Have you successfully rebuilt pro tank DUAL coils?

[ChelsB]

I am currently trying to rebuild pro tank dual coils. I am having a very hard time getting two of them in there. I am wondering if anyone has any pointers?
I was also wondering if it would be a good idea for me to twist the tails together so they stay in place?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!


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[opticruby]

I am currently trying to rebuild pro tank dual coils. I am having a very hard time getting two of them in there. I am wondering if anyone has any pointers?
I was also wondering if it would be a good idea for me to twist the tails together so they stay in place?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!


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I havent rebuilt a protank coil in a long long time but I always used to put a little twist in the legs before feeding them into the base as a pair.

Higher on the legs (closer to the coils), is best else it'll be really hard to get the metal positive pin in the bottom without mashing-up the silicone 'plug-type-thing'.

 

[Taowulf]

When i rebuilt them, i would position the coils then bend the outside legs to keep them in place while inserted the rubber piece.

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[BackDoc]

I'm not man enough it's not for the faint hearted! Best to you in attempting and succeeding my good woman!

 

[opticruby]

Btw I was rebuilding what is now known as the 'old' coils, not sure if you rebuilding the new ones.

The ones like this I was rebuilding.

 

[ChelsB]

Btw I was rebuilding what is now known as the 'old' coils, not sure if you rebuilding the new ones.

The ones like this I was rebuilding.View attachment 631663

Mine are the "old" ones too!


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[opticruby]

Mine are the "old" ones too!


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They really are the best to bebuild, AFAIK.

They can be tricky though, you have a lot of paitence, @ChelsB.

A little slight twist in the legs should hold the two coils stacked ready to drop in the base.

 

[wheelie]

Rebuilt 100's of them. I was using I believe 32 gauge K1 and 2mm coils. I would make my two coils then move them on to tattoo bars. I would keep the legs long. Insert one coil and bend over negative lead and wrap it once around the tattoo bar. Then lay a straitened out paper clip on top of the coil and wrap same lead around paper clip and bar together to secure. This will leave a fine space between the two coils. Then drop in the second coil and bend negative lead over and around the two tattoo bars and the paper cllip. Put in rubber gromit with the other two wires through the middle. Bend over wires and insert pin. I would then cut the two negative leads by the bars and carefully slide out the bars and paper clip. Then insert wicks and trim. Then trim the wires. If you get short or crazy reading, nine time out of ten it is a wire that is hanging out to far either under or over the gromit. Magnifine glass and a bright light work wonders. I used to always try to build them in the daytime which was much easier to see the wires by the window with a magnifine glass. Hope this helps a bit.

If you have the new style you have to get the cover off where the wicking holes are. . Paper clip will go through one side of the coil and out the other side. pull with plyers with the coil in the tank base. Sometimes they are on very tight.

Newest style are single coil verticals which are even easier to rebuild. Just don't lose the plastic oring which isolates the wires inside the coil.

Any troubles you are welcome to private message me if you like.

CHEERS!

 

[wheelie]

When i made my coils with 32 gauge they were nine wraps, I would use a pylers and lightly press them together under a torch to make them smaller and into mico coils That will tighten wraps together so they fit smaller and away from sides of coil. This is an important step..

If you need replacement rubbers or want to change the new style coils to old style like picture above Lighting Vapes sells the replacement pieces. Once you install good wires into coils you can just start removing wicks, soak them , dryburn and install new wicks. Dont have to change the wires everytime. CHEERS!

 

[ChelsB]

Rebuilt 100's of them. I was using I believe 32 gauge K1 and 2mm coils. I would make my two coils then move them on to tattoo bars. I would keep the legs long. Insert one coil and bend over negative lead and wrap it once around the tattoo bar. Then lay a straitened out paper clip on top of the coil and wrap same lead around paper clip and bar together to secure. This will leave a fine space between the two coils. Then drop in the second coil and bend negative lead over and around the two tattoo bars and the paper cllip. Put in rubber gromit with the other two wires through the middle. Bend over wires and insert pin. I would then cut the two negative leads by the bars and carefully slide out the bars and paper clip. Then insert wicks and trim. Then trim the wires. If you get short or crazy reading, nine time out of ten it is a wire that is hanging out to far either under or over the gromit. Magnifine glass and a bright light work wonders. I used to always try to build them in the daytime which was much easier to see the wires by the window with a magnifine glass. Hope this helps a bit.

If you have the new style you have to get the cover off where the wicking holes are. . Paper clip will go through one side of the coil and out the other side. pull with plyers with the coil in the tank base. Sometimes they are on very tight.

Newest style are single coil verticals which are even easier to rebuild. Just don't lose the plastic oring which isolates the wires inside the coil.

Any troubles you are welcome to private message me if you like.

CHEERS!

