From polished to brushed.... Need advice

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cdf294

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I agree with WCSR.
Steel wool has a bunch of drawbacks compared to Scotch Brite or finishing pads. Just ask anyone who has tried to polish guitar frets without taping over the pickups first.
Because Scotch Brite isn't too expensive, I would probably recommend starting with the grey pad first though.
You can always do the red if the grey isn't getting it brushed enough for you.
 

WCSR

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I agree with WCSR.
Steel wool has a bunch of drawbacks compared to Scotch Brite or finishing pads. Just ask anyone who has tried to polish guitar frets without taping over the pickups first.
Because Scotch Brite isn't too expensive, I would probably recommend starting with the grey pad first though.
You can always do the red if the grey isn't getting it brushed enough for you.
No doubt. Polishing frets is tedious work, and definitely involves a lot of taping to keep the wool out of places. Especially electric pickups.


And good recommendation on the scotch brite pads. If you can't get grey scotch brite pads, you can wet the red pads (sanding with them wet), and it softens them up a bit for more fine scratches. It gives more of a satin sheen instead of a brushed grain.
 

cdf294

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That does look awesome...

Thanks.
I am real happy that it turned out so well while being unbelievably easy.
I am a hobbyist woodworker and had a bunch of the 320 finishing pads. Figured I would give it a try on a T2 so I wouldn't freak if it went bad. I would have tried Scotch Brite if I had some on hand. I believe Scotch Brite will work just as well though.
Scotch Brite may even be easier since the finishing pads don't bend as well.

OK Scoop. Will keep an eye open for your results.
 

WCSR

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Thanks.
I am real happy that it turned out so well while being unbelievably easy.
I am a hobbyist woodworker and had a bunch of the 320 finishing pads. Figured I would give it a try on a T2 so I wouldn't freak if it went bad. I would have tried Scotch Brite if I had some on hand. I believe Scotch Brite will work just as well though.
Scotch Brite may even be easier since the finishing pads don't bend as well.

OK Scoop. Will keep an eye open for your results.
Yup... Scotch Brite can be wrapped around the part, and all you have to do is rotate the part a few times (in one direction only). That keeps the grain flowing the same direction, and gives it a nice professional look.
 

UncleChuck

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i would agree with the Scotch Brite idea. I refinished my AGI from polished to brushed, it's hard to tell with my crappy pics but should give you some idea, the drip tip and the PV's tube are "factory" brushed finish for comparison. There are a few scuff marks on the AGI but those happened after I refinished it, pocket with keys and all that:

velaclone1.jpg

I know Scotch Brite may sound like a ghetto way of doing things, but it's quite common in industry. I used to work for a place that supplied high-end (very very expensive) stainless steel pressure cylinders to companies like Dow Chemical, guess how they gave their cylinders a brushed finish? They would buy Scotch Brite by the short pallet, the red pads specifically.

I figure if it's good enough for an $8,000 cylinder the size of a 2-liter pop bottle, it's good enough for vape equipment. The key to getting a good finish is even application of pressure, and making sure to keep the grain straight. A lathe makes this incredibly easy, but a drill also works.

For stuff like top caps or anything that's hollow with a larger diameter, you can simply put any sort of rod into the drill's chuck, take some fabric scraps and wrap them around the rod thicker than the inside diameter of the cap, wrap some duct tape around the fabric, then friction fit the object over the cloth. This will allow you to spin the item and get a good even finish.

The poster above mentioned holding the pad steady and rotating the part inside the pad. If you don't have a drill this will also work, using a large pad just hold the item between the pad, then with your other hand spin the item. Don't spin back and forth, remove your hand from the part and reposition it so you can continually spin the part in one direction.

While repositioning your spinning hand, increase the pressure on the pad and part so it keeps the same position and you don't get any grain marks that go in odd directions because the part slightly shifted in the pad. You just want one long continuous spin of the part.

You can start of getting the grain going and removing the polish without paying too much attention to getting the grain perfectly straight. This makes the whole job quicker, and as long as you finish up with some perfectly straight passes, the initial grain lines won't matter.
 
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SissySpike

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If your trying to match a Provari it is media blasted not brushed. Im sure you could email provape and ask them what process they use to finish their mods and find a local or internet source to duplicate. Brushed will never match blasted. You can buy cheap small sand blasters possibly and do it your self. But Im not sure what they use, Walnut shells possibly?
 
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