I get burnt taste when atty is dry.
One solution: Direct drip 2 drops on atty. Take about 13 hits. Repeat.
One solution: Direct drip 2 drops on atty. Take about 13 hits. Repeat.
Fustrated with these ecigs
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Thank you for the ever-so-helpful post.
But you're right.. there is a HUGE difference. Less vapor production, poor quality control, massive inconsistency from carto to carto, and the pure joy of inhaling burnt and melting poly. Huge.
This is only my 3rd day vaping, and I was having a few issues with my atomizers, being the tinkerer I am I decided to dig into my atty some and saw that the fibers under the bridge looked burnt, so I dug them out of one of my attys to see what would happen.
After removing them it still hit just fine and it got rid of the burning flavor I was experiencing. Everything still seems to be working fine if not better than it was before.
Why are those fibers there, they were seriously charred on one end and had to be the source of the burnt taste I was getting.
Those fibers wick the juice off cart filler. No fibers means the liquid from your cart wont be getting on to the coil in the atty.
Every once in a while I soak my attys in alcohol overnite and let them dry for a day or so.This helps to get rid of any gunk on the coil and cleans the atty overall.
attys work almost like brand new after that.
Hmmmm, weird. Maybe they were just parts of fibers that had been burnt. The atomizer I did this to still seems to be working fine, I'm sitting here vaping on it as I type this (I've finally learned how to get AMAZING throat hits off my 510, as a matter of fact, the last one made me light-headed!).
Actually.. the fibers on the 510 are the "supplemental" wick. They deliver EXTRA liquid to the coil. If you remove them you end up with an atty that is much like a 901 and other models. It will work.. but it typically won't give you the clouds of vapor that you can get with a stock 510 atty.
Exactly what happened to me - I lost one atty the other night - 1st in going on 5 months but I had a poor performer - the one where I accidently pulled some of the bridge wicking out - not all of it and it still runs just doesn't have the vapor production of the others.
Don,t experiment too much with removing fibers in the atty. I removed the brown fibers inside my 510 and it end up damaged.
I am just as frustrated as you! Yes, it IS those fibers under the atty bridge causing the burning taste. When these fibers burn up you will get crappy taste, excessive fluid usage, and a drowning atomizer. It is really becoming a PITA for me also. I just calculated my cost per day to vape as compared to smoke and it was not all that impressive. Yes, I am using a lot more fluid due to shot atomizers also, which could play a big factor. My average consumption is 6.67ml/day. Making it myself in lot purchases of 500ml 60mg nic and Loranne flavors, atomizer consumption, and battery consumption puts my usage at $3.90 per day. Smoking a pack and a half a day cost me about 6.25. Smoking analogs has no hassle. I enjoy vaping much more when it works like it should and analogs taste like crap, but time consumption on top and it is a toss up. Yea, analogs may kill me quicker, but when using all my time keeping vaping up and running counterbalances it, which is the better choice? Still contemplating....
As far as the atomizer fibers burning... my best suggestion... never let the atomizer run dry. See the ADM mod and use the blue foam as a plug. I have done extensive testing with atty bridges and absorbtion properties of wool, cotton, polyfill, blue foam, and lipton tea bags. End result, use the blue foam and a small spring. If the spring, or any cart enhancement pushed down on the atty bridge it will compress the bridge and kill the porous properties. You will then flood and build up excessive junk on the coil. This will cause you to have to dry burn to get rid of it. Dry burning then kills the atty fibers. One big crap sandwich, once you take the first bite you are forced to finish the sandwich!
Another tip. Use an atty until the first HINT of loss in performance. Then use a cleaner like the ice maker cleaner mentioned in some threads. Have multiple atomizers and rotate them out.
Hope this helps, as for me, I am broke. Nickel and diming myself at 6.00 per day is my only option here. The initial investment of vaping is too much for me as of now. Is it the healthier alternative? Guess that depends on your stress tolerances and patience of getting vaping running successfully for you. I would love to vape only, and have done so for over two weeks, but my supply has run out and CVS has my smokes on sale.
As far as the atomizer fibers burning... my best suggestion... never let the atomizer run dry. See the ADM mod and use the blue foam as a plug. I have done extensive testing with atty bridges and absorbtion properties of wool, cotton, polyfill, blue foam, and lipton tea bags. End result, use the blue foam and a small spring. If the spring, or any cart enhancement pushed down on the atty bridge it will compress the bridge and kill the porous properties. You will then flood and build up excessive junk on the coil. This will cause you to have to dry burn to get rid of it. Dry burning then kills the atty fibers. One big crap sandwich, once you take the first bite you are forced to finish the sandwich!
Another tip. Use an atty until the first HINT of loss in performance. Then use a cleaner like the ice maker cleaner mentioned in some threads. Have multiple atomizers and rotate them out.
