I just got my Cisco Bridgeless 2.0 Ohm Atomizer set at 4.0 volts on a eGo-C Twist. Pretty darn good, can I go up on the voltage? How long before it really breaks in?
First Decent Experience With Atomizer
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Upping the voltage is literally a matter of taste, which may also vary pending on ur juice. There are charts/formulas to get u in a proven range, but again it all comes down to taste. Play around with it in small increments and decide for urself. Break in on Ciscos is pretty quick, almost immediate on some.
If I'm not mistaken, that's a Cisco spec 510 atty? 2 ohm 510's on 5 volts was my heaven for a long time, every mod I ever built was set up for it. I was full time dripping, sometimes I removed the bridge.
Hmmmm... this is interesting... I use 306es not 510s but I am using the 2.0 ohm bridgeless ciscos on ego twist set at 3.9 volts.
I have the 1.5 ohmers as well, and the aeros (1.5 ohms), and I was using them on regular egos.... 3.4 volts... and I calculated that if you had the twist on 3.9 volts the wattage for the 2.0 ohmers would be the same as the 1.5 ohmers at 3.4 volts so... that is what I have been setting the twist at with the 2.0 ohmers.
Yeah, just like they say... as you increase the wattage the TH goes up but the flavor goes down. But, I had been using the 2.0 ohmers on standard egos, 3.4 volts, and the flavor was good but not much TH.
So, the thing is, with the twist, you can set the voltage to whatever you want... more than 4 volts... less than 4 volts... etc... and see for yourself... and decide what you prefer.
One caveat, in the PBusardo review on the twist... youtube... he showed that the twist will only put out so much voltage for a given resistance and not go higher than that regardless of what you set it at. At 1.5 ohms it was 3.7 volts. The twist did not put out higher voltage on that even if you set it higher than 3.7. For 2.0 ohms, I would guess the max would be about 4.2-4.4 volts.
I have the 1.5 ohmers as well, and the aeros (1.5 ohms), and I was using them on regular egos.... 3.4 volts... and I calculated that if you had the twist on 3.9 volts the wattage for the 2.0 ohmers would be the same as the 1.5 ohmers at 3.4 volts so... that is what I have been setting the twist at with the 2.0 ohmers.
Yeah, just like they say... as you increase the wattage the TH goes up but the flavor goes down. But, I had been using the 2.0 ohmers on standard egos, 3.4 volts, and the flavor was good but not much TH.
So, the thing is, with the twist, you can set the voltage to whatever you want... more than 4 volts... less than 4 volts... etc... and see for yourself... and decide what you prefer.
One caveat, in the PBusardo review on the twist... youtube... he showed that the twist will only put out so much voltage for a given resistance and not go higher than that regardless of what you set it at. At 1.5 ohms it was 3.7 volts. The twist did not put out higher voltage on that even if you set it higher than 3.7. For 2.0 ohms, I would guess the max would be about 4.2-4.4 volts.
Had to try this, here are my numbers...
joyetech Ego C Twist 650mah - 1.9 ohm cartomizer
Twist setting---V at connector---V under load
3.2---3.36---3.05.
4---4.06---3.8
4.2---4.3---3.9
4.4---4.68---3.9
4.6---4.78---3.9
4.8---4.9---3.95
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Yep, Looks like no reason to go over 4. 
To make things worse, the load results are the upper limit, they drift down as you hold the button, into the 3.8 range. Some of them start at 3.95 then drop. So the reason some are only listed to the tenth is because it's my guesstimated average after firing twice, letting it rest for 5 seconds, then firing twice more. Voltage at connector is always solid and listed exactly as my cheapo meter reads.
To make things worse, the load results are the upper limit, they drift down as you hold the button, into the 3.8 range. Some of them start at 3.95 then drop. So the reason some are only listed to the tenth is because it's my guesstimated average after firing twice, letting it rest for 5 seconds, then firing twice more. Voltage at connector is always solid and listed exactly as my cheapo meter reads.
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There are problems using a standard voltmeter in testing voltage on the twist.... this is because, at higher voltages, the twist has a sinusoid output... and a standard DC voltmeter will simply not pick that up.
In the PBusardo youtube review... he noted that and used an oscilloscope to get his readings.
I would check out the PBusardo review and use that as the standard on how high the twist will go... or test yourself using an oscilloscope.
In the PBusardo youtube review... he noted that and used an oscilloscope to get his readings.
I would check out the PBusardo review and use that as the standard on how high the twist will go... or test yourself using an oscilloscope.
Looking at the PBusardo review again... I would think... extrapolating a bit... that you should be able to go up to around 4.3 - 4.4 volts at 2.0 ohms... with that being as high as you can get.
But, you can test this out yourself... just start out at some level and increase by .1 volts, or .2 volts, and see where you come to the point where there is... no change.
Yeah, when testing along these lines, sometimes ya gotta do it multiple times before it becomes clear.
But, you can test this out yourself... just start out at some level and increase by .1 volts, or .2 volts, and see where you come to the point where there is... no change.
Yeah, when testing along these lines, sometimes ya gotta do it multiple times before it becomes clear.
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According to this chart http://i.imgur.com/Ohn8o.png 4 volts would be the high setting for 2 ohms.
I try to follow the chart to keep from getting that burnt taste and to keep from blowing the coils. Of course, I'm a newbie and maybe I have interpreted this wrong. But it is a good reference chart.
I try to follow the chart to keep from getting that burnt taste and to keep from blowing the coils. Of course, I'm a newbie and maybe I have interpreted this wrong. But it is a good reference chart.
