Okay, first off, I'll have to say forgive the fact that right now I don't have pics. I'll have to briefly explain why, so bear with me.
Two days ago I purchased the Ego-T Upgrade, and a dct tank, and some liquid, and a few tips; but I forgot to grab cartos. That was my first mistake. Once i got the tank/dct combo as it came I realized that it's tiny hole couldn't even let air out into the tube to switch with liquid, so I tried to punch it, and broke it...
Thus I've cut that tank to fit some other cartos I had on hand at the moment, and it's now too short to do this with.
HOWEVER - I DID try it out, and once accomplished I realized the hole was in fact in the wrong spot and is now plugged with hot glue as it resides right on the damn top gasket >.<
So now that we've gotten past that part - Here's the disclaimer.
----------------------------DISCLAIMER----------------------------
ECF Forums, its members, and myself are NOT responsible for any irreversible damage you may do to your tank when attempting this. I used bits/thumb screws that were wide enough to use with each other, and every thumb screw is different (by mm, but they're different.)
Materials Needed:
Thumb Screws: Grab some thumb screws for computer cases. There are MANY different types. Some are completely metal, some are screws with the heads wrapped in plastic, and some of the ones that are wrapped in plastic have a gap before the head where liquid COULD possibly leak out (these are the kind that i have on hand, and mine work fine, but that doens't mean that they will for you,) so I suggest something with a flat backed head as to prevent leakage.
Where? You can get these for ANY computer supply store - Newegg, Microcenter, Directron, TigerDirect, CompUSA, etc.
NYLON THUMB SCREWS ARE RECOMMENDED UNLESS YOU KNOW FOR A FACT THAT THE METAL ONES YOU HAVE ARE STAINLESS, NOT NICKEL PLATED!!! NICKEL IS POISON TO BOTH YOUR LUMGS, AND SKIN SO DO NOT USE THESE!!!
How Much? Literally like two dollars. They're dirt cheap for a pack of four / Some companies even sell them in packs of two's.
DCT Tank: You will need an (possibly two if you're a dunce at times) Extra DCT Tank. Plastic, glass, polycarbonate will all work, BUT if you use glass you're going to need a wet drill, and I HIGHLY doubt most of you have one, so plastic, or poly will work easiest, and best.
3.5mm will work, but don't be surprised if you've got a "shorty" tank that is wider than deep, and it prevents you from doing this. I'd reccommend getting a 6ml tank as they'll work better because they're taller all the time - there's no guess work.
Drill: I would recommend a variable speed drill as they're less likely to punch through the tank's other side from spinning too fast when it finally breaks through. If you don't have one - there are ways to resolve this problem before it's possibility occurs. A small piece of steel, or wood can help prevent you from any "whoops" moments when drilling. Just slide them into the tank, and drill away. Alternatively if you have a few ball point pens that are metal, or plastic cram a few of their tubes into there, and that'll work just as well when they're packed tight enough.
As previously stated, if you're using a glass tank then you'll need a wet drill. Attempting to do a "dry drill" will just crack/break your glass, and kill your bit's head/threads.
Drill Bit: You'll need a bit that fits your specific thumb screw. I can't give you an exact size as due to the afformentioned they're various in width my 'x' mm (it's a manufacturing issue. They're SUPPOSED to all be the same, but sometimes they're not, so be prepared.
Scrap wood/steel/pen tubes, etc.: These are used to fill the tank to prevent "over drilling" when you break clean of the tank while making your hole.
Sharpie Marker, or something to make a notch/mark on the tube: Well, that pretty much explained it's purpose didn't it
Xacto Knife, Or Variable Speed Dremmel with coniferous sanding bit. (polishing bit could work too on poly tanks)
You'll be using this little guy to make sure that all the "nibs" on the tank created by drilling get removed, and smoothed out as not to affect tank sterility/sanitation.
Soap / Sterilizer: For soap I myself used Green Soap, and then did a few heavy rinses with distilled water, then ran the poly tank into the microwave sterilizer I use on my daughters bottles (hey, it may not be gas, but it works.)
You can alternatively use DAWN (hey, it gets REFINED OIL off DUCKS!) or something equally as strong such as GoJo (anyone in motors/construction knows what this is.)
As for sterilizing, you can use sterilizing hand soap, or a microwave sterilizer, or any other sterilization method needed.
**NOTE** If you use hand soap you WILL need to do a few more rinses in a "clean" area to make sure you get it off. Imagine smoking alcohol )
That's it. Now on to the Instructions.
