Just checked out Good Prophets website, ive never heard of them before and im glad you mentioned them. Thanks for taking the time to help me out, youve definitely made it easier for me to figure out what would work best for my taste. I ordered 100 ft of 32g kanthal on ebay and im getting some ss mesh from GP, cant wait to start vaping on the new setup.
- Status
Just checked out Good Prophets website, ive never heard of them before and im glad you mentioned them. Thanks for taking the time to help me out, youve definitely made it easier for me to figure out what would work best for my taste. I ordered 100 ft of 32g kanthal on ebay and im getting some ss mesh from GP, cant wait to start vaping on the new setup.
I got 32 guage AWG A1 Kanthal wire and 25 feet of 2mm Silica wick from the same seller so i can rebuild my own protank atomizers as well.
just be aware that with the MVP you will only be able to build from a certain ohm-up (for the VAMO, it's 1.2, for the provari, it's .8, although it performs better starting up at 1.2)
I also don't know how the MVP handles the power signal (many reviews on youtube for that), but something like Pulse-width is not that good for RBAs, you would have needed something like a Provari or a Buzz Pro or a Darwin (or a kicked tube-mod) to get the most of rebuildables, those things have a flat, constant power output
I also don't know how the MVP handles the power signal (many reviews on youtube for that), but something like Pulse-width is not that good for RBAs, you would have needed something like a Provari or a Buzz Pro or a Darwin (or a kicked tube-mod) to get the most of rebuildables, those things have a flat, constant power output
Please excuse me for being miss informed as the instructions I read were for the VV not the MVP. 
I did read somewhere about an update that never happened I guess.
I did read somewhere about an update that never happened I guess.
I use a Tankometer and if the PWM is bad than it won't read it. Reads the MVP fine.
The MVP has rock solid Voltage and great filtering.
The RBA should be built at minimum 1.8 OHM and above 3.2 Gauge with 4 wraps or even 5 on a normal RBA should do the trick.
32 Gauge is correct for that application.
I've never rebuilt a Protank and have no idea how it's done so I can't comment on the Gauge for that application.
The MVP has rock solid Voltage and great filtering.
The RBA should be built at minimum 1.8 OHM and above 3.2 Gauge with 4 wraps or even 5 on a normal RBA should do the trick.
32 Gauge is correct for that application.
I've never rebuilt a Protank and have no idea how it's done so I can't comment on the Gauge for that application.
I bought an Innokin iTaste SVD last night at a local vape shop. This is my first mod and so far I have no regrets. It feels solid and is very easy to use. I picked up 2 flat top Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries as well. Everything is working great so far.
never used an MVP so i can't comment
from my experience the VAMO is a no no for RBAs, doesn't matter if it's 1.5, 2 or 2.5 ohms i move the same Genny from a provari to a vamo, at the same volts (and also setting it to 15 watts) and it's way, way weaker, specially the time it takes to heat the coil
now it seems that a lot of chinese manufacturers are using the same chip, I DO NOT KNOW if this is the case of the MVP, but it does appear to be in the ZMax etc al
that plus a 10 second cut-off is why i dont like it for that application
for cartos & attys it's ok, but for the same price there are quite a few better alternatives nowadays.
P.D: I don't have a protank but i have a few EVODs, very similar (I believe even compatible heads) design, I use kanthal 30, 4 or 5 wraps.
with 32 you will be fine, you could use 3 or 4 for a 2 ohm or so resistance
I am thinking about making my first APV purchase also and I am wondering if it is that important to have the OHM meter? I am interested in the MVP and from what I read its about the only thing it doesn't have? Is it worth it to buy something "nicer" that has the OHM meter in it?
Any recommendations on what tanks to buy too?
Any recommendations on what tanks to buy too?
Kamicollo
For a beginner & cost effective RBA, its hard to go against the Smok RSST
An ohm reader is not essential but very useful indeed. You can always adjust to taste.
But most people who start this path, once comfortable find that they want to experiment with lower amps and maybe kanthal 28, microcoils, etc
why don't you get, for the same price, a tube mod (the Caravela clone is getting good review and you can get it for $28 until the ned on july, go to gotsmok.com for the links) and a sigelei kick clone? ($16 at that same site)
that way you can play either way (regulated vs unregulated) by removing or not the kick
Also, you can always buy an ohm reader for about $20 from madvapes
actually, here is the mod: http://101vape.com/mechanical/37-sigelei-8w-cara-clone.html
july20off promo code
same site for kick
For a beginner & cost effective RBA, its hard to go against the Smok RSST
An ohm reader is not essential but very useful indeed. You can always adjust to taste.
But most people who start this path, once comfortable find that they want to experiment with lower amps and maybe kanthal 28, microcoils, etc
why don't you get, for the same price, a tube mod (the Caravela clone is getting good review and you can get it for $28 until the ned on july, go to gotsmok.com for the links) and a sigelei kick clone? ($16 at that same site)
that way you can play either way (regulated vs unregulated) by removing or not the kick
Also, you can always buy an ohm reader for about $20 from madvapes
actually, here is the mod: http://101vape.com/mechanical/37-sigelei-8w-cara-clone.html
july20off promo code
same site for kick
Ohm reader is important depending on what you are doing. If you are doing an RBA than a Ohm Reader is very important.Whether built into the unit or separately.
