Finally bought a mech and I have a few questions

[Vaslovik]

Thank you. This is going to seem like a stupid question but when you say "checked for ohms and shorts" is that just putting your atty on the ohm meter and making sure it reads correctly? What would indicate a short? Is there another way of checking for shorts before putting it on the mech?

If you put it on your ohm meter and it reads 0, you have a short. Don't put it on your mech until you get the coil right and it reads something like .82 or .73 or some other number. Once your ohm meter gives you a non zero number you are good to go, but you might not want to go with too low a number, like .25 or around there. That's pretty extreme. You might even want to start out with 1.0 or higher before venturing into sub-ohm territory. Also try different gauges of kanthal. 32 is a bit thin for an rba, 28 is a good place to start.

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

If you put it on your ohm meter and it reads 0, you have a short. Don't put it on your mech until you get the coil right and it reads something like .82 or .73 or some other number. Once your ohm meter gives you a non zero number you are good to go, but you might not want to go with too low a number, like .25 or around there. That's pretty extreme. You might even want to start out with 1.0 or higher before venturing into sub-ohm territory. Also try different gauges of kanthal. 32 is a bit thin for an rba, 28 is a good place to start.

Yeah I've been stocking up on rebuilding supplies since I started vaping. Knew I would eventually get into mechs and rbas/rdas. Got 28, 30, and 32. And I don't really see myself dipping below .7 ohms. Definitely don't want to get into super low (less than .5 ohms) territory.

 

[Kyi]

I vape 12mg normally but will try 6mg for my rba's if it starts feeling like too much. I suppose since you can take much bigger and dense hits, the hit will have higher throat hit and you'll ingest more nicotine.

I recommend 29 gauge. You can build something near sub-ohm but it's still versatile enough to get you higher resistance and be well within the safety range. You can get a pretty good 1-1.4 range with it, whereas 28 gauge is more for sub-ohm.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[ElConquistador]

Temco is a great place to buy your Kanthal...For example, 100 feet of 30 Gauge is $5.48 with free shipping.

 

[BuddhaAryi]

I'm so mad at my vendor I paid Monday they held it til yesterday n wont get til Monday or Tuesday never again

 

[Tom Fuller]

Thanks for that. One other question though...what strength of nic do you use in your drippers and kfl? I currently vape 18 mgs out of my carto tanks but from what people have told me at the vape shop they all step down to 6 mg for dripping.

If you are at 12-18 on a carto then 8-10 likely where you will be on a mech with an rba. I DIY my juice and am at 10mg on the Kayfun 6mg on the dripper and 16 in the nautilus.


Live Long and Vape!

 

[edyle]

One area of the mech mods I still feel uncomfortable with are hard shorts. I understand that a short is just the current traveling along an unintended path. I.E. not making it to the coil.

Anything touching the coil will cause this. Do shorts ever just spontaneously happen? If I wrap a coil, throw it on the ohm meter, and everything is ok....do I need to worry after that (well granted I don't drop it and damage the coils). What about shorts in the body of the mod? I've read a few threads around here about someone having a spontaneous short in the body of their mod. I believe it was the positive 510 pen touching the threading. He sanded it down and stopped this.

Anyways this is the one area that still freaks me out a little. Should I just purchase a short safety fuse to go in my stingray? And will there be any fitting issues? Do any of you stingray owners use a short fuse?

Oh and Bad thanks for everything. I've gleaned so much knowledge reading your blog posts.

After you wrap up a coil and test it, sometimes just assembling your tank can introduce a short; example: on a genesis or on a dripper, after you finish with the coil you put the top cap on; sometime putting on the top cap causes the coil to touch the inside of the top cap. With a regulated mod you can have the mod check ohms and the mod with detect it. With a mech, you can check it by removing the battery and testing with a meter with the whole tank assembled on the mech; exactly where you touch the meter probes would depend on the type of mod.

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

18 mg/ml on clearos down to 6 mg/ml on a well built dripper is a reasonable expectation.

18 mg/ml on clearos down to 12 mg/ml on a restricted airflow RBA is about right.

Everyone will experience the vape a little differently on any rebuild type atty, so if your flush with tons of high nic juice you might want to keep the devices you used that juice in around and in rotation till you have made a transition to the lower nic.

Maurice

 

[Verb]

Wick: I like to use cotton. Personally I'm not worried about organic or not because I can't taste the difference, but you might. My favorite at the moment is cellucotton. I bought it at a beauty supply store like Sally's. It's basically a long rope of cotton that's very easy to build with. 10 feet of cotton rope for $2.50

Dude, cellucotton is NOT cotton. It is rayon. Folks are loving is but just for the clarification.

 

[Tom Fuller]

Hmm we don't scorch rayon?


Live Long and Vape!