First rebuildable atomizer, any advice is appreciated.

[roxynoodle]

Now a new issue appeared, I left it laying on its side, as soon as I picked it up to vape, it starts to gurgle and then it leaked almost all the tank from the air hole, is it normal or it's something to do with the build?!!!!


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First, check vacuum. Cover the airhole(s) tightly with your finger tip(s) and suck hard. If the vacuum is good you should not feel any air coming through. If you do feel air, you have a bad o ring or something isn't snugged up, or its overtightened and compressing an o ring.

If vacuum tests ok, its the wicking. In this case, try a larger coil. I use 2.4mm ID. A larger coil will give you more wicking. Just gently tuck down your wick to just under those top chimney threads. Don't shove it down

 

[alicewonderland]

thats the issue ive been getting scared of thats keeping me going into a rebuildable tank atomizer. leaking and such. I am new to RBA's as well and started on an IGO which helped me start learning how to build coils, then upgraded to a mutation X. If this is your first rebuildable I'd suggest trying to pick up a Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (RDA) after ur done fiddling with the RTA you have, much more convenient imo. For tanks I just use my old Kanger Aarotank clearomizer, need up upgrade that to one of the new clearomizer tanks but still waiting on reviews for the Kanger Subtank. I personally stay with old clearomizer style tanks rather than rebuildable atomizer tanks, and just use rebuildable dripper atomizers (without holes in the deck) to prevent spillage, especially since im using VV/VW mods. thats my opinion though, and the clearomizer tanks seem to be getting much better in quality and vape recently so its looking good.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

First, check vacuum. Cover the airhole(s) tightly with your finger tip(s) and suck hard. If the vacuum is good you should not feel any air coming through. If you do feel air, you have a bad o ring or something isn't snugged up, or its overtightened and compressing an o ring.

If vacuum tests ok, its the wicking. In this case, try a larger coil. I use 2.4mm ID. A larger coil will give you more wicking. Just gently tuck down your wick to just under those top chimney threads. Don't shove it down

Well, it's defiantly not a vacuum issue, as I did what you said and even stick my tongue in the drip tip hole and it's stick there for a while, will rebuild on 2.5mm and rewick and check again.


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[Elmasryahmed]

thats the issue ive been getting scared of thats keeping me going into a rebuildable tank atomizer. leaking and such. I am new to RBA's as well and started on an IGO which helped me start learning how to build coils, then upgraded to a mutation X. If this is your first rebuildable I'd suggest trying to pick up a Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (RDA) after ur done fiddling with the RTA you have, much more convenient imo. For tanks I just use my old Kanger Aarotank clearomizer, need up upgrade that to one of the new clearomizer tanks but still waiting on reviews for the Kanger Subtank. I personally stay with old clearomizer style tanks rather than rebuildable atomizer tanks, and just use rebuildable dripper atomizers (without holes in the deck) to prevent spillage, especially since im using VV/VW mods. thats my opinion though, and the clearomizer tanks seem to be getting much better in quality and vape recently so its looking good.

I've an RDA for almost a month now with no issues, also I built my aerotank v2 coils for a while now and I'm pretty comfort with building coils, wicking is a bit tricky though.


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[Ponchik]

Here's one of the builds that has a burnt taste

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This one of a strange design. The way we make our wicks in our regular type design Kayfuns/Russians most likely won't work. I guess that's why you experience leaking or burned hits. If my guess is right you have to experiment to make your wicks work by cutting them a bit longer to go into the channels but not too tight and not too loose for juice not to leak and at the same time to wick properly. Personally in your shoes I would just get one Ehpro Kayfun clone which I'm sure will do a great job for me.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

This one of a strange design. The way we make our wicks in our regular type design Kayfuns/Russians most likely won't work. I guess that's why you experience leaking or burned hits. If my guess is right you have to experiment to make your wicks work by cutting them a bit longer to go into the channels but not too tight and not too loose for juice not to leak and at the same time to wick properly. Personally in your shoes I would just get one Ehpro Kayfun clone which I'm sure will do a great job for me.

Here's a better pic of the deep juice channels

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[Elmasryahmed]

New coil 2.5 mm with 28g @ 1.6 ohms

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[Ponchik]

Here's a better pic of the deep juice channels

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Definitely what I thought. I would send it to collect dust then use it for parts.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

Definitely what I thought. I would send it to collect dust then use it for parts.

Some clones makers modified the design with a larger channels for better wicking, I choose it while knowing so.


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[Elmasryahmed]

Rebuilt with 28g kanthal @2.5 mm, 1.5 ohms and rewiked it, works great now,
I even took it with me in a couple of flights, not a single drop leaked out.


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