If you are buying stock Atomizers/Clearomizers/Cartos than it's not important. It's very simple you start out at a low voltage maybe 3.5 than you keep raising it by .1 or .2 until you get to the vape that you like.
Ohm reader is nice but not that important. Also they sell separate Ohm Readers that are far more accurate. Or you can buy a inexpensive multimeter and test both Ohms and Batteries.
Back track a little...for Protanks, 32awg kanthal with a 5/4 wrap around 2mm wick will put you right at 2.4-2.5ohm. 5/4 wrap being 5 over the top.
I don't know much about any other application, but I've done a lot of Protank/eVod coils. Hope that helps.
I don't know much about any other application, but I've done a lot of Protank/eVod coils. Hope that helps.
I purchased in the following sequence; C-Twist, Vamo, E-Vic then Provari. Each have their own strength and weakness', but...
Vamo, imho, is just as solid and has better menu operation than Provari...especially for the money. As for tinkering, Im content with building coils and rba's. I use my Vamo or Evic for ohm meter (BEFORE filling tank!!!...learned the hard way...several times! lol). I do not like bottom feeders. But, I like a warmer throat hit, so I prefer top fed tanks and attys. Although I did purchase a multi meter, Ive rarely used it. As for mechanical mods, Ive only experienced a couple at my local vape shop. But Ive found that the vaping experience is no greater than with my own mods, therefore not worth the expense and/or risk of mechs...imho.
As I'm sure you are finding, ALL opinions are subjective and its all about what works for you. But, for now anyway, Im content with my mods, aga t's and Vision Vivi's (no other vivi's come close). I can tinker to my hearts content and dont fear hurting myself or my home. Best of luck, happy vaping!
Vamo, imho, is just as solid and has better menu operation than Provari...especially for the money. As for tinkering, Im content with building coils and rba's. I use my Vamo or Evic for ohm meter (BEFORE filling tank!!!...learned the hard way...several times! lol). I do not like bottom feeders. But, I like a warmer throat hit, so I prefer top fed tanks and attys. Although I did purchase a multi meter, Ive rarely used it. As for mechanical mods, Ive only experienced a couple at my local vape shop. But Ive found that the vaping experience is no greater than with my own mods, therefore not worth the expense and/or risk of mechs...imho.
As I'm sure you are finding, ALL opinions are subjective and its all about what works for you. But, for now anyway, Im content with my mods, aga t's and Vision Vivi's (no other vivi's come close). I can tinker to my hearts content and dont fear hurting myself or my home. Best of luck, happy vaping!
Rick, if you like warm / hot, cigarette like vapes ~ like i do ~, try this when you have the chance:
Ninja Vapes: The Phoenix, and the Genesis/Dripping Hybrid RBA Setup
a .7 ohm build of that with kanthal 28 on a mech is the best vape I have!
p.d.: mech risks are neither too expensive (there are cheap, there are expensive ones, just like regulated devices) nor dangerous IF you use high quality bateries (AW IMR, Panasonic, MNKe, etc), a mech with ventilation and don't go out of the way to build a sub .4 ohm build
I usually vape mechs between .5 and .8 ohms and yet to experience even a warm battery
you can also always buy a battery fuse for about 10 bucks
It depends on the level you are at in terms of vaping. If you are planning on building your own coils, then an ohm meter can be very useful. It really helps to check if your RBA consistently is at the same resistance. If you are planning on using clearomizers/etc... on your device, then the ohms meter is not something that is super important. Basically, most beginner items do not have ohms meters on them (510s, egos), but plenty of new vaper successfully vape without any problems.
I was in your same position. I wanted a little more than my lavatube. I was looking for something that was simple, durable yet had a little more sophistication. I ended up going with a Vamo v3 and I havent been disappointed. I typically use the same tank and have found around 3.8v and 7w on it is the sweet spot.
If you do buy a mod with vv and vw, make sure you check to see what others have theirs set on. Its pretty easy to fry a perfectly good head with one of these.
If you do buy a mod with vv and vw, make sure you check to see what others have theirs set on. Its pretty easy to fry a perfectly good head with one of these.
If you are going to RBA on a Mechanical you need a Ohms Meter or a Multimeter to test for shorts.
There are many different ways a short can happen and you need a way to test for shorts other than popping in a mechanical and watching the battery or the coil etc heat to epic proportions
There are many different ways a short can happen and you need a way to test for shorts other than popping in a mechanical and watching the battery or the coil etc heat to epic proportions
Oh!?! Very cool, thank you D. Seems I spoke out of line... I've been intimedated by posts against mechs without some serious experience (1-2 or more years of vaping, before using one), and videos of fuming mods...pretty scary stuff!
:-//
But now, I believe its time for a lil more research, and practice, to achieve that warmth I still long for. No more warm batteries?...COOL!
:-//
But now, I believe its time for a lil more research, and practice, to achieve that warmth I still long for. No more warm batteries?...COOL!
- Status