The problem with those charts is that they're based on the preferences of the person who made them. In this "hobby" limits are always pushed, and certain devices and combinations can perform better or worse than others. The guide is a good reference at best. There are too many variables between users, their equipment and even the liquids.
The charts are a good reference, but is my equipment giving me what I think I'm getting.
That chart is a good starting point but, USinchains mentioned using 2.0 ohm atties on 5 volts and... that would be... 5 x 5 / 2 = 12.5 watts, which is well into the red area of the chart.
But that is what he likes so IMO ya gotta go with what you like... and as mentioned at the start of the referenced PBusardo review... what is best for one person is not what is best for another.
For me... I had these juices on 1.8 ohm ciscos... but was getting some juice burning at the end of the vape using standard egos (3.4 volts... which would be just 6.4 watts) so I moved those to 2.0 ohm ciscos (now down to just 5.8 watts) and the burning went away. But, I wasn't getting any TH with this setup so I started using the 2.0s on the twist set at 3.9 volts (now up to 7.6 watts) and I indeed get some burning at the end of the vape but now I just see that as the time to stop vaping or, add some more juice.
When dripping, you get this at the end of the vape... this is because the heat, at the end of a vape, is concentrated on a lot less juice. But, it is easy to deal with... just add more juice.
As I mentioned with this before... the one caveat... is at higher wattages you get more TH but... less flavor. So, I am not sure if I will continue at the 3.9 or lower that to 3.7 or whatever. But, I don't see any need (for me) to go over 10 watts, and the twist should be able to get up to around 9.6 watts (at 4.4 volts on the 2.0 ohm atties) so, I can try it that high it I want (Burn city? I dunno. Haven't tried it that high).
But that is what he likes so IMO ya gotta go with what you like... and as mentioned at the start of the referenced PBusardo review... what is best for one person is not what is best for another.
For me... I had these juices on 1.8 ohm ciscos... but was getting some juice burning at the end of the vape using standard egos (3.4 volts... which would be just 6.4 watts) so I moved those to 2.0 ohm ciscos (now down to just 5.8 watts) and the burning went away. But, I wasn't getting any TH with this setup so I started using the 2.0s on the twist set at 3.9 volts (now up to 7.6 watts) and I indeed get some burning at the end of the vape but now I just see that as the time to stop vaping or, add some more juice.
When dripping, you get this at the end of the vape... this is because the heat, at the end of a vape, is concentrated on a lot less juice. But, it is easy to deal with... just add more juice.
As I mentioned with this before... the one caveat... is at higher wattages you get more TH but... less flavor. So, I am not sure if I will continue at the 3.9 or lower that to 3.7 or whatever. But, I don't see any need (for me) to go over 10 watts, and the twist should be able to get up to around 9.6 watts (at 4.4 volts on the 2.0 ohm atties) so, I can try it that high it I want (Burn city? I dunno. Haven't tried it that high).
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If you think the Cisco is good...wait until you try a HH357-#1 disposible atty.....
The Aero (by cisco) is a cisco spec coil with the HH.357 air flow. In other words, it is a 'mass produced' HH.357 and just costs $12 as compared to the HH.357 which costs $22 to $25 and... you have to wait until they build yours.
And then there is the fact that some people have gotten HH.357s and (if you read these forums), have not liked them. So, given the cost and the wait time, I am sure that was not a good experience.
Of course, others have liked them.
So, to each their own.
For me, I use cisco atties almost exclusively right now but, have no interest in the HH.357. Part of the reason is I prefer 306 sized atties but also, I am not gonna spend $25 on an atty simply because... atties ultimately burn out and... that is too much for an atty IMO.... regardless of how good they are. And lastly, can't see getting much more out of an HH.357 over an Aero regardless of what the HH.357 fanbois might say.
But, again, to each their own.
And then there is the fact that some people have gotten HH.357s and (if you read these forums), have not liked them. So, given the cost and the wait time, I am sure that was not a good experience.
Of course, others have liked them.
So, to each their own.
For me, I use cisco atties almost exclusively right now but, have no interest in the HH.357. Part of the reason is I prefer 306 sized atties but also, I am not gonna spend $25 on an atty simply because... atties ultimately burn out and... that is too much for an atty IMO.... regardless of how good they are. And lastly, can't see getting much more out of an HH.357 over an Aero regardless of what the HH.357 fanbois might say.
But, again, to each their own.
Oh, I should say on this one.... I got the Aeros because I was having problems with spitting and gurgling using the (306) 1.5 ohm cicso bridgeless atties on egos (3.4 volts) and my main vape. By comparison, the Aero gives a bit less TH it seems but the vape is way more consistent... the same vape every time and that is real nice.
But, the strange thing, is I do not have the spitting/gurgling problems with other juices on egos and 1.5 ohms, and I have never had these problems with the 2.0 ohm atties at 3.9 volts.
So, the only thing I can say on this one... whatever works, works.
The one caveat on the Aeros... is they only come in 1.5 ohms. But, at least for now, that is fine as the 2.0s at 3.9 volts are working just as good as the Aero at 3.4 volts.
But, the strange thing, is I do not have the spitting/gurgling problems with other juices on egos and 1.5 ohms, and I have never had these problems with the 2.0 ohm atties at 3.9 volts.
So, the only thing I can say on this one... whatever works, works.
The one caveat on the Aeros... is they only come in 1.5 ohms. But, at least for now, that is fine as the 2.0s at 3.9 volts are working just as good as the Aero at 3.4 volts.
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