Genny + nickel wire advice.

[BuzzKilla]

I got me a DNA40 flask and want to set my Genny up with some ss and take advantage of the temp control....

Who here has done it?

I'm playing with a TI steam turbine & a VA Kraken. Probably irrelevant, but just thought I would share.

I love my dual coil SS builds.... If you have attempted this let me hear your thoughts.

Note:
If you mention cotton or any other variation of that I will ignore it, as I have plenty of drippers to accommodate such setups.

Gauge wire /wraps / temp settings...

Share em if you are willing!

 

[CrazyCory564]

I got me a DNA40 flask and want to set my Genny up with some ss and take advantage of the temp control....

Who here has done it?

I'm playing with a TI steam turbine & a VA Kraken. Probably irrelevant, but just thought I would share.

I love my dual coil SS builds.... If you have attempted this let me hear your thoughts.

Note:
If you mention cotton or any other variation of that I will ignore it, as I have plenty of drippers to accommodate such setups.

Gauge wire /wraps / temp settings...

Share em if you are willing!

Cotton...
Jkkk.

It might be tough though. Remember that the temp protect feature works by reading the resistance of your wire at a baseline temp (75 degrees), measuring the resistance increase as the temp increases to find (supposed) temperature, and cuts back power when it thinks the temp is getting near the set limit.

Because of this, residual heat in the atomizer will greatly affect the performance. Since mesh tends to heat up atomizers faster than cotton, you may very well find yourself needing to take breaks to let the atty cool, or it will not perform well at all.

 

[BuzzKilla]

That heat soak completely skipped my mind... Still going to try it though.

After some playing around, I'll post up my setup.

But if anyone has done this successfully, post it up !

 

[MsLoud]

Here is a dna user group on FB - may help you

https://www.facebook.com/groups/334013750105420/?fref=nf

 

[EDO]

I don't have a dna 40 device but I would think it would work very very well with a mesh set up. The fact that nickel is basically non resistant wire would make it so the current would stay in the wire and you won't have shorts or micro sorts. I remember some one posted that he was using nickel wire/ dna 40 with his genesis and it was the best vape he had ever tried. I don't know which section of the forum it was posted. OP please let us know how it works out.

 

[Chelonian]

Yes let us know. I havent tried nickel yet, would like to see a trusted source on this.
Specially with mesh. Heck, I set up my drippers with mesh


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[BuzzKilla]

So i used what i had on hand.....

325 mesh (cinawick method)
28 ga. nickel (10 wrap dual coil)
Ti Steam Turbine

the ohms is a lot lower than i would like, going to need to source out some 32 ga. and try again.
i would like to push it to 40 watts without a low atty warning.

conclusion....
if you know how to build a genny, using nickel will be easy.
Took me about 15 minutes to setup this atty start to finish.

i was expecting the DNA board to give me issues while pulsing the nickel, but it cooperated nicely.

Unlike the Provari P3 which is a nightmare when being paired with a genny tank.... but that is a story for another time.

 

[Chelonian]

Thanks
I will have to try this
The P3 wont pulse?

My p2.5 works great with gennys



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[EDO]

How does it vape?

 

[BuzzKilla]

P3 dislikes shorts, and takes a while for the menu to clear up before you can attempt to fire.

But the P3 is more sensitive than the 2.5.
And the safety kicks in faster making pulsing almost impossible on a fresh wick.

It Vapes alright, but I need thinner wire.... Takes too long to ramp up to temp.

 

[Chelonian]

Yet another reason for me to not buy the P3.

I think that I will Flask it. I havent heard any complaints about it(I hate being the test subject aka early adopter)

Yah, I rarely use below 28 gauge on gennies.
It takes dual wick to subohm good with them for me

Single wicks i like 5/6 wrap with 28, or 4/5 wrap with 30.

Gennys are the only reason that I have 30 gauge


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[WattWick]

Been stalking this thread. Just wanted to say thanks for taking the plunge. Been curious about how this temperature control / nickel wire would work with mesh.

Have to mention I know nothing about the subject, but have noticed some people talk about titanium wire possibly being better or easier to work with or such. Given it any thought?

 

[BuzzKilla]

actually, i got a line on some Ti wire... but for me the cost isnt worth it, as i have found nickel wire works just fine.... and it is not as "fiddly" as people make it out to be.

32 gauge works a treat..... and dare i say... it "chucks" the vaporz!

Mini clouds......

 

[WattWick]

Hmm maybe the future is now.

A random something with a DNA40 board just jumped higher on the wish list.

 

[BuzzKilla]

just uploaded a mini video for ya....

and honestly ...... flavor has improved with temp regulation.... I didnt think it was possible, but it is perfect!

 

[BuzzKilla]

Just thought i would add one more thing.

after switching to 32ga. i have yet to trip the "temperature protection" on the DNA 40 board.

Actually.... i did once or twice, but that was due to my dripper (derringer) being dry, so that doesn't really count.

 

[BuzzKilla]

Yet another reason for me to not buy the P3.
I think that I will Flask it. I havent heard any complaints about it(I hate being the test subject aka early adopter)
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Do what i did..... Bought a clone Flask and a DNA40 Chip. same performance, a quarter of the cost.

I was greatly disappointed with what passes as "professional" quality mods. As i have friends with deep pockets, i am able to get a first hand look at the latest and greatest.
Since i am proficient at soldering i took it upon myself to put one together properly.
Only reason for going with a flask was for the dual battery layout.

 

[BuzzKilla]

and one last post just for gloating rights.....

Its fun to own your own laser engraver!

 

[WattWick]

Very nice indeed!

 

[Chelonian]

Buzz, first off Niiiiiice!

Secondly
You are so unfortunately correct.
It has gotten so bad that if a modder has not been active for at least 4 years I assume that it is sub par until proven otherwise.
The only reason that clones have become so popular is because so many greedy mediocre talents put out mods that were worth about $50 a $60, and charged $200 plus.

I clearly remember when an expensive mod was $180, and that was the Matte Ice Roller.
Then Super T brought out the ELA right when things were really lighting up.
So many people bought them who were new to vaping, and the V1 ELA was NOT a beginners device.
If you tightened the sleeve down too hard, it would lift the sleeve over the gasket, thereby ruining conductivity.

I finally gave up trying to explain what body conductivity was. Meanwhile, people would crank it down, complain about the hot button, crank it harder, complain about the hotter button. You never heard from the after that - they were prolly looking for a pipe wrench

Anyways

To me, there are three true modders that make mods that truly rise above the level of just a tool:

Super T (RIP, o inventor o the drip tip, developer of the double grounded button)

GP

Armstique

Also, Poldiac and MMV
Not saying that there are not other good mods out there, just that those modders even finished the INSIDE of their mods.

Then, about two years ago, people were charging $250 for mods made from extruded stock, and came with just one tube size.

Heck, I have seen a Lux - and it is in no way, shape or form worth $300+ for a 18350 hybrid dripper.
Sheesh

/rant off


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