i love the fusion cartos just hate having to use an adapter and also the gap that they leave. what would be a good ikv carto that's close too it? i hate tight draws thus i love the fusions. thanks in advance
fusion 801 to ?
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well im waiting on them to hit the site and im going to give them a try. 1 1/2 days from a tanked carto is just not what i should get(insert well know name here-gate)
From the Fusions I've gotten one day from a tanked one but that's not the norm. I usually get anywhere from 2 weeks to a month. Platinums are another long runner as is the Mega 808. That's why they are actually a better bargain.
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not trying to thread steal, but do the IKV Mega 808's come with primer in them? I bought some a few months back and every one I used tasted horrible and I couldn't use them. Thanks in advance for any info. The Fusions work great, but I use and adapter and only like them on a manual battery.
No primer. I've used a bunch and never had that problem. I use Fusions in a tank, on a variable, set at 4.5 to 5 volts. Here's why.
I used to use them in this.
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That is the coolest tank i ever saw!!! What is that?!No primer. I've used a bunch and never had that problem. I use Fusions in a tank, on a variable, set at 4.5 to 5 volts. Here's why.
I used to use them in this.
That is the coolest tank i ever saw!!! What is that?!
It is a fishing bobber I bought from Fred Meyers.
Hey 5card, I saw you say you run your fusions at 4.?-5v? Are those the standard resistance? On IKVs site it says the STD fusions are recommended for 3.7-5v, but I use mine with two tenergy rcrblah blah 3v batteries stacked. When they fresh its 6.6v, and by time I'm ready to swap for a fresh set they are barely down to 3v each. I wonder if its just my preference or if I'm running them too hot. Anything less than 6v doesn't seem like enough. Actually the site also says they are 2.5ohms, but mine have metered at 3ohm.
Yes they are the standard Fusions or the Fusion Punch standard. They are made with 2.5 Ohm coils but with manufacturing there are so many variables as well as different meters coming up with different readings the 2.5 ohm is a starting point. Cartos and atty's aren't an exact science. If yours meter at 3 ohms that would be better at 6 volts. I use a Buzz Pro that is variable so I go up and down on my settings. I like a warm vape so I tend to run them a little high. Outside I run them at 6 volts.
Ya, I had too much time on my hands at the time.
Well it's AWESOME! How does it preform?Uh oh, 3V each? I believe that can be a bad thing, my memory on Tenergy is a little shady, but the lowest they should drop down to is the 3.2V area. Also, make sure they state "Protected" on the battery itself.. Going by the Cr blah blah, i don't think I need to lay down the formula of wattage, load vs unload, sweetspots etc
So to keep it general:
1.5Ω are for 3.7V batteries with a 400mah rating or higher, it does cause a bit of sacrifice of battery run time depending on which brand of an atty your using.
1.8Ω is for 3.7-4.5V any mah rating will be totally fine
2.5Ω is weak on 3.7V but some folks like a cooler vape, and they max out at 5.2V You definitely don't want to go past the max voltage
3.5Ω is where you want to be at with your battery set up. Cartomizers, I was working on a HV cartomizer for 6V but ended up shelving it for other projects.
Depending on your mod, you can possibly use a big 18650 3.7V battery, slap on a 1.5Ω atty and achieve close to the same results of what your getting now, save for the scorching
also this change will open up your options into a wide array of cartomizers. If you have a tank mod with a 2.7-3.0 carto you can use it on 6v, but keep in mind, with higher voltages, your always bound to consume more liquid at an exceeded rat.Another important part about multimeters (volt meters) Set it to the ↨ setting >20,>200 whatever is the lowest number and hold the contacts together, watch your meter's screen for where the number stops, you will then deduct this number as a standard from all readings. Digital meters have a strong habit of having this differential.
It works good but I quit using it because I don't know if plastic is good to use with PG. Might be fine but I just didn't know.
Uh oh, 3V each? I believe that can be a bad thing, my memory on Tenergy is a little shady, but the lowest they should drop down to is the 3.2V area. Also, make sure they state "Protected" on the battery itself.. Going by the Cr blah blah, i don't think I need to lay down the formula of wattage, load vs unload, sweetspots etc
So to keep it general:
1.5Ω are for 3.7V batteries with a 400mah rating or higher, it does cause a bit of sacrifice of battery run time depending on which brand of an atty your using.
1.8Ω is for 3.7-4.5V any mah rating will be totally fine
2.5Ω is weak on 3.7V but some folks like a cooler vape, and they max out at 5.2V You definitely don't want to go past the max voltage
3.5Ω is where you want to be at with your battery set up. Cartomizers, I was working on a HV cartomizer for 6V but ended up shelving it for other projects.
Depending on your mod, you can possibly use a big 18650 3.7V battery, slap on a 1.5Ω atty and achieve close to the same results of what your getting now, save for the scorching
Another important part about multimeters (volt meters) Set it to the ↨ setting >20,>200 whatever is the lowest number and hold the contacts together, watch your meter's screen for where the number stops, you will then deduct this number as a standard from all readings. Digital meters have a strong habit of having this differential.
I appreciate your concern! They are "Tenergy LiFePO4 RCR123A 3.0v" batteries, so they should go down lower than 3v near the end of their discharge cycle, correct? I was just saying that by time I get down there, to around 6v, I switch sets as I like a strong vape(at least on this setup). Maybe I should also clarify that I am using the 801 Fusion Punch! cartos in a tank. I would never run 72.5ohms at 6.6v, but the fusions I've used so far have all metered at 3ohms, both on the provari and with my DMM. It doesn't burn up the carto...
It vaped so good and now that you mention it I never actually did the math...... but fresh batts at 3.32v each.... so 6.64v total... that gives me 14.7 watts! Definitely the highest wattage setup I've run to date, but a fantastic vape.
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