Having trouble when trying to rebuild my ProTank coil...

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BigCloudz

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Hey guys, I am trying to rebuild my ProTank coil and man, I cannot get my resistance up high enough. I tried a 8 wrap of 30g kanthal around 3mm silica. The first reading was 1.4, but for some odd reason it drops to ~.8ohms after a few puffs.

I do not have anything smaller than my 30g/5mm ribbon and have tried with both. What am I doing wrong? It's hard to get much more than 8, maybe squeeze 10 wraps in that little space I have to work with...

Oh, trying to run this on my SVD and I do believe the lowest I can go is 1.4ohms.

Thanks guys
 

t8kiteasy

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Hey guys, I am trying to rebuild my ProTank coil and man, I cannot get my resistance up high enough. I tried a 8 wrap of 30g kanthal around 3mm silica. The first reading was 1.4, but for some odd reason it drops to ~.8ohms after a few puffs.

I do not have anything smaller than my 30g/5mm ribbon and have tried with both. What am I doing wrong? It's hard to get much more than 8, maybe squeeze 10 wraps in that little space I have to work with...

Oh, trying to run this on my SVD and I do believe the lowest I can go is 1.4ohms.

Thanks guys

If the res. is changing like that you have a short some where.Make sure when you pull the leads thru the bottom of the base,that you pull them snuggly one at a time when inserting the insulator in,then the post pin.Check the insulator to make sure it has not burned thru letting the wire hit the post pin.If you got it to 1.4,add one more coil to that build and squeeze the coils together.Not too tight just snuggly together so it fits in the center of the base cup.After you get the insulator and post pin in and the wires secured,check and adjust the coil as needed.
 

BigCloudz

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If the res. is changing like that you have a short some where.Make sure when you pull the leads thru the bottom of the base,that you pull them snuggly one at a time when inserting the insulator in,then the post pin.Check the insulator to make sure it has not burned thru letting the wire hit the post pin.If you got it to 1.4,add one more coil to that build and squeeze the coils together.Not too tight just snuggly together so it fits in the center of the base cup.After you get the insulator and post pin in and the wires secured,check and adjust the coil as needed.

Sounds good. From what I saw the first lead I pulled through, snipped and bent over stayed put. I then slid the insulator down, snipped the 2nd lead flush with the insulator, then slid the pin over (so that the 2nd lead went through the pin) the lead and that was that.


When you have the coil wrapped and in place, can the outter wraps of the coil contact the metal at all? It's hard to squeeze 10 wraps inside that little area, and even harder if they cannot be touching any metal. Thanks man
 

t8kiteasy

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Sounds good. From what I saw the first lead I pulled through, snipped and bent over stayed put. I then slid the insulator down, snipped the 2nd lead flush with the insulator, then slid the pin over (so that the 2nd lead went through the pin) the lead and that was that.


When you have the coil wrapped and in place, can the outter wraps of the coil contact the metal at all? It's hard to squeeze 10 wraps inside that little area, and even harder if they cannot be touching any metal. Thanks man

You can put a flavor wick over the top of the coil don't forget to do that.No,the edges of the coil inside the cup can NOT touch the base at all or it will short.If you squeeze the coil together you might be able to get it to fit.This is why i said when putting the leads thru,pull each wire,one at a time,as tightly down as possible,not to hard and snap the coil or lead though.The first lead pulled tightly down thru the insulator(make sure the insulator is set in place with the lead coming out the side)then snip the lead off.The second lead same,pull tightly down and push the post pin in,then snip the lead.
 

BigCloudz

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You can put a flavor wick over the top of the coil don't forget to do that.No,the edges of the coil inside the cup can NOT touch the base at all or it will short.If you squeeze the coil together you might be able to get it to fit.This is why i said when putting the leads thru,pull each wire,one at a time,as tightly down as possible,not to hard and snap the coil or lead though.The first lead pulled tightly down thru the insulator(make sure the insulator is set in place with the lead coming out the side)then snip the lead off.The second lead same,pull tightly down and push the post pin in,then snip the lead.

ill try this technique. You do think i'll be fine with the 30g at about 8 wraps though, yea?
 

t8kiteasy

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ill try this technique. You do think i'll be fine with the 30g at about 8 wraps though, yea?

You could be o.k.,yes.As long as everything is set in place firmly.

If it comes out at 1.4 and does not change like the first coil did,the res. of the coil is going to go up by .1 to .2 ohms as it gets broke in.That will put you at about 1.5-1.6 ohm coil and fine,once broke in that is.
 
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xtwosm0kesx

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You say you have some .5 x.1 ribbon kanthal?

Do 5 wraps on a piece of spaghetti (lol again) or something ~2mm in diameter, that should give ya a coil right around 1.4ohm, which until recently, i thought was a bit low to be putting ni a PT head, but the performance is pretty stellar and im not having heat problems like i was initially concerned with (yes, i know a few daring souls have sub-ohm PT heads, lol)
 

t8kiteasy

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You say you have some .5 x.1 ribbon kanthal?

Do 5 wraps on a piece of spaghetti (lol again) or something ~2mm in diameter, that should give ya a coil right around 1.4ohm, which until recently, i thought was a bit low to be putting ni a PT head, but the performance is pretty stellar and im not having heat problems like i was initially concerned with (yes, i know a few daring souls have sub-ohm PT heads, lol)

I run sub ohm in my EVOD's and the vape is awesome.
 

t8kiteasy

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I dont doubt it, ive run a PT head as low as 1.0ohm, but i'm just overly paranoid about getting too much heat with the coil sitting so close to that rubber grommet.

There is a secret for that,use non res. to res. wire.Takes the heat away from the gromet and back to the coil.
 

xtwosm0kesx

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There is a secret for that,use non res. to res. wire.Takes the heat away from the gromet and back to the coil.

Very true, im surprised more people dont mention that a lot (maybe all pt heads, come built with res/no res wire), but alas, if i'm gonna start messing with that, i might as well grab a Herc or an Ithaka clone and go all the way.
 

t8kiteasy

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Very true, im surprised more people dont mention that a lot (maybe all pt heads, come built with res/no res wire), but alas, if i'm gonna start messing with that, i might as well grab a Herc or an Ithaka clone and go all the way.

I have a Terminator-C so running non-res. to res. wire is almost second nature for me.
 

BigCloudz

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You say you have some .5 x.1 ribbon kanthal?

Do 5 wraps on a piece of spaghetti (lol again) or something ~2mm in diameter, that should give ya a coil right around 1.4ohm, which until recently, i thought was a bit low to be putting ni a PT head, but the performance is pretty stellar and im not having heat problems like i was initially concerned with (yes, i know a few daring souls have sub-ohm PT heads, lol)

3mm is the smallest I have... Yea I am perfectly fine with 1.4 on my PT/SVD, if fact I invite it! lol Maybe ill unravel the 3mm, pull a couple strands off then twist it back up and see what I can do. Thanks
 

xtwosm0kesx

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3mm is the smallest I have... Yea I am perfectly fine with 1.4 on my PT/SVD, if fact I invite it! lol Maybe ill unravel the 3mm, pull a couple strands off then twist it back up and see what I can do. Thanks

If your in a pinch, wrap the coil itself on a piece of spaghetti (1.9-2.1mm), then unravel your silica (i unravel my 3mm ekowool) and work as may strings in there as you can, or just go with a cotton main, even when using silica mains i still use cotton f-wicks.
 
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