish out for the ones I like....n there is always a better one that comes out the next month....its like cell phones.....lol

Thanks for the input... have a good one!

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