Hi! Couple quick questions about Evod and Kanger coils, Long story to give all the details so here it goes, I bought a couple Evod tanks around 2 months ago, got a pack of 5 EVOD 1.8 coils to go with it, (i use the 1.8 strictly to save battery life for while I am at work). The 5 pack of Evod coils I had lasted ok times, I gave 2 to a friend. Anyway, my local shop owner says everyone is using kanger coils in both now you cannot get the evod coils, so i bought some of those, put a new one in my pro tank and used it with pluid for the first time, this was 2 days ago, and the coil needed replaced this morning. Is that common with pluid? I put a kanger 1.8 in my evod at the same time, it died today as well. Are the Kanger coils not as good as the evod ones or is this a coincidence? Should I do something to maintain them better? (the one in evod tank died RIGHT after filling the tank, although I never had an issues prior filling it with the other coils). I hope this is coinicidence as I bought 20 of the kanger coil replacements, because I use 2 evod tanks, my gf uses evod tank, and I have 2 kanger pros, and 2 kanger minis lol so lots of coils needed. Anyway any advice/thoughts is certainly appreciated
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Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for you.
I also use the 1.8 kangers and Evod heads in my Kangers. The only complaint I have so far is the ones I received last week. They are the "revamped" protank/Evod heads (long shaft for both). They now have a less airy draw in my opinion. This may be in my own head, but I dont think so. I have a rotation of about 8 of these. I do clean mine every 2 days minimum ( or the first sign of a burnt taste. They have been going strong for a long time (the older ones)
I also use the 1.8 kangers and Evod heads in my Kangers. The only complaint I have so far is the ones I received last week. They are the "revamped" protank/Evod heads (long shaft for both). They now have a less airy draw in my opinion. This may be in my own head, but I dont think so. I have a rotation of about 8 of these. I do clean mine every 2 days minimum ( or the first sign of a burnt taste. They have been going strong for a long time (the older ones)
evod coils (if the real ones) are kanger coils. Kanger makes the evod, T3S and protank coils.
QC, even from a name brand, can be inconsistent.
A quick rinse and a dry burn to remove the buildup is probably all you need. I will suggest getting some 1mm silica to replace the flavor wicks since you're going to lose them when you rinse the coils (or just get rid of the flavor wicks...).
rebuilding the coils is a snap also....
QC, even from a name brand, can be inconsistent.
A quick rinse and a dry burn to remove the buildup is probably all you need. I will suggest getting some 1mm silica to replace the flavor wicks since you're going to lose them when you rinse the coils (or just get rid of the flavor wicks...).
rebuilding the coils is a snap also....
I got a bad batch on my last shipment as well. The other box was fine though. (there were all long shafts. I read that Kanger has stopped doing the short tube ones. I can see why for inventory costs. To me it didn't make much difference that I could tell. The Evods always had a harder draw than the pro tanks, and still do)
My protank coils last longer then evod. I am not very impressed with the evod
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The Coil structure of all Kanger bottom coils is the same.
Same material
Same number of wraps for resistance selected
The only differences is in the Diameter of the Base and center pin Shape, neither of which will effect durability of the coil.
Certain e-liquids will degrade a coil(ANY COIL) faster. Don't ask me which, I don't get into all that yet.(Possibly acidic)
Same material
Same number of wraps for resistance selected
The only differences is in the Diameter of the Base and center pin Shape, neither of which will effect durability of the coil.
Certain e-liquids will degrade a coil(ANY COIL) faster. Don't ask me which, I don't get into all that yet.(Possibly acidic)
OK.
What do you mean by using 1.8 ohms to save battery life while at work? What would you use otherwise?
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Maybe that's not the whole question. What mod is this on and at what volts?
What do you mean by using 1.8 ohms to save battery life while at work? What would you use otherwise?
