getting a hole drilled

[randpost]

I was wondering if there was some sort of local shop that would drill some small holes for me into stainless steel. Anyone know of any?

small enough to barely let the end of an average paper staple through.

 

[lawnman3]

local where are you

 

[randpost]

Phoenix AZ
I'll submit a pick of what I want drilled.

 

[modestmark]

hahahahahahahaha.
i'm sorry.
*gasps for air*
but the title of this thread.
hahahahahaha

 

[modestmark]

oh, and I could totally do that.
I dont know where you live, I'm in southern california.
pm me if interested.

 

[randpost]

Okay, so I took a picture. Not the clearest picture, but it will work for describing what I would like to do.

From top
1: A 901 atty that I gutted
2: 510 to 901 adapter
3: Center post for the 510 to 901 adapter
4: Bottom post for the 901 atty I gutted

I figured I could drill a few holes in the middle of 3: and a few holes in the center of 2: to get the adapter to work for Kr Cartomizers. I cant drill a hole in the threading of the 510 - 901 adapter because of the rubber that would block the airflow.

I already have a 901 -> cartomizer adapter and it works with my 510->901 adapter, but the length of the two adapters together leaves much to be desired.

 

[randpost]

hahahahahahahaha.
i'm sorry.
*gasps for air*
but the title of this thread.
hahahahahaha

lol, I should have thought a little more before choosing that title

 

[Scottbee]

The 510 Cartomizer adapter will be available from AltSmoke in a few days. That'll save you some trouble.

 

[MaxUT]

The 510 Cartomizer adapter will be available from AltSmoke in a few days. That'll save you some trouble.

And some money. Machine shop rates run $50-$80 per hour.

I've drilled thousands of small holes in stainless, and it's not the easiest material to drill.

 

[randpost]

Can anyone recommend a decent drill?

 

[MaxUT]

Can anyone recommend a decent drill?

Drill "bit"?
Use the shortest drill you can find that will do the job, probably a screw machine length. A 135º split point will penetrate easier and require less thrust and reduces the tendency to "walk."

Stainless steel tends to work-harden as you cut it, so keep up a steady moderate pressure when drilling, otherwise the bottom of the hole hardens ahead of the drill and takes increased pressure to make the drill "bite;" this is where most cutting edge damage takes place, especially when you break through the bottom. A little bit of melted lard or bacon grease will help lubricate it but isn't essential.

If you get one of the Titanium Nitride coated ones it will work slightly better and last longer. These are the gold colored type. M-42 is the best alloy for heat resistance and good wear but costs more. Regular HSS will do for a few holes.

Check here if you need to order:
McMaster-Carr


I was a machinist for 20 years and still order cutting tools for other machinists.