Step 1. Put the top closure onto your tank (doesn't matter which "end" as either one can be top.) Mark where it ends, and a little bit past that point. Put your thumb screw up to it to make sure that WHERE you drill WILL give you enough clearance before the closure is in the tank. If you don't do this JUST right you'll be causing yourself a new tank, or shortening the one you have (or closing it in whatever fashion you can as it'll leak.
Step 2. Once marked begin preparations to stabilize your tank. There are SO many ways to do this it's RIDICULOUS so I didn't list this in the materials. I myself used some memory foam I had on hand, and folded it up, then stapled it together on the ends , and used it as a "pillow." Worked just fine for me, but you can use a clamp, your hands, or whatever you want/declare necessary.
Step 3. Remove the closure that you inserted for marking, and measure the bits you have to make sure that they're JUST (literally like a mm smaller) than the screw base for the thumb screw. NOT THE THREADING!! THE SCREW! This will ensure the threads go in nice, and snug, and close the hole well.
Step 4. Insert the drill bit that matches your screw into your drill, then insert your "overdrill prevention" method into your tank (if you decided to use one.) and get at it. Some would say to do this "level" whereas I myself think that it would be better at a "downward" angle as it'll make filling a little easier for long needles, fat tube heads, etc. (BTW - Get at it means "start drilling your hole.)
Step 5. When you finally "break" with the bit, make sure that you don't just yank it out. Set the drill to reverse, and "thread it out." by reversing the drill process. This keeps the drilled hole smooth, and prevents any extra cuts. Make sure you do this EXACTLY at the same level as you drilled in or your hole will get bigger than you intended.
Step 6. Try fitting your thumb screw in. NOTE** It WILL take quite a bit of pressure, but not enough to bend your tank to get the initial thread in. This is due to the fact of how tight we made the hole. If it seems too easy - guess what, you fudged, and used the wrong bit, or drilled extra when pulling out your bit. Grab another tank, and try again. Or test it, and see if it works (odds are it won't but hey, who knows.)
Step 7. If it works, then you're golden....almost. You now need to insert your cartomizer into the tank with the bottom closure on it. This will keep the cartomizer straight while you do this next part.
Step 8. Once the cartomizer is inserted, and level with the top of the tank (MAKE SURE IT"S LEVEL! ) compare the thumb screw by holding it's head base against the outside of the tank. Right now we're verifying that the thumb screw isn't too long! If it is, it'll move your carto and/or possibly damage it! IF it is, then take some good strong wire cutters, or a metal file, sander, whatever you have that'll do the job; and cut just a few mm off the "tip" of the screws threading. Then try it again. Repeat this until it's SLIGHTLY smaller than the tank to cartomizer radius. Once that's done move on.
Step 9. Insert top closure, and fill your tank with WATER! NOT LIQUID! We need to make sure it doesn't leak without wasting liquid don't we?!? If it leaks, then it's too wide, or your threading just isn't good enough, and isn't holding it in. You can either grab a new tank, and try again, or go to a loacal hardware store, and ask for a gasket small enough to fit around the thumb screw. (they should have one - just bring it with you, as most of them have NO clue what a thumb screw is. They'll think you're talking about a wing nut, and they are NOT the same.
Step 10. If you've passed step nine, and there's no leakage then it's time to prep for sterilization. Remove the water, and both top, and bottom closure. Check the inside of the tank, and outside too. Remove any "nibs" that are left from the drilling process, and CAREFULLY do so. You don't want to fudge your hole up now do you?
Step 11. Once the nibs are removed wash your tank using your soap. Use water that is as hot as you can tolerate bare handed. We need to get all the oil from your hands, and the dead skin/dust from your air out of this tank.
Step 12. Sterilize your tank. Use whatever method of sterilization you trust. (Remember, if you're using hand sanitizer you need to do a couple distilled rinses just to be safe.)
Step 13. Close your tank up, insert the carto, and then fill through your new "Quick Fill" hole. Plug it up with your thumb screw, and enjoy the new simplicity you've just created with your own two hands!
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm knowledgeable in every aspect of anything necessary here, so I can give more alternatives if necessary. I hope that you like this tutorial, and apologize for any lack of pictures/video. When my new tank gets here I'll be doing this to it, and will record a video of me doing so, or take pictures. Which ever. (pictures won't have my screaming baby in them, so that's the most likely one we'll have up here.
