ERLK clone leaks when filling
- Thread starter oplholik
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I might try both tonight. My Origenny kept going up in flames
I tried googling this, but it seems I'm the only person who has managed to set mesh on fire.So I've just joined Victor's hall of fame.
An old credit card is good. You need a non conductive material (not metal).
Will pull the Trigger this Weekend probably. Will be sure and post my findings 
WoToFo makes good stuff on par with Infinite when it comes to Clones as well as their Authentic Freakshow and FS Mini are well respected rda's. Should be a quality Piece.
We shall see.
WoToFo makes good stuff on par with Infinite when it comes to Clones as well as their Authentic Freakshow and FS Mini are well respected rda's. Should be a quality Piece.
We shall see.
Placed Order with vape95 for the WoToFo EK Clone.
$39.95 including Priority Shipping.
Soon as arrives will check it out thoroughly comparing to the Authentic. Then Build, Fill, and Engage.
Letcha know Results and Thoughts afterward.
$39.95 including Priority Shipping.
Soon as arrives will check it out thoroughly comparing to the Authentic. Then Build, Fill, and Engage.
Letcha know Results and Thoughts afterward.
I have ordered and received a bunch of O-rings, and one size I got is a 2 X 1mm. I installed one and it seems a good size to do this with. I don't run sub ohm, and I don't know how hot it gets in that area, but I think I'll give it a try. What do you think?
I've done it on several attys with no issues. You should be fine.
I got my Erlk clone rebuilt using the new O-rings I got. I think the sizing of the O-rings is a bit off to an auth. erlk because the tube was a ....* to get on as it fits really tight over the new rings. The top and bottom o-ring is supposed to be 17X1mm, and the bottom one kept wanting to pinch up as I was trying to get the tube over it, but finally made it. On my clone, the o-rings that were on it, the top o-ring is smaller than the bottom, so maybe needs a 16X1 mm, or maybe 16mm for both. Any way, got it together, and filled it while leaving the afc completely off, and it didn't leak a drop. So now I think I'll find a local hydraulics shop and see if I can get some 16X1mm O-rings.
I have re-filled my erlk clone several times now after replacing the O-rings by just opening the fill holes, and have not had a drop of juice leak out. So, it seems the O-rings solved the problem.
Thank you so much for your post!
Last night I decided to sit down and try to build this ErlK clone I've had for quite awhile. This was my first attempt at building an RTA. After a lot of swearing and frustration, I finally got the coil on that tiny deck and got it wicked. I was feeling pretty good about getting that far so I filled it up and started vaping. I got lots of gurgles and then all this juice started leaking out the airflow holes all over my hand and my mod.
After cleaning up the mess, I came to ECF and started looking for answers when my eye caught this thread. I saw your post and started all over using your technique and it worked perfectly! No leaks and I'm actually getting a good vape, so I guess I managed to wick it pretty well for a first attempt. It's great to have a place where someone always has the answers you need.
@Oregon Linda
Glad I could help. I read that technique somewhere here myself.
Are you having any problems with the wicking? There's a trick to wicking the Ehrl as well also stemming from the unique pressure feeding system.
You need to cut the wick even with the deck, then fan the ends out and snip off the bottom half of the fan leaving the shoulders big and puffy and the end you stuff down the juice channels thin and whispy. Just a tiiiiny bit of cotton in the channels and huge muscleman shoulders. Do that and you'll never have a dry hit.
Glad I could help. I read that technique somewhere here myself.
Are you having any problems with the wicking? There's a trick to wicking the Ehrl as well also stemming from the unique pressure feeding system.
You need to cut the wick even with the deck, then fan the ends out and snip off the bottom half of the fan leaving the shoulders big and puffy and the end you stuff down the juice channels thin and whispy. Just a tiiiiny bit of cotton in the channels and huge muscleman shoulders. Do that and you'll never have a dry hit.
@hypocritelecteur
Luckily, I skimmed through that long ErlK thread and found this post by Cloud Hunter with a nice picture of that wicking technique:
The Erlkönigin : PICTORIAL | Page 72 | E-Cigarette Forum
So I looked at that picture while I was wicking and tried to get mine looking like his. I used rayon instead of cotton though, as I like the taste better. But I seem to have got it right. It's wicking good, and I've vaped most of that tank without any dry hits. The way this RTA is made, it looks like you could vape it almost all the way down to the bottom without dry hits.
What I'm still trying to get used to, though, is the tight draw. I'm definitely a tootle puffer, but I'm used to a looser airier draw because I mostly vape GS Air and Nautilus tanks. I wish the Erl came with a little bit wider drip tip and bigger air holes. But I'm sure I'll get used to it.
Actually, the clone I got is from Fasttech and has a different airflow. It's a slider at the bottom of the tank similar to what's on a Nautilus. So I don't think it can be removed. Fasttech lists it as an EK v.2. It also has a glass tank and is smaller - 4 ml as opposed to 7.
$12.34 EK V2 RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (4.0ml) - glass + stainless steel / 21mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Ahh, that's not really the same product at all then.
If you're going to go with clones shoot for the 1:1s. They still might be marginally off the original but the advice you get for a 1:1 clone should still apply.
Anything else is going to be tough to troubleshoot.
If you're going to go with clones shoot for the 1:1s. They still might be marginally off the original but the advice you get for a 1:1 clone should still apply.
Anything else is going to be tough to troubleshoot.
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