Fogger V3 - Just got it . . .

[xXReaper937Xx]

Ok, so the vapemail came today. Joyous occasion. Finally got the Fogger V3 from Stormy. Few things I noticed since viewing the V2 thread pics. The rubber insulator on the deck just under where your coil would be is now gone. This should solve the burnt plastic taste from the V2. The things seems built pretty well and has a good heft to it. I've got it up and running on the Magneto with two pieces of 2mm silica and a 3-4 wrap of 28g kanthal. So far it seems to be feeding pretty well and the flavor seems fairly good. It has an airier draw than the original Protank it seems. I have not had any shorting problems that others have dicussed out of the box. I have not made any modifications, as of yet. Im about an hour in. Has anyone else picked up a V3 yet? What are your thoughts? So far, it seems like a pretty damn good bottom coil rda for 30 bones.

 

[we87]

Where did you buy it? And can you post some pictures please?

 

[metamorpheus]

Not much complaint here with my fogger v3, it brought my vamo out of retirement. At sub ohm it kept going dry, but that was before I knew you merely had to turn the pyrex to the right instead of taking it apart to open the juice control. I'm not willing to take it apart to experiment with it again though as I'm satisfied with where it at. One thing I hate is how the AFC is nearly impossible to take apart without bending the threads for the chimney. Since getting my builds down flooding hasn't been an issue. XC-116 is great in this thing. Fog on.

 

[xXReaper937Xx]

I got it from stormysvaporcellar. I'll post some pics later. The AFC seems pretty worthless to me personally. The threading is so loose that really it either open, or closed. Closing it creates too much of a vacuum and floods the thing. I'm loving it though. Looks great on the Magneto.

 

[SheerLuckHolmes]

Not much complaint here with my fogger v3, it brought my vamo out of retirement. At sub ohm it kept going dry, but that was before I knew you merely had to turn the pyrex to the right

Turning pyrex to the right????? What's that about? I'm getting dry hits like crazy. Not feeding well at all.

 

[boathook]

On mine, turning the pyrex does nothing but slide along the bottom o-ring, so I'm not sure what metamorpheus is meaning.

I did find that if I set the chimney on a bit loose, it does allow for better wicking with a thicker wick in place. The tradeoff was that it flooded really easy.

So I just ripped my xc-116 out and replaced with cotton (again) after watching this:


The method in the video actually seems to work very well for me thus far.

 

[nevuh]

Just got mine today and I am so disappointed. I can't even take a draw from it..

 

[boathook]

Just got mine today and I am so disappointed. I can't even take a draw from it..

Why not? No mod, or is something wrong with your Fogger?

 

[Cjax]

Anyone taken theirs apart yet? I got mine today and tried to take apart the afc by using one side of some small scissors as a lever in the juice flow channels and ended up bending the coil housing so much the cap wouldn't go back on. I was able to fix it by bending it back out, then heating the atty up with boiling water and working the chimney cap on more and more, a little more heat, a little more twisting, and so forth. I want to get it apart to put some Teflon tape or maybe a small o-ring in the afc threads to tighten it up, but I don't want to destroy it before I get a chance to use it!

 

[Phone Guy]

I've had my V3 for a couple days now. I'm very frustrated with it honestly.

I'm sure my issues are user error. It's either not wicking or flooding.

The only "success" I've had so far has been with SS mesh rolled really thick where it pretty much plugs the juice channels of the coil chamber.

Turning the Pyrex on mine doesn't move the chimney whatsoever. That's obviously the problem with o ring at the top.

The quality of the silicone o rings that come with these things are horrible! And I'm being kind calling them horrible. They tear or break so easily its ridiculous. I was able to replace the o ring around the coil chamber that holds the wicks down and seals the lower chamber to the chimney screw cap. But that tiny top one... whoa. Thin and itsy bitsy.

The air flow control is either fully open it sealed closed. It's so loose... I've not been able to take it apart either. Unlike the V1...which I still have, I thought it (everything) would just be so much easier on the v3.

Attaching the coil wires is pretty easy for me at this point, I've done it so many times. I'm getting good at that part. But I can't stop it from flooding.

Oh yeah, and when taking a drag/puff IT'S SO NOISY... that loud sound of rushing air.

/rant

Sent using my typewriter

 

[Cjax]

Well, I was able to get mine apart finally. Stuck it in the freezer for a couple hours, then very gently unscrewed the afc from the base using 2 pair of pliers. I had to grab it on the 2 lips on either side of the afc control ring and twist. A few scratches, but nothing that won't polish out. It's fully disassembled now, so it'll get an alcohol bath and some extra insulation around the positive post for the coil and also the center pin to straighten both of those up a bit. Also some Teflon tape on the threads of the afc to tighten that up as well.