Congratulations, and GL!
Two days ago I purchased the Ego-T Upgrade, and a dct tank, and some liquid, and a few tips; but I forgot to grab cartos. That was my first mistake. Once i got the tank/dct combo as it came I realized that it's tiny hole couldn't even let air out into the tube to switch with liquid, so I tried to punch it, and broke it...
Thus I've cut that tank to fit some other cartos I had on hand at the moment, and it's now too short to do this with.
HOWEVER - I DID try it out, and once accomplished I realized the hole was in fact in the wrong spot and is now plugged with hot glue as it resides right on the damn top gasket >.<
So now that we've gotten past that part - Here's the disclaimer.
----------------------------DISCLAIMER----------------------------
ECF Forums, its members, and myself are NOT responsible for any irreversible damage you may do to your tank when attempting this. I used bits/thumb screws that were wide enough to use with each other, and every thumb screw is different (by mm, but they're different.)
Materials Needed:
Thumb Screws: Grab some thumb screws for computer cases. There are MANY different types. Some are completely metal, some are screws with the heads wrapped in plastic, and some of the ones that are wrapped in plastic have a gap before the head where liquid COULD possibly leak out (these are the kind that i have on hand, and mine work fine, but that doens't mean that they will for you,) so I suggest something with a flat backed head as to prevent leakage.
Where? You can get these for ANY computer supply store - Newegg, Microcenter, Directron, TigerDirect, CompUSA, etc.
NYLON THUMB SCREWS ARE RECOMMENDED UNLESS YOU KNOW FOR A FACT THAT THE METAL ONES YOU HAVE ARE STAINLESS, NOT NICKEL PLATED!!! NICKEL IS POISON TO BOTH YOUR LUMGS, AND SKIN SO DO NOT USE THESE!!!
How Much? Literally like two dollars. They're dirt cheap for a pack of four / Some companies even sell them in packs of two's.
DCT Tank: You will need an (possibly two if you're a dunce at times) Extra DCT Tank. Plastic, glass, polycarbonate will all work, BUT if you use glass you're going to need a wet drill, and I HIGHLY doubt most of you have one, so plastic, or poly will work easiest, and best.
3.5mm will work, but don't be surprised if you've got a "shorty" tank that is wider than deep, and it prevents you from doing this. I'd reccommend getting a 6ml tank as they'll work better because they're taller all the time - there's no guess work.
Drill: I would recommend a variable speed drill as they're less likely to punch through the tank's other side from spinning too fast when it finally breaks through. If you don't have one - there are ways to resolve this problem before it's possibility occurs. A small piece of steel, or wood can help prevent you from any "whoops" moments when drilling. Just slide them into the tank, and drill away. Alternatively if you have a few ball point pens that are metal, or plastic cram a few of their tubes into there, and that'll work just as well when they're packed tight enough.
As previously stated, if you're using a glass tank then you'll need a wet drill. Attempting to do a "dry drill" will just crack/break your glass, and kill your bit's head/threads.
Drill Bit: You'll need a bit that fits your specific thumb screw. I can't give you an exact size as due to the afformentioned they're various in width my 'x' mm (it's a manufacturing issue. They're SUPPOSED to all be the same, but sometimes they're not, so be prepared.
Scrap wood/steel/pen tubes, etc.: These are used to fill the tank to prevent "over drilling" when you break clean of the tank while making your hole.
Sharpie Marker, or something to make a notch/mark on the tube: Well, that pretty much explained it's purpose didn't it
Xacto Knife, Or Variable Speed Dremmel with coniferous sanding bit. (polishing bit could work too on poly tanks)
You'll be using this little guy to make sure that all the "nibs" on the tank created by drilling get removed, and smoothed out as not to affect tank sterility/sanitation.
Soap / Sterilizer: For soap I myself used Green Soap, and then did a few heavy rinses with distilled water, then ran the poly tank into the microwave sterilizer I use on my daughters bottles (hey, it may not be gas, but it works.)
You can alternatively use DAWN (hey, it gets REFINED OIL off DUCKS!) or something equally as strong such as GoJo (anyone in motors/construction knows what this is.)
As for sterilizing, you can use sterilizing hand soap, or a microwave sterilizer, or any other sterilization method needed.
**NOTE** If you use hand soap you WILL need to do a few more rinses in a "clean" area to make sure you get it off. Imagine smoking alcohol
)That's it. Now on to the Instructions.
