so whats the deal with this. i bought the starter kit and within a week on of the batteries died (auto with LED), my original manual without an LED still works phenominal. i bought 2 new batteries, both manuals with LED. ive only been using 2 (new one with an LED and the original non LED), as i can cycle them from the charger to my mouth and when ones dead the other is charged, so it works great. but now one of the new LED manuals is dieing already (hardly any vapor produced and dies out completely very quickly), while my non LED works great. so thats 2 batteries that have died within a week of purchasing. is this normal? does the LED have anything to do with it, or coincidence? if so, i dont see how this can be cheaper than anologs...
frustrated at 810 batteries
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You get what you pay for.
Batteries are a non-issue for PVs like the screwdriver, you can buy them in packs of 4 on places like dealextreme for a few bucks. The math says it all.
It can be extremely cheap if you do the research.
Batteries are a non-issue for PVs like the screwdriver, you can buy them in packs of 4 on places like dealextreme for a few bucks. The math says it all.
It can be extremely cheap if you do the research.
Yep, $2 for batteries for the Screwdriver, Prodigy, Janty Stick, GG and they last for months without a problem.
Tbremer;
Here's the scoop, without any smart assed remarks.
You have what I refer to as a medium duty e-cig. It's meant to be used to squelch your cravings, put it in your pocket, and use it when your cravings come back. It's to be used more or less like a real cigarette.
If you're going to use the e-cig on a heaver level, and more often than you would normally smoke an analog, you probably should look into one of the mods. They don't look like an analog, but they'll give you the extra service that you need.
Everyone has different requirements, needs, and vaping styles. If you're killing batteries, it might be time to move up.
Cheers;
jd
Here's the scoop, without any smart assed remarks.
You have what I refer to as a medium duty e-cig. It's meant to be used to squelch your cravings, put it in your pocket, and use it when your cravings come back. It's to be used more or less like a real cigarette.
If you're going to use the e-cig on a heaver level, and more often than you would normally smoke an analog, you probably should look into one of the mods. They don't look like an analog, but they'll give you the extra service that you need.
Everyone has different requirements, needs, and vaping styles. If you're killing batteries, it might be time to move up.
Cheers;
jd
bundy and davis, i did do my research and was under the assumption that the 810 was a good PV. seemed like many vaped heavily with it (which i dont use it all day, i vape "heavily" for about 1-3 hours a day, if at all, more on the weekend depending on what i got going on). i would say both batteries that died were charged 10 times, the first one that died possibly less than that. is that honestly normal? if so when the rest of these die looks like im going back to analogs and trying to wing myself off of them (im taking in a LOT less nicotine as it is anyways, may as well quit completely)
very frustrated with this
very frustrated with this
Normal is relative to many factors such as quality control, use, hardware malfunctioning etc., so I can't say with any certainty why the batteries are failing.
However that being said, the math is clear on the mods being not only superior in quality, reliability, and performance, they are orders of magnitude less expensive over time because of the battery issue. I think people just buy the other trash because it's cheaper upfront, but ironically outlay way more in cost over time.
The only cheap solution I can suggest for your case is picking up a usb pass-through if you use it in front of a computer for your heavy vaping periods.
Ultimately everyone with any sense goes to a mod, the only difference is how much they waste getting there.
Hi, tbremer,
The batteries for most e-cigs are pretty crummy. I lost two (auto) 801 batteries in the first few days. Then I flooded one. Since then, I've had another fail. I only have one manual 801 battery, and it hasn't failed yet, but it shares the same vulnerability that the manual batteries do - it's not sealed. Eventually smoke juice is going to infiltrate the battery, and it will either fail suddenly or get gummed up and half-way work for a while before it fails.
So what can I say? Well, the most important thing we can do to prolong the life of a 801 battery is to make sure that we avoid some of the things that can kill them. To me, that includes blowing out and draining the atomizers whenever they start feeling "heavy," which can occur in only a few hours vaping. That lessens the chance of fluid tracking back into the battery. I also avoid dripping with the battery attached in general, but I strictly avoid dripping on a hot atty.
I've never had much luck blowing a battery out from the LED end, but I do stand them upright when not in use.
I must be doing something right because my oldest working 801 battery (an automatic) has been in service since 5/18/2009. I do have a couple that I'm going to retire, though, because they've become hard to draw through.
I was comparing them trying to decide which ones are not worth charging anymore just a while ago. I have that luxury now because I bought a Prodigy.
Bottom line with the auto switch PV's like the 901, 801, 4081, super mini's, blu, etc, just plan to get 1-2 hours of battery time on a charge, NEVER drip on the atomizer, keep your carts dryer instead of moist so liquid doesn't get into the battery. Of course with dryer carts you tend to get that burnt taste from the atomizer but that is the price you have to pay for the smaller auto switch PV's.
