FYI subohm vapers

[koski88]

Here's a battery chart I found that's very useful for safety information on using the correct batteries for your subohm vaping.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Saltraker]

Fuzzy picture. Can you please post the link?

 

[Ryedan]

There is another chart with that info here created by Steam Turbine and Baditude. It's not visible for me when I go to the page, but click 'file' and then 'download' and you'll have a PDF of it. Here's a pic:

 

[Sickkboy]

Thanks to Stream Turbine and Baditude that make this chart, it cover most battery we use in mod and really easy to understand. Already downloaded from the moment I found that thread.

 

[Saltraker]

Thanks, Ryedan. BTW, is there a chart showing similar information for all the batts regarding limits above sub-ohm. I'm not into sub-ohm (maybe someday) but am interested in knowing best batts for around 1.5 to 1.8 ohms.

 

[VapingTurtle]

Thanks, Ryedan. BTW, is there a chart showing similar information for all the batts regarding limits above sub-ohm. I'm not into sub-ohm (maybe someday) but am interested in knowing best batts for around 1.5 to 1.8 ohms.

The ones that hold their voltage above your lowest limit the longest.

For mechanicals, the ones that I've found hold their voltage above 3.7v longest have been the Sammy INR18650-20R and the AW 18650 1600mAh (not the 2000mAh).

For regulated (VV/VW) PVs, above 3.4v, the Panny CGR-CH and NCR-PD are my choice.

Just my opinions. Ignore advertised mAh ratings. Look at the discharge curves.

 

[Saltraker]

Thanks, VT.

 

[Ryedan]

Thanks, Ryedan. BTW, is there a chart showing similar information for all the batts regarding limits above sub-ohm. I'm not into sub-ohm (maybe someday) but am interested in knowing best batts for around 1.5 to 1.8 ohms.

Saltraker, I don't think there are any more batteries that come into the picture at those resistances. You still need to stay with IMR or hybrid chemistries for the safety they provide in not burning when they vent when over-driven or completely shorted. I would not vape an ICR, high mAh battery in any device.

I likely would go with the Panasonic NCR18650PF, 2900 mAh which I've read is slightly better than the PD. I think the PF is in the chart above as just 'P'. In any case, both of these are safe and are great batteries.

 

[Baditude]

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24A
18490 (1100mah) 16.5A
18350 ​(700mah) 6A

MNKE IMR
18650 1500mah ​20A

Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PF (LiNiCOMnO2) INR/ICR/IMR Hybrid 2900mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A
Orbtronic 18650 SX22 (hybrid) 2000mAh 22A
Orbtronic 18650 SX30 (hybrid) 2100mAh ​30A
Panasonic/Orbtronic NCR18650A 3100mAh 6.8A (not high drain)
Panasonic/Orbtronic NCR18650B 3400mAh 6.8A (not high drain)

Sanyo
UR18650EX 2000mAh 20A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-22P 2200mAh 10A
INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A

Sony hybrid
us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A
us18650vct3 1600mAh 30A
us18650vtc4 2100 mAh 30A

EH IMR
18650 2000 mAh 16A
18650 1500 mAh 22A
18500 1100 mAh 8.8A
18350 800 mAh 6.4A

Efest IMR
18650 (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
18650 2000mAh 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A
18490 1100mah 8.8A
18350 800mah 6.4A

 

[mrdeltoid]

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR

May I ask what this stands for?

 

[grindle]

CDR = Constant Discharge Rate

Means what it says, you should be able to safely discharge the battery down to the cut-off voltage by holding the button down with no ill-effect.

This is in contrast to the pulse rate where the battery may be capable of putting out many more amps but only for a second or two at a time.
Building coils to suit the pulse discharge rate (if known) will likely end with a dead battery at some stage as you decide to become more adventurous, so just don't do it. If you want to push more power get better batteries. If the 24A or 30A batteries aren't enough for you (unlikely but you might be the 0.1%) get a dual-18650 mech made.

 

[mrdeltoid]

I see. Thanks!

 

[koski88]

Sorry about the fuzzy picture guys, didn't realize it until now seeing as I haven't been on the forum since I posted this, my bad and thanks Ryedan for helping out with a better pic!

 

[Baditude]

May I ask what this stands for?

CDR stands for "continuous discharge rate in amps". It is the standard specification used when rating the amps of batteries for sub-ohms. Some people use the "pulse rating in amps", but the majority of sub-ohmers use the CDR specification.

 

[Ryedan]

CDR = Constant Discharge Rate

Means what it says, you should be able to safely discharge the battery down to the cut-off voltage by holding the button down with no ill-effect.

This is in contrast to the pulse rate where the battery may be capable of putting out many more amps but only for a second or two at a time.
Building coils to suit the pulse discharge rate (if known) will likely end with a dead battery at some stage as you decide to become more adventurous, so just don't do it. If you want to push more power get better batteries. If the 24A or 30A batteries aren't enough for you (unlikely but you might be the 0.1%) get a dual-18650 mech made.

You got it grindle. Once you are into the pulse discharge rate the battery is heating up. I believe the minimum time frame is 5 seconds, but don't quote me on that . The higher you go with the discharge, the quicker the temperature increases. When it reaches 'too hot' the battery will vent at which point the only thing keeping your mod from behaving like a pipe bomb are the vent hole(s).