First VV Mod Finally Finished: OKR 10 Amp 50 Watt Powered

[Todd Mulske]

Well, I finally finished my first mod; a VV 2.4 to 6.0 volts. I worked pretty hard on the mod; I would say I put about 30 hours into this, but i am feeling pretty good right about now.

Components:

madvapes box with battery holder
Project Box 4.5 x 2.75 x 1 with battery door, Black

1s-6s voltage meter
Battery Voltage Indicator

Two 3 amp pushbutton on/off switches (1 for master switch and 1 for voltage meter
SPST ON/OFF PUSHBUTTON | AllElectronics.com

one NC Closed momentary Switch (Heavy duty plunger and spring assembly) Rated at 4 amps
NORM. CLOSED MOMENTARY PUSHBUTTON, RED | AllElectronics.com

one avid vaper extended battery contact (was too expensive but it was nice) was able to solder an automotive connector to a wire and place behind the nut for the ground connection rather than solder to the connector
510 to 510 adapter | extender

One 2AA Battery holder
BATTERY HOLDER 2 AA CELLS | AllElectronics.com

One Murata OKR-T/10-W12C 10 amp 50 watt DC/DC Converter
OKR-T/10-W12 | Results | Search | Murata Power Solutions

one vishay 470 Ohm Potentiometer (tested at 405 ohms)
P16NP471MAB15 Vishay/Sfernice Potentiometers

One Vishay 220 Ohm 1/10 Watt .1% tolerance 50ppm Military precision resistor
RN55C2200BRE6 Vishay/Dale Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole

2 Trustfire 14500 900 MAH Batteries
Protected Trustfire 14500 Battery, 900 mAH

Wired with 20 gauge solid wire from all electronics throughout

Here are a few pictures :

The wiring diagram that I used, but there is not a fuse in it. Did not want to try to cram one in over all the wire.

It took a while but it was worth it, time to put an atty in it and see how it vapes.

 

[TomCatt]

Todd! Looks nice! Dontcha love it when a plan comes together?

Vape On!

 

[CapeCAD]

Looks great Todd

 

[Quigsworth]

Ya!...well done Todd, pretty good job on the meter cut-out too...I leave that till last cause I hate doing them...though now, with my new x-y vice on my drill press they're a lot easier (I use a 1/8" end mill bit)...that's a big ... box, for your next mod (and you will build another cause nobody puts that much effort into a build like you unless you have the bug, lol)...I'm thinking 2x 18350's in portrait instead of 2x 14500's in landscape if you use that same box, just push the fire switch up a bit and you got it, or just ignore me, I'm not truly happy unless every square mm of a box is used (have to get my moneys worth)...again, well done, enjoy!

Edit: I took a closer look and that's a batt hatch box so maybe the 18350's will be a bigger pain than what it's worth...

 

[eyebedam]

Todd that looks awesome. Great job. When you get tired of it you can send it to me & I will love it. It will be my precious. Lol. I'll even pay shipping.

Seriously it looks fantastic, I wish I had the skills & time to try something like that.

 

[k3vin]

Very very nice

 

[Todd Mulske]

Ya!...well done Todd, pretty good job on the meter cut-out too...I leave that till last cause I hate doing them...though now, with my new x-y vice on my drill press they're a lot easier (I use a 1/8" end mill bit)...that's a big ... box, for your next mod (and you will build another cause nobody puts that much effort into a build like you unless you have the bug, lol)...I'm thinking 2x 18350's in portrait instead of 2x 14500's in landscape if you use that same box, just push the fire switch up a bit and you got it, or just ignore me, I'm not truly happy unless every square mm of a box is used (have to get my moneys worth)...again, well done, enjoy!

Edit: I took a closer look and that's a batt hatch box so maybe the 18350's will be a bigger pain than what it's worth...

I have two more of these converters on hand. Already decided that the next mod will be 2 18650 3000mah batteries as I already have them on hand. Do not know which box I will use though because this one has a battery door on it and it would be completely useless with 18650's because they will not fit sideways in the box, no use having the battery door if your not going to use it. Looking for a box with enough room to put 2 18650's in sideways with a battery door but haven't found one yet. I may have to just use a complete enclosure and just put in a built in charging connection making the recharging plug and play you could say.

Here is a box i am thinking about getting to play with.

Hold 4x 18650 Battery Holder Box DIY Case With ON/Off Switch USB DC3.5 DC5.5 LED | eBay

 

[Todd Mulske]

Todd that looks awesome. Great job. When you get tired of it you can send it to me & I will love it. It will be my precious. Lol. I'll even pay shipping.

Seriously it looks fantastic, I wish I had the skills & time to try something like that.

What I found out it is not so much skill. Anyone could do something like this; but patience is the number one variable, without it; forget you are already beat. I The converter took me 7 hours to get soldered in cleanly. Did one pin at a time obviously; trust me when I say; a few of them were removed more than once to get it to my satisfaction.

Patience is all you need; patience; patience; patience. yOU CON DO THIS; GIVE IT A TRY.

