Want advice on first DNA40 Nickel Build

[nclay]

Hey All,
My wife was nice enough to put a Vapor Flask DNA40 under the tree for me this year.
I want to try a Nickel build to use the temp control feature but I'm really not sure on wraps. I have some 28ga NI200 that was also gifted to me.

I really would like to dual coil it but from doing a bit of research it seems that you need a bunch of wraps just to get over 0.1Ω

In short, what do i need to do to get above 0.1Ω dual coil with 28 gauge nickel wire?



Thanks in advance!

 

[Pocha]

There is a huge thread in the Variable Voltage sub forum you should definitely check out. But THIS is a great primer in the meantime...

DNA 40 Tips - Rebel Vaper

Good luck. I'm still learning myself. Love my Flask!

 

[Pocha]

And I would avoid dual coils until you nail a single coil build.

 

[RCHagy74]

Damned If I can remember where I read it... Brandon from EVOLV had said spacing between the wraps is recommended. Also, on Taste Your juice, EVOLV was also recommending around a .4 coil. After reading here I saw someone was using a 6/32 machine screw. Helps to keep the wraps separated and well formed. Carefully twist it out after getting the leads down and wick. Worked real nice. That ni200 stuff is soft.
Oh, I did an 8 wrap coil on the screw and it came out about .3ohm.


RC Hagy

 

[nclay]

So i tried my first nickel build this morning. It was a 12 wrap of 28 gauge, micro coil. When i first put it on the device it said 0.11Ω. After about an hour of use it is reading 0.07Ω. I really can't tell if its working correctly, does it take time to settle? It seems the temp control is working OK, i did get one hit that tasted very slightly burnt, set at 450F. It never actually says temperature protected, when i vape the temp reading ranges from 419 to 439. Is this working correctly?

I do notice that it is a warm vape for about a second during the ramp up and then goes cool for the rest of the pull.

 

[Mike 586]

IF you notice that it hits slight harder at the start, its a near sure bet something somewhere doesn't have a solid connection. The usual suspects would be where the wires are trapped, the way the device is seated (gotta make sure those connection points are clean) or somewhere in your RDA/RTA/whatever itself.

If everything is done right, you just shouldn't notice any ramp up at all. If you're noticing a near burn taste, there's absolutely no doubt. There's a problem with the build.

I'm still waiting on some lower gauge wires and all I have right now is 32, so I can't comment on 30 or 28 gauge builds yet. I have 100' rolls of 30 and 28 in the mail...its just taking way longer than I'm used to to arrive. In any case I've got a pile of new toys to keep me busy that I have no intention of putting nickel in while I wait.

Anyway, with the 32 gauge, I'm using either a 6-32 SS or 8-32 machine screw depending on my mood. One thing I've done to the two screws I use is run them through a scotch pad a few times to wear them smooth, then I clean them off and throw them in my building box. A single burr or sharp thread on those things makes screwing them out a pain if you rolled it tight. Also, coating the screw with whatever juice you plan to use helps lubricate it for getting the screw out, then a very quick dry burn before wicking helps matters.

 

[nclay]

IF you notice that it hits slight harder at the start, its a near sure bet something somewhere doesn't have a solid connection. The usual suspects would be where the wires are trapped, the way the device is seated (gotta make sure those connection points are clean) or somewhere in your RDA/RTA/whatever itself.

If everything is done right, you just shouldn't notice any ramp up at all. If you're noticing a near burn taste, there's absolutely no doubt. There's a problem with the build.

I'm still waiting on some lower gauge wires and all I have right now is 32, so I can't comment on 30 or 28 gauge builds yet. I have 100' rolls of 30 and 28 in the mail...its just taking way longer than I'm used to to arrive. In any case I've got a pile of new toys to keep me busy that I have no intention of putting nickel in while I wait.

Anyway, with the 32 gauge, I'm using either a 6-32 SS or 8-32 machine screw depending on my mood. One thing I've done to the two screws I use is run them through a scotch pad a few times to wear them smooth, then I clean them off and throw them in my building box. A single burr or sharp thread on those things makes screwing them out a pain if you rolled it tight. Also, coating the screw with whatever juice you plan to use helps lubricate it for getting the screw out, then a very quick dry burn before wicking helps matters.

Damn, ill have to give it another shot. Thanks for the advice!

 

[RandyF]

Click the link in my signature. I made a thread with a very easy to build, basic coil that works very well. It is a good starting point if you are new to Ni coils. I have had a DNA40 from the beginning and it is still the coil I use.

 

[ilmostro99]

When wicking, I've found it to be much better to use 2 very thin pieces of cotton and thread them through simultaneously in opposite directions. I'm able to keep the shape of my coil much better this way.