Or get a sealed battery compartment PV that gives great throat hit and no concern with juice getting into the battery compartment and batteries that last 5-8 hours on a charge.
Or get a sealed battery compartment PV that gives great throat hit and no concern with juice getting into the battery compartment and batteries that last 5-8 hours on a charge.
NOOOO!!!! I like my 801 batteries. I rotate 4. oldest is from by original starter kit. Maby 2 mo rotating use. I've only lost 1 battery. I store them ash side up in a shot glass so they can drain.
Good advice as well. I tend to run my 801's into the ground. I think the real issue is storing your e-cig for the night. I tend to leave my e-cig assembled which I think is what causes excesss liquid to run into the battery over night, it sucks. Automatic batteries are the worst if you overfill or drip as they get clogged easily. I have manual models as well which are far more reliable but you can use automatic batteries if they are taken care of properly!
I think all of you are missing the point of his question. He wants to know how to keep a battery functioning for more than a week. I think that is a reasonable expectation, especially for the sealed, manual batteries. General life experience tells us that rechargeable batteries last longer than a week unless something is wrong. He is asking for practical advice for how to keep his 801 batteries running for a reasonable period of time. Clearly, he has read the forum because he understands the fragility of the automatic batteries and bought the sealed, manual ones.
It could be that all of you don't know an answer to his question or even suggestions for him to try. However, what is clear is that he doesn't want or need to be told that he is simply naive to believe that anything other than a mod will work for more than a week. He comes on here asking for help, and all he is told over and over is that anyone who knows anything knows that only a mod will work reliably. This is both insulting to him (because it suggests he is stupid, at least about ecigs) and also doesn't provide any sort of answer to his question. He is not ready to move to a larger mod yet. Some of us do and some folks never get a mod.
Does anyone have any sort of answer for 801 batteries for him? I don't really have an answer except to say that quality control is not the best with ecigs. When you get new batteries, charge and test them all for more than one charge as quickly as possible. Buy from sellers who have some sort of decent warranty period (not 24 or 48 hours as some do but more like 2 weeks minimum and one to six months or more is preferable). Immediately send back any battery that doesn't work, doesn't charge, or won't hold a charge. I know this is a pain because then you have to wait for replacements; but hopefully, you end up with functional batteries. Accept the fact that some batteries can work like champs for a while and then, suddenly, just go dead as a rock for no reason that you can fathom. And, finally, don't give up and good luck.
Well, yeah, you can go through the hassle of sending back your batteries for replacement and then waiting (total shipping time) close to a month for the replacement. That is an option. Or you can buy $2 rechargeable batteries as many of us have that can be recharged about 1000 times and you can get the non-rechargeable equivalents at Wal-Mart to have on hand for emergencies so you are never stuck.
I believe we are trying to tell the OP their are more cost effective and less frustrating ways to vape. Afterall, he is frustrated. As an example, I have 10 spare batteries that cost me the same as one and half of the small regular tube style batteries.
I think my favorite type of 801 battery is The Prodigy right now. It's slightly spendy, but brilliant. I have a bunch more coming though, so we'll see.
And, now, after 5 months of vaping, I personally agree with you for my own use; however, OP joined in June and isn't ready for that yet (he said he is not).
Ok. He wants to know if there is anything he is doing wrong or if we know some tricks with the type of batteries he has. Since he is talking primarily about manual batteries, I don't have any great answers; but if he was using automatics, he could try knocking it on the edge of a table to unstick the switch in case it's stuck or move to manuals on the same model. I've had much better luck than he has with my 510 batteries, but I have also read of others who have had a miserable time with them.
If the OP is still reading this thread, you should read this thread too.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cig-technical-issues/16503-overheating-batteries.html
I came to your thread originally because I am packing for a trip and just had one of my sealed, manual 510 batteries refuse to take a charge no matter what I did. I was also having trouble with not enough vapor and such annoyances.
After reading the first page of this thread, I went and replaced my atomizer for a new one. I had always thought that they died but going progressively more difficult to heat up. This is not always true. They can also turn into battery killers. Just read the thread. Oh, and my 510 is vaping like a champ again.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cig-technical-issues/16503-overheating-batteries.html
I came to your thread originally because I am packing for a trip and just had one of my sealed, manual 510 batteries refuse to take a charge no matter what I did. I was also having trouble with not enough vapor and such annoyances.
After reading the first page of this thread, I went and replaced my atomizer for a new one. I had always thought that they died but going progressively more difficult to heat up. This is not always true. They can also turn into battery killers. Just read the thread. Oh, and my 510 is vaping like a champ again.
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