Hope this helps, as for me, I am broke. Nickel and diming myself at 6.00 per day is my only option here. The initial investment of vaping is too much for me as of now. Is it the healthier alternative? Guess that depends on your stress tolerances and patience of getting vaping running successfully for you. I would love to vape only, and have done so for over two weeks, but my supply has run out and CVS has my smokes on sale.
During my first 30 days with this hobby I followed all the advice for cleaning attys to the point that I spent more time fiddling with them than I did using them. The more I 'cleaned and adjusted' them the more they failed. Eventually I got lazy just blowing them out on a paper towel at the end of the day and this lack of maintenance has made all of the difference. Atomizers are like apples... Buy them in bulk and you'll find several that are just awesome, a few that are terrible and the rest 'are what they are', a cheap electronic item that lasts 30 to 60 days and is tossed.
Less vapor production: That's a pretty consistent observation regarding the KR808D-1. It produces less vapor than a 510. Pretty much a fact.
Poor quality control: The forum is littered with observations regarding cartomizers that didn't have the groove cut (yes, from V4L), cartomizers that won't screw on, cartomizers that had varying levels of fiberfill in them, cartomizers that have varying levels of liquid in them, cartomizers that were "dead out of the box", automatic batteries (new) that stick on, PCC's that die within a week. I agree that the QC on most of these PV's isn't great.. heck, it's not even good. But the Kanger stuff appears to be worse than most.
Massive inconsistency from cart-to-cart: Yes. Period.
Inhaling burnt and melting poly: By design, when the KR808D-1 runs dry the internal poly burns and melts. You can tell me not to worry about it.... but I won't believe you. On the other hand, PV's like the 510, 901, M702, 801, etc.. do NOT have any such material in their design that melts or burns when the liquid runs dry. The fiberglass wick doesn't melt or burn at coil temps. The metal sponge mesh does not melt or burn, and if you get the cartridge to melt due to high atty bridge temps, you have abused the PV so much that you might as well take a match to it.
Feel free to counter those observations and/or facts.
Probably safer using PGA, pure grain alcohol, than rubbing
Always good to see voices of reason!
But you're right.. there is a HUGE difference. Less vapor production, poor quality control, massive inconsistency from carto to carto, and the pure joy of inhaling burnt and melting poly. Huge.
Not all of us have that problem with a 2-piece. I had the 510 and NHaler juices. The vapor production was about the same as the VK I have now (on the other hand, I'm not one to need mushroom clouds of vapor to get a good vaping experience). Nor have I had the massive carto inconsistencies that you speak of. I've had a bum carto or two, for sure, but I've seen many posts about bum atty's right out of the box as well --which would also fall under the poor quality control category that you mentioned. As for inhaling burnt and melting poly, yes, that will happen if you run the carto too dry, and you can get that same burnt taste if you run an atty too dry, among other other reasons (judging by this thread).
Really, the bottom line is that it's all in what you want. Some people simply can't deal with dripping, tea bag/straw/whatever mods, and those people will do better with a 2-piece e-cig. Others will prefer the dripping and mods, etc. and wouldn't like a 2-piece model. That's why there are so many models and mods out there --one size won't fit all.
I can't stand the wick in a 510. Flavors, including the flavor of burnt socks, would stay in that wick forever. I had to try to wash the attys every day or 2- they'd get gunked up and the wick kept turning brown in spots and halfway falling out.
Meh!
So I got a m401. No wick. I can completely clean the atty out by blowing on it so I can change flavors easily, and I haven't rinsed one in months. No burnt taste, not once.
I find I get more flavor and in my experience more vapor from a 410- though that may be because I switched over to 100% vg instead of a mix.
Meh!
So I got a m401. No wick. I can completely clean the atty out by blowing on it so I can change flavors easily, and I haven't rinsed one in months. No burnt taste, not once.
I find I get more flavor and in my experience more vapor from a 410- though that may be because I switched over to 100% vg instead of a mix.
I'd be overjoyed with 30-60 days!!!! I have just gone through 3 in 2 weeks. Working on removing the bridge and fiberglass to do a direct to the coil juicer now! Working pretty well so far, and reclaiming 3 atomizers that still fire up but have toated bridges/fiberglass.
I'll counter this: "On the other hand, PV's like the 510, 901, M702, 801, etc.. do NOT have any such material in their design that melts or burns when the liquid runs dry."
The 510 sure does. Can't speak for the others, but this I know as fact.
On every atomizer I had which lost taste and vapor I looked into the atomizer to find burnt material just under the bridge, at the peek. The area between the actual bridge mesh and metal bridge under it. I picked this material out with tweezers for the atty to never function again. It was a fiberglass type strand. I do not use poly, only the blue foam. I know it was not poly strands. The burnt material stuck out so far that I questioned which orientation I should put the cart on with (wider area to cover the bridge or this burnt material).
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