 

[izdalion]

Ok so you got me super excited on that Dc/DC converter you used. Not only is it small it's a US company that sells it Oh yeah LOL But my question is how in the world did you wire it and does it really push 0-6 volts? I'm a newbie to the MOD world so if you can explain in really simple words I'll appreciate it very much.
What I get from it all is the module is wired to a turn switch that adjusts voltage right. So not only is it compact it's even more space saving I think this would be awesome for the project I want to do. Any info will help thanks so much YIPPY!!!

 

[Todd Mulske]

Ok so you got me super excited on that Dc/DC converter you used. Not only is it small it's a US company that sells it Oh yeah LOL But my question is how in the world did you wire it and does it really push 0-6 volts? I'm a newbie to the MOD world so if you can explain in really simple words I'll appreciate it very much.
What I get from it all is the module is wired to a turn switch that adjusts voltage right. So not only is it compact it's even more space saving I think this would be awesome for the project I want to do. Any info will help thanks so much YIPPY!!!

The converter is capable of pushing .591-6 volts. The maximum voltage is determined by the resistor that is placed between the trim pin of the converter and the wiper of the potentiometer. I used a 220 ohm resistor, which places the maximum voltage the converter can put out at 6 volts. Their are two other pins on the potentiometer, one on each side of the wiper pin that goes to the trim pin on the converter. You run either of those pins to ground. One of the pins makes the voltage go up when you turn the pot knob clockwise the other when you turn it counter clockwise. The pot is not a switch; it is a variable resistor that adds or subtracts resistance to the trim pin. The size ohms of the pot determines how low you can go as far as voltage is concerned. I used a 400 ohm pot which allows me to go to 2.4 volts; a 200 ohm pot would let you go down to somewhere around 3.3 volts.

It is wired exactly like the diagram on this thread without the fuse inline. I left it out because I did not want to cram an automotive fuse in the case and really did not feel it was necessary. This particular converter has a smaller pin spacing than a board or breadboard so it it not possible to put it on a standard board. I spread the pins apart just a little and then soldered straight to the pins and put shrink tubing around each pin.

 

[TomCatt]

Ok so you got me super excited on that Dc/DC converter you used. Not only is it small it's a US company that sells it Oh yeah LOL But my question is how in the world did you wire it and does it really push 0-6 volts? I'm a newbie to the MOD world so if you can explain in really simple words I'll appreciate it very much.
What I get from it all is the module is wired to a turn switch that adjusts voltage right. So not only is it compact it's even more space saving I think this would be awesome for the project I want to do. Any info will help thanks so much YIPPY!!!

Here's another thread for the OKR-T converter - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/191607-easy-okr-t-vv-mod.html

 

[izdalion]

Thanks alot for the info Todd but still sounded a little foreign to me LOL Then I took a look at the diagram tomcatt suggested and now I get it HAHAHA Awesome MOD and I was also thinking of going the 18650 route but as you can tell I'll most likely blow up if I do
Thank you Tom
Thank you Tomcatt

 

[Quigsworth]

Thanks alot for the info Todd but still sounded a little foreign to me LOL Then I took a look at the diagram tomcatt suggested and now I get it HAHAHA Awesome MOD and I was also thinking of going the 18650 route but as you can tell I'll most likely blow up if I do
Thank you Tom
Thank you Tomcatt

The OKR T 6 was in the first (and 3rd) vv mod I've built, I used the MV ver. 2 on the second and I swear that chip gets hotter than the atty I'm trying to fire (it's a linear converter, the OKR's are switched). The OKR's are super simple to wire and install (no heat sink)...do yourself a favour, when you place your order with Digikey, get 4 of everything, they're good to have in your mod tackle box.

Just to avoid any confusion, I used the T 6's (6 Amp) Todd used the T 10's (10 amp)...Todd likes to vape at 55 watts...pretty serious guy that Todd, lol, you can also get a T 3 (3 amps) which is most likely good enough.

 

[izdalion]

The OKR T 6 was in the first (and 3rd) vv mod I've built, I used the MV ver. 2 on the second and I swear that chip gets hotter than the atty I'm trying to fire (it's a linear converter, the OKR's are switched). The OKR's are super simple to wire and install (no heat sink)...do yourself a favour, when you place your order with Digikey, get 4 of everything, they're good to have in your mod tackle box.

Just to avoid any confusion, I used the T 6's (6 Amp) Todd used the T 10's (10 amp)...Todd likes to vape at 55 watts...pretty serious guy that Todd, lol, you can also get a T 3 (3 amps) which is most likely good enough.

Is it easy to order from Digikey? See my problem is I need to keep cost down and the OKR are more expencive then the rev 2 kit from madvapes

 

[Quigsworth]

I hear ya, the OKR's aren't cheap, check out TomCatts ACDC mod, he uses the LM2596 buck modual, I haven't tried one yet but a lot of guys use them here and they sound pretty bullet proof for $4+ off Ebay you can't loose and it's a switching reg.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for the learning curve from trial and error but on this one (also, nothing against MV's product, god, I should buy shares in that company)...stick to switching regulators, our batt life is to precious to squander amps on heating an IC

Edit: Ordering from Digikey is a piece of cake, although for us Canadians there's this new protocol in place...they want to know what I'm doing with the components, if I'll be exporting them outside of canada, bla, bla, bla, like what the hell?