Evic Q: would a battery change help? or is mine not up to snuff?

[pirgulation]

Well I'm a 'semi-proud' new Evic Geek owner/operator. I hadn't until recently started playing with all the different tanks/attys etc I have amassed in this short period. But I do however own an inline volt meter, and that gives me a bit of an idea how many amps/watts etc I'm pushing.

Factory stock Evic with the pepto pink battery:
*FULLY* charged (Doesnt change any really plugged in or not) - fwiw - the below test was ran plugged in.

On a new 2.4Ω atomizer (old style 510) I can actually get pretty close to the volt/wattage limits.. But on just about everything else, it doesnt even get close =/

2.4Ω 510 atty - 4.8v / 9.6w 2A

Vision Vivi Nova @ 1.8Ω - 4.12v / 9.43w 2.28A @2.4Ω / 4.8v 2A 9.6w

Protank 3 / Aerotank @ 2.0Ω 4.24v / 8.98w 2.12A

The only thing I can actually get to hit 5v is a 2.8Ω coil for the above viva nova vision tank.. It actually will hit the 5v cutoff, which is neat.. BUT thats on a 2.8Ω

Another oddity.. Since I can hit 5v on the 5v setting w/ the 2.8, (obviously thats way too high for this setup) BUT this was just a test..

Setting V. Actual output
4.5v = 4.2v
4.6v = 4.3v
4.7v = 4.45v
4.8v = 4.6v
4.9v = 5v
5v = 5.15v

Please lets not get into a debate on whether or not I should be at 10/11 watts or not, that is not the issue.

My gripe is that on the dual coil rig like the PT3/AT - It's not pushing above 4.2-4.3. Would a better battery help this? AW IMR over the factory pink samsung?

The other 'somewhat' big deal I have is,, I have some just Ego VV big pen type batteries (1200mah/1300mah) VV/VW ,, and I can max those out and they push quite a bit more power than the Evic does on the dual coil rigs..

Anywho I really like the way the PT3/AT dual coil performs up closer to 10w,, I CAN get 4.6-4.7v out of my Ebay knockoff 25$ Ego VV2 1200mah on the Protank 3 @ 2Ω (11w/2.34A) ,, but not this new Evic! (Dont get me wrong - I'm not saying I HAVE to be over 8-9w, but I have found a couple liquids I do like up around 10w. Maybe I'm just a freak of nature - BUT thats what I turn to when I have the analog craving =/

So.. Should I call where I got it from (or) Joyetech? Or just look for a better battery?

 

[pirgulation]

Hmm so no one checks the output of their devices??

 

[Art02]

So you are not getting enough vapor? I am not sure what the problem is. Your voltmeter doesn't read the same thing as the Evic display?

 

[*deleon517*]

did u make sure your evic has the latest firmware. I know there were several updates to firmware that fixed a lot of factory issues.

I dont own a evic and dont really care to check my devices outputs after the inital time from opening the package. Once i know what the load drop off is I simply build a coil that will yeild my desired result. I vape by the logic of if its working for me, I don't over analyze it. If im not happy with the results I try something else out.

 

[Ryedan]

A better battery is not going to change the output of the Evic. You're bumping up against the 2 1/2 amp limit of the device. If you want more watts, you'll need to get a PV that will allow higher amps.

 

[pirgulation]

So you are not getting enough vapor? I am not sure what the problem is. Your voltmeter doesn't read the same thing as the Evic display?

That is correct - the Voltmeter isn't saying 'fairly' close to what the display is saying and or set to.

As for getting enough vapor - eh.. Its really only an issue on the dual coil stuff.

 

[BlueSnake]

I haven't used an Evic for quite some time, but I believe you're just hitting the amp limit. If it hasn't been updated that May help some.

 

[pirgulation]

I haven't used an Evic for quite some time, but I believe you're just hitting the amp limit. If it hasn't been updated that May help some.

After days of searching - I found an old thread (2012) that has a video/review posted.. The review essentially gos through and shows how unstable the evic is in terms of voltage etc. Theres something to be said when you tell it to go 4.4v and it puts out 4.6v.. or 4.2 and you get 3.8 essentially.. It's not always that extreme, but it is pretty bad sometimes.

I can't even get it to hit the amp limit unfortunately =(

 

[Rickajho]

That is correct - the Voltmeter isn't saying 'fairly' close to what the display is saying and or set to.