In some ways the v1 is better. The bottom insulator inside the 510 was a hard plastic instead of silicone like the v3, so it holds the center pin straight better, and the chimney separated from the coil chamber cap, so you just pop the top off to fill it. I'm not big on fill screws, always worried I'll loose one while at work or something. I don't usually have to refill it outside the house but there have been some rare occasions when I did. I love my v1, but I did a lot of work to that one too, so hopefully i can get this one to perform at least just as well.

 

[metamorpheus]

If you leave the O ring off that goes on top of your wick, fill the juice channel with wick, leave one side pressed against the glass, and do not twist the chimney on too tight it is adjustable. With it fully assembled, if you turn your pyrex to the right it will start to slowly unscrew the chimney and allow more juice flow. You should see air bubbles when you turn it. I love my fogger now. When I chain vape I save my mech batteries and use my panny hybrids on the vamo. Really juicy vape.

 

[boathook]

Ok, so I actually got mine to function in the same manner. I loosened up the top cap, then slowly "unscrewed" the pyrex and the chimney started unscrewing. Once I saw there was a visible gap, I screwed the top cap back down tight onto the chimney threads and it started feeding more. Actually too much, as I flooded it. But it did actually work as you describe. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Phone Guy]

OK, here's something I noticed today. I have the o-ring on the coil chamber, between the chimney and coil chamber. Its got a cotton wick, with a little bit poking out of the juice holes (I guess is what you'd call them). After a few hits, I get dry burn cotton taste YUK! Ok, so I do not have the proper little tiny o ring at the top of the chimney stack, so I am not able to loosen the pyrex to open the chimney for more juice flow. HOWEVER, if I gently pry up the stainless cap where the fill screw is, bubbles start POURING out of the juice holes / coil chamber.

I don't fully understand how these vacuum bottom coil systems work, but its pretty obvious (to me) that there is not enough air SOMEWHERE preventing the wick from soaking in juice. When I just loosen that top stainless steel cap, and some air goes into the tank, the bubbles starts to flow from the coil chamber. Then, I put the cap back on, screen the top (that says fogger) back on, hit it and its fine again for a few hits.

 

[Phone Guy]

Well, I was able to get mine apart finally.

Did you happen to take any pictures? And was there any significant advantage to taking it apart? I'm guessing you only wanted to tighten up the air flow control ring, but I personally want it wide open all the time anyway... that's why I'm asking if it's worth trying to open mine?

 

[Cjax]

The main reason for me to open it up was to beef up the insulators, especially the one around the positive screw post. The stock insulator is tiny and stops almost a quarter inch inside the post hole. I'll add a cut piece of a carto condom to better fill that hole so the post doesn't wobble. And yes, I want to stiffen up the threads on the afc ring so it doesn't move on it's own.

Here's a tip I can give you, though. With these vacuum tanks like the fogger and Kayfuns, they need a certain amount of tightness in the draw to wick juice optimally. Meaning if the draw is set too loose, it doesn't build enough pressure as you take a drag to pull enough liquid into the coil chamber for the next drag, resulting in a few good hit followed by dry ones. If you have to have a very airy draw, you'll need to close off the afc every few puffs and take a pull without firing to draw more liquid into the chamber. Then open it back up and enjoy!

 

[Woody-GC]

My Fogger set up is micro coil at 1.2 ohms running at 10 watts using cotton as wicking material. I didn't put the o-ring back over the wicks. It hasn't flooded yet after almost a full tank. It is definitely a warmer vape than my Russians, but the flavor is good. It does have a popping/boiling noise when fired, but doesn't seemed to flooded. Definitely is noisy vaping with the popping and the rushing air sound!

 

[Jersh]

I'm confused. I just got a fogger v2 from fasttech and it sounds identical to what you all are describing. So are they the same thing? Is the v2 the v3?

 

[Cjax]

yeah, pretty much. As far as I know the only difference was an added air hole. There are supposed to be metal tanks and slip covers for the pyrex as well, but I don't think anyones actually seen one yet besides pics from the manufacturer on alibaba.

 

[Jersh]

My v2 has 4 air holes...maybe they are mis labelled? I wanted a ss tank as well so I ordered a custom built one off ebay It should be in my mailbox this Wednesday.