Step 1. Put the top closure onto your tank (doesn't matter which "end" as either one can be top.) Mark where it ends, and a little bit past that point. Put your thumb screw up to it to make sure that WHERE you drill WILL give you enough clearance before the closure is in the tank. If you don't do this JUST right you'll be causing yourself a new tank, or shortening the one you have (or closing it in whatever fashion you can as it'll leak.
Step 2. Once marked begin preparations to stabilize your tank. There are SO many ways to do this it's RIDICULOUS so I didn't list this in the materials. I myself used some memory foam I had on hand, and folded it up, then stapled it together on the ends , and used it as a "pillow." Worked just fine for me, but you can use a clamp, your hands, or whatever you want/declare necessary.
Step 3. Remove the closure that you inserted for marking, and measure the bits you have to make sure that they're JUST (literally like a mm smaller) than the screw base for the thumb screw. NOT THE THREADING!! THE SCREW! This will ensure the threads go in nice, and snug, and close the hole well.
Step 4. Insert the drill bit that matches your screw into your drill, then insert your "overdrill prevention" method into your tank (if you decided to use one.) and get at it. Some would say to do this "level" whereas I myself think that it would be better at a "downward" angle as it'll make filling a little easier for long needles, fat tube heads, etc. (BTW - Get at it means "start drilling your hole.)
Step 5. When you finally "break" with the bit, make sure that you don't just yank it out. Set the drill to reverse, and "thread it out." by reversing the drill process. This keeps the drilled hole smooth, and prevents any extra cuts. Make sure you do this EXACTLY at the same level as you drilled in or your hole will get bigger than you intended.
Step 6. Try fitting your thumb screw in. NOTE** It WILL take quite a bit of pressure, but not enough to bend your tank to get the initial thread in. This is due to the fact of how tight we made the hole. If it seems too easy - guess what, you fudged, and used the wrong bit, or drilled extra when pulling out your bit. Grab another tank, and try again. Or test it, and see if it works (odds are it won't but hey, who knows.)
Step 7. If it works, then you're golden....almost. You now need to insert your cartomizer into the tank with the bottom closure on it. This will keep the cartomizer straight while you do this next part.
Step 8. Once the cartomizer is inserted, and level with the top of the tank (MAKE SURE IT"S LEVEL! ) compare the thumb screw by holding it's head base against the outside of the tank. Right now we're verifying that the thumb screw isn't too long! If it is, it'll move your carto and/or possibly damage it! IF it is, then take some good strong wire cutters, or a metal file, sander, whatever you have that'll do the job; and cut just a few mm off the "tip" of the screws threading. Then try it again. Repeat this until it's SLIGHTLY smaller than the tank to cartomizer radius. Once that's done move on.
Step 9. Insert top closure, and fill your tank with WATER! NOT LIQUID! We need to make sure it doesn't leak without wasting liquid don't we?!? If it leaks, then it's too wide, or your threading just isn't good enough, and isn't holding it in. You can either grab a new tank, and try again, or go to a loacal hardware store, and ask for a gasket small enough to fit around the thumb screw. (they should have one - just bring it with you, as most of them have NO clue what a thumb screw is. They'll think you're talking about a wing nut, and they are NOT the same.
Step 10. If you've passed step nine, and there's no leakage then it's time to prep for sterilization. Remove the water, and both top, and bottom closure. Check the inside of the tank, and outside too. Remove any "nibs" that are left from the drilling process, and CAREFULLY do so. You don't want to fudge your hole up now do you?
Step 11. Once the nibs are removed wash your tank using your soap. Use water that is as hot as you can tolerate bare handed. We need to get all the oil from your hands, and the dead skin/dust from your air out of this tank.
Step 12. Sterilize your tank. Use whatever method of sterilization you trust. (Remember, if you're using hand sanitizer you need to do a couple distilled rinses just to be safe.)
Step 13. Close your tank up, insert the carto, and then fill through your new "Quick Fill" hole. Plug it up with your thumb screw, and enjoy the new simplicity you've just created with your own two hands!
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm knowledgeable in every aspect of anything necessary here, so I can give more alternatives if necessary. I hope that you like this tutorial, and apologize for any lack of pictures/video. When my new tank gets here I'll be doing this to it, and will record a video of me doing so, or take pictures. Which ever. (pictures won't have my screaming baby in them, so that's the most likely one we'll have up here.
Congratulations, and GL!
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