Thanks for the detailed explanation! What are tattoo bars?


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[wheelie]

Just strait bars that tattoo needles are mounted on to go on a tattoo gun. My son is a tattoo artist and they fit inside the coils perfectly. Small enough diameter to drop down into the wicking channels of the animiser body. I took off the needles and sanded the ends smooth so they did not snag the coils on the way in or out. Little drill bits would likely work if they would slide inside the coils also. Once you learn to do the Protank coils you will be able to rebuild almost any coil ever produced. all coils work on basically the same principle. UTube is your friend. CHEERS!

I found Rayon for wicking always worked best for the Protanks. Do not need the flavor wick they lay across the top of the upper coil.

 

[Continuity]

You're better off re-building the dual-coil Protank heads as single-coils IMO - there was no real benefit to the dual-coil heads, anyway - they just sucked more power (not a problem with modern mods) and were more unreliable as there was more to go wrong in them.

They pretty much all suffered from the failure mode where one coil would go on the fritz, and then the resistance would double for that head.

 

[wheelie]

With all due respect @Continuity I totally disagree. The duel coils have a long slot and to fill with wick. That long slot with a single wick would not fill the channel near as efficiently as a duel coil. Myself for 4 or 5 months and my wife for over 1 1/2 years using them coils never experienced a coil ever burning out and double resistance. Sold a lot of them coils in the store up until a month ago when they became unavailable and have never experienced failure of one coil and doubling resistance. With everything I think people go buy from China and expect clones to be as good as authentic and when things go wrong they scream foul and don't say they got the cheapies. I have bought coils from FastTech and lots of them, may different ones, but when they arrived they got rebuild without even being used first. You have any proof of that happening Continuty as I would like to broaden my knowledge base if that is fact? CHEERS!

 

[ChelsB]

You're better off re-building the dual-coil Protank heads as single-coils IMO - there was no real benefit to the dual-coil heads, anyway - they just sucked more power (not a problem with modern mods) and were more unreliable as there was more to go wrong in them.

They pretty much all suffered from the failure mode where one coil would go on the fritz, and then the resistance would double for that head.

I appreciate your response, but this is now a personal challenge for me. I WILL successfully rebuild PT dual coils [emoji4]


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[ChelsB]

With all due respect @Continuity I totally disagree. The duel coils have a long slot and to fill with wick. That long slot with a single wick would not fill the channel near as efficiently as a duel coil. Myself for 4 or 5 months and my wife for over 1 1/2 years using them coils never experienced a coil ever burning out and double resistance. Sold a lot of them coils in the store up until a month ago when they became unavailable and have never experienced failure of one coil and doubling resistance. With everything I think people go buy from China and expect clones to be as good as authentic and when things go wrong they scream foul and don't say they got the cheapies. I have bought coils from FastTech and lots of them, may different ones, but when they arrived they got rebuild without even being used first. You have any proof of that happening Continuty as I would like to broaden my knowledge base if that is fact? CHEERS!

Glad to hear it![emoji106]


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[Continuity]

I used to use them back in the day with my EVODs and ProTanks, and tried them when they first came out, and then also tried the 'newer' versions of them that used the solid 'shield' part with the pinholes in them.

I found that, quite often, but not always - their failure mode was just one of the coils popping, leaving the resistance of the whole head doubled in accordance with Ohm's Law.

I bought a few batches of each type of dual-coil style, both original KangerTech and clone, and then decided that I didn't see any real advantages to using them over the rebuilt single-coil heads, so never bought any more.

I still kept the heads so as to rebuild them as a did with all my heads, but gave up trying to dual-coil them, and made a few of them single coils, either with large looped elliptical coils or by using wick to pack the extra space IIRC.

 

[gandymarsh]

You could build oval coils. Some people use a zip tie. I build oval coils for the clone coils that came with my clone GS Air M/MS tanks from Fasttech. The slots are narrow and my standard mandrels wouldn't fit. I used 2 finish nails (with the heads cut off) glued together with superglue. I've seen a guy on Youtube use 2-1/16" drill bits clamped in a vise grips.

I found the video. Skip to about 8:45.

 

[ChelsB]

You could build oval coils. Some people use a zip tie. I build oval coils for the clone coils that came with my clone GS Air M/MS tanks from Fasttech. The slots are narrow and my standard mandrels wouldn't fit. I used 2 finish nails (with the heads cut off) glued together with superglue. I've seen a guy on Youtube use 2-1/16" drill bits clamped in a vise grips.

I found the video. Skip to about 8:45.

That's genius, thanks!

 

[Muru]

This guy makes it look really easy:


I would personally probably put a little strip of cotton between the two coils to separate them, and keep them there. But... I've never been (wo)man enough to try, so good luck!!

 

[ChelsB]

I was excited to get these for my PT rebuilding