I have been using my Hcigar Hammer Clone for a week now and I love it. The hammer fits great in my hand and give me a more natural feeling than what pens provide. However,I am disappointed with the firing button. I have read a lot of concerns about the spring and I understand that I will need to replace it soon. When I have the button screwed all the way in, the button doesn't fire with 18650 batteries. It does work with 18350 batteries though. Also, I am not able to lock the button. Am I missing the firing ring or something? Does anybody have any suggestion on upgrade buttons? I apologize for my ignorance. I have only been vaping for a short time and only have purchased a couple of mods.
Hcigar Hammer Clone Button
- Thread starter crozure
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Yeah, I've heard that flat-top batteries need a spacer with the Hammer mod. I've also heard that the additional rings/tube sections can be threaded either way, so you might want to try reversing it. The other option is to try it with a button-top battery (do this with an atomizer attached, so you can immediately tell if your device is auto-firing, which IS possible with the Hammer!)
Ultimately though, the Hammer isn't really a very reliable mod. It looks nice, and it's fun to use, but it's more a piece to look at than anything. It's a shame though, cause it's an impressive mod to use.
I posted link for video to fix the button in the link bellow and ECF's thread dedicated to Hammer clone.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/591910-hey-i-got-question-about-hcigar-hammer-mod-beginner.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/591910-hey-i-got-question-about-hcigar-hammer-mod-beginner.html
Thanks for the information. I'll order a button top and that should help with the contact on an 18650. I've read in the product description that the button locks but I don't see how it is possible unless I am missing something.
Can you explain some more? It would suck if this isn't reliable because I am looking for something in a pipe shapre. This is my 3rd mod in less than 2 months. Most of the review I've read were pretty solid on this mod.
I am running a hammer right now in fact. 
I am using the flat chi you top cap from FT and I have switched the place of the battery extension tube and the switch. I have replaced the M3 screw that came in the switch with a longer M3 brass screw, I silver plated it, but that's not necessary if you keep your contacts clean. You don't need to track down a M3 screw of exactly the right length, just cut and file a longer one. Look for a big thick head on the screw to get more contact area and durability. A lot of places sell them. You want to size the screw so that the screw comes into contact with the inner brass tube at the same time the part of the switch you press comes into contact with the locking ring section. You want the switch screw to be screwed all the way in so it's not loose.
I am still considering using the original top cap with a custom solid copper pin I hammered out of a piece of 101 copper rod, but I find the original top cap is a bit "grippy" and has gotten some of my atties stuck. I may try polishing it to a near mirror finish with some red rouge to see if that makes it non-sticky, but the chi you flat cap works just fine out of the box. I am using 18650 so I had to remove the second pin in the chi you cap, Or you can use the kick tube and another longer M3 screw to replace the second screw in the chi cap if you want to use a telescoping screw. There are several possible configurations for the hammer. Nothing that can't be done with a piece of sandpaper and some very inexpensive brass hardware screws.
Using these "custom" parts, I have never had a short circuit in my hammer mod. Or my other hammer mod. Just make sure everything is making good contact before you fire 'er up.
I am using the flat chi you top cap from FT and I have switched the place of the battery extension tube and the switch. I have replaced the M3 screw that came in the switch with a longer M3 brass screw, I silver plated it, but that's not necessary if you keep your contacts clean. You don't need to track down a M3 screw of exactly the right length, just cut and file a longer one. Look for a big thick head on the screw to get more contact area and durability. A lot of places sell them. You want to size the screw so that the screw comes into contact with the inner brass tube at the same time the part of the switch you press comes into contact with the locking ring section. You want the switch screw to be screwed all the way in so it's not loose.I am still considering using the original top cap with a custom solid copper pin I hammered out of a piece of 101 copper rod, but I find the original top cap is a bit "grippy" and has gotten some of my atties stuck. I may try polishing it to a near mirror finish with some red rouge to see if that makes it non-sticky, but the chi you flat cap works just fine out of the box. I am using 18650 so I had to remove the second pin in the chi you cap, Or you can use the kick tube and another longer M3 screw to replace the second screw in the chi cap if you want to use a telescoping screw. There are several possible configurations for the hammer. Nothing that can't be done with a piece of sandpaper and some very inexpensive brass hardware screws.
Using these "custom" parts, I have never had a short circuit in my hammer mod. Or my other hammer mod. Just make sure everything is making good contact before you fire 'er up.
I am running a hammer right now in fact.
I am still considering using the original top cap with a custom solid copper pin I hammered out of a piece of 101 copper rod, but I find the original top cap is a bit "grippy" and has gotten some of my atties stuck. I may try polishing it to a near mirror finish with some red rouge to see if that makes it non-sticky, but the chi you flat cap works just fine out of the box. I am using 18650 so I had to remove the second pin in the chi you cap, Or you can use the kick tube and another longer M3 screw to replace the second screw in the chi cap if you want to use a telescoping screw. There are several possible configurations for the hammer. Nothing that can't be done with a piece of sandpaper and some very inexpensive brass hardware screws.
Using these "custom" parts, I have never had a short circuit in my hammer mod. Or my other hammer mod. Just make sure everything is making good contact before you fire 'er up.
I hope OP reads this, because this is the explanation he was looking for.
I've just heard a lot of negative things about voltage drop, batteries not fitting properly, strange shorts/hot button issues (likely related to voltage drop).. Idk. I haven't seen really any good pipe-style mods, though I know they sort of exist. I'd just go with a more reliable unit over something that's aesthetically pleasing -- and keep in mind, I think the Hammer is sexy as all hell.
Idk, I'm sure you can fiddle with it enough to make it work. I'm just the type that if, at any point, I pick up a mod and it doesn't work (for any reason), I'm immediately and permanently turned off of that device. The less fiddling I have to do to make something work, the better.
Last edited:
I am running a hammer right now in fact.
I am still considering using the original top cap with a custom solid copper pin I hammered out of a piece of 101 copper rod, but I find the original top cap is a bit "grippy" and has gotten some of my atties stuck. I may try polishing it to a near mirror finish with some red rouge to see if that makes it non-sticky, but the chi you flat cap works just fine out of the box. I am using 18650 so I had to remove the second pin in the chi you cap, Or you can use the kick tube and another longer M3 screw to replace the second screw in the chi cap if you want to use a telescoping screw. There are several possible configurations for the hammer. Nothing that can't be done with a piece of sandpaper and some very inexpensive brass hardware screws.
Using these "custom" parts, I have never had a short circuit in my hammer mod. Or my other hammer mod. Just make sure everything is making good contact before you fire 'er up.
That's great. I've ordered my Chi You cap from FT. In the mean time, I'll look for a long brass screw from my local hardware store. Are you running a tobeco or hcigar hammer? Thanks for the advice.
Yeah, I've read similar reviews about the tobeco mod. After looking at a few more images and videos on the tobeco, it seems that the hcigar hammer clone is built much better. The battery compartment is solid stainless steel and the top cap is a solid piece too with no springs. I think the bottom button could be built a little bit better but from what I've read, it is far better than the tobeco.
- Status
Similar threads