It never will. This is a PWM device, higher frequency than the regular 33 Hz for other Joyetech stuff, and regardless standard meters can't interpret the voltage output of PWM. A meter has to be built custom to correctly (as best "correctly" can be used here) read these. A regular meter is only giving you the one voltage it saw out of many possibilities happening.

 

[Mutescream]

Wow Pirg, haven't bumped into you on forum in a few years. Anyway, part of the problem is you are using an 18650 battery. You will need to use stacked 18350's, if you want to keep the current at higher voltages.

Remember, you are starting off with a 3.7v battery... Stepping up in votage causes current loss. When you have 7.4v at your disposal, you're stepping down in voltage, and you will be getting a current boost.

I know I get better performance out of my Vamo V3 with stacked 350s over a single 650, anyway. YMMV, make sure the evic can handle stacking.

edit: If you decide to do this, read up on what is necessary to do this safey. You will need to have identical matched pair batteries, meter them before and after charging and log the readings (monitoring for significant changes, and if the two batteries deviate between eachother by more than 0.1v). Which also means you need to mark your batteries. Another thing is you would also need to rotate which of the two batteries is on top each time you put in your mod. Up to you if it is worth the hassle to get the numbers and squeeze out the best performance you can.

 

[pirgulation]

Rick - thats an interesting explanation.. Apples to apples and 'settings' to 'settings' though it just doesn't perform.. Heck my ego vv 1200mah even outdoes it 'most' of the time on anything thats >nominal voltage.

Mute - yes definitely LTNS. I stack in my vamo / svd as well as in the huge.. It is WAY better. I hate to say it but everywhere I've read says not to stack on the evic =( Really dont feel like burning it up and making it MORE useless.

In 18350 I have 1 set of *fire I use for single 18350,a set of Feyate imr for running as single, 1 set of Efests for stacking, and 1 set of AW's for stacking. I figured I'd just have different branded/labeled ones from the git go and be able to not get them mixed up that way.

I only have a couple 'good' 18650s, (AW) & the one that came with the evic - but they dont get stacked so that doesnt matter,, then a bunch of cheapies I picked up 4x for 8$?

Then I currently have 2x 26650 stacked,, and 2 sony's on order to run as singles...

*thats I guess my separation method* Then just marker em 1&2 =)

 

[pirgulation]

Just a quick update.. I wrote the company I got it from bm place in texas.. Shortly after my voltage testing (and yes you can in reply to whoever said you can't accurately test pwm devices is wrong) any who after my testing and posts, the evic in question died.. The screen frazzled and never came back on.

Skyline replaced it since it was only a few days old..

I also bought another one that I found cheap cheap..

I now have 2 new ones, and guess what.. they test out almost exactly perfect on the voltage tests.. guess what - they also vape way better.. so I'd have to say it was just a shotty device..

I also have been given a pre production sample of the/a evic clone.. I'll probably do a quick review w/pics in the evic subforum

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

[milescadre]

I dont bother to check the output on my mod unless its a cheapo (30$ vamo, ie)

But I also know my multimeter has a +/- of 0.3v (cheapie harbor freight multimeter), and it would seem that all your readings in the initial post would be close to if not within spec of said meter.

Honestly, I wouldnt worry about what the multimeter is saying because theres a multitude of things that may or may not cause a meter to misread volts/ohms/amps, espeically if yourte readign a threaded rounded surface. If the mod is vaping correctly and the vape feels like it should at say 4.5v, I wouldnt worry.

Then again, I'm no expert =P

EDIT: just saw your last post; I'm glad you confirmed it was a defective device, and got it replaced. I just dont go through extreme lengths just to get trivial data =P If it doesnt work, I bringi t back to my shop. I also try my best to stress test it while I'm still in the shop (high output, chain vape, etc), and if it doesnt work right I dont buy it or I get my money back.

EDIT 2: on a interesting note, my meter says my vtr puts out 4.0v for half a second tghen drops to 3.2v when set for 4.6v =P but idk if its cuz the pwm messin with the meter (since the meter probably doesnt refresh fast enough). however, it vapes the exact same as a mech on 4.2v (fresh battery @ 4.2 on a mech, vtr set for 4.2, vapes the same, you can tell a difference cuz the pwm, but as far as heat, taste, and vapor quality goes, theyre identical)