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Maybe that's not the whole question. What mod is this on and at what volts?
yeah, the higher resistance the more battery life you'll have dude.....for instance, say your ideal vape is 10 watts, right? If you run a 1.8 ohm coil at 4.24 volts to get there, you will have a 2.357 amp draw on your battery every time you fire it. However, if you run a 2.5 ohm coil at 5 volts to get there, you will have a 2 amp draw.
If you are only using ego type batteries you are probably stuck with 3.3 volts all the time, so as it is now you have a 1.8 ohm coil at 3.3 volts, so you have a 1.83 amp draw, and with a 2 ohm you'd have 1.65, 2.2 ohm 1.5 amp, 2.5 is 1.32... so the higher your ohms are the longer your battery will last, but if you dont have a variable voltage device, than switching to a higher ohm coil will not giive you as good a vape, so find the balance : ) I run my vv's with a 3 ohm SR carto, either at 10 watts or at 5.47 volts in VW mode...either way, my batteries last all of 2 days atleast, versus the half a day when using a 1.5 ohm coil....best thing is to download an ohm law calculator on your phone...watts is the heat you feel, volts is the power you need to get there, amps is the amount of juice your battery uses making this happen, and ohms is the resistance...good luck and happy vaping!
-Scott
If you are only using ego type batteries you are probably stuck with 3.3 volts all the time, so as it is now you have a 1.8 ohm coil at 3.3 volts, so you have a 1.83 amp draw, and with a 2 ohm you'd have 1.65, 2.2 ohm 1.5 amp, 2.5 is 1.32... so the higher your ohms are the longer your battery will last, but if you dont have a variable voltage device, than switching to a higher ohm coil will not giive you as good a vape, so find the balance : ) I run my vv's with a 3 ohm SR carto, either at 10 watts or at 5.47 volts in VW mode...either way, my batteries last all of 2 days atleast, versus the half a day when using a 1.5 ohm coil....best thing is to download an ohm law calculator on your phone...watts is the heat you feel, volts is the power you need to get there, amps is the amount of juice your battery uses making this happen, and ohms is the resistance...good luck and happy vaping!
-Scott
I only use Protank coils in my evod and my Protank. After I finish a tank I always clean the head and dryburn it. I can honestly say I have never had one die on me. They usually last me a month but I usually rotate 4 at a time.
I use 1.8 ohm coils (new long ones) with my Evods and Protanks. I find that with the ego battery (non adjustable) that I get a better vape with it. The 2.5's just were not cutting it. I now have a handful of 2.5 ohm coils to use when I buy a VV battery.
If you are drawing 10 watts, you are drawing 10 watts, and the battery should deplete at the same rate regardless of the resistance.
Where did you go wrong? You only look at current and assume there's no cost (in battery use) for the higher voltage, which is the other part of the power equation. In a modern mod, the Pulse Width Modulation duty-cycle will be longer with higher voltages. While the current may be lower with the higher resistance, the "on" time of the duty cycle must be longer to get the higher voltage the higher resistance requires to achieve the same power output. All other things being equal, the total power consumed from the battery should be equal with equal power output (the conservation of energy).
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What type of kanthal does anyone use in the evods? All I have is .25 (awg 30) and all I get is burnt taste regardless of wraps and voltage.
Can't you just remove the top shaft from older version and place it in the new version ?
Give it a try and see if the difference in shaft causes the airflow variation.
With AWG 30 you're building a very low resistance coil and that's why you get crummy taste.
Get some AWG 32 , lots of places including Ebay has it for close to nothing.
Can't you just remove the top shaft from older version and place it in the new version ?
Give it a try and see if the difference in shaft causes the airflow variation.
Yes, you can.
We think alike - and my VV ie en route!
Except that I got a bunch of short-stemmed heads, so I haven't even tried a protank coil on an Evod yet. Pulled one out and will give it a try tonight...
Except that I got a bunch of short-stemmed heads, so I haven't even tried a protank coil on an Evod yet. Pulled one out and will give it a try tonight...
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