Help, bottom juicer problem.

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Poppa D

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I like dripping but not the mess of the drips, so I've been messing around with an idea that catches and holds the extra juice and reuses it again and again untill it is gone. I tend to just keep the juice full (saturated) and vape pretty happily. Ok this works very well so far, except for the battery life drops very fast.
The Rig is a Copper 6 volt using 2 cr2 3 volt batteries. I've been using this with a EM LR 510 for couple of days now with no problems and great vaping. Except the batteries die quick, less than an hour. The batteries and the PV get hot with high demand use as well.
Should I ditch the project or get some better batteries?
Sorry if this is an old subject, as I am new to the whole vaping subculture.
 
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LowThudd

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All the hot water in your house is supplied via copper pipe.

Correct, but the water temp is at most 180*f, where as a wet atty starts out at 200*f and only gets hotter from there. There is a very good reason for copper pots to be coated in tin. Copper easily tarnishes and gives of all kinds of nasty tastes and things. Nothing you'd want in your gut, definately nothing you want in your lungs.

Also, remember that the PV is exposed to oxygen=oxidation.
 

Poppa D

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Heres the idea in full description, so that you the reader can comment or use as you please.
Using a cartomizer "condom" cut the end off of it. Slide the remaining "sleeve" over your atty to the base, this should block all of your air and stop your draw. Slide an O ring under the bottom portion of said "sleeve" creating an air pocket between the atty and the "sleeve" position the air pocket at the top of the O ring over the air holes at the base of your atty, which now is a resavoir for juice. take another O ring or teflon, plastic tube and slide it down, verticle, from the top of the "sleeve" creating an "air wick" air passage to the atty draw holes. The "air wick" item used only creates a gap in the seal at the top created by the "condom" "sleeve" that air can pass through, leaving most of the top sealed.
I use this with a Drip tip and drop 5 or more drops at a time, that tend to last for quite a while.
 
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asdaq

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What if you just use the sleeve portion, but positioned so it is below the air holes to form a juice cup? I've done this with the cartridge condom and they even had a beveled top edge which flares and catches more juice.

The way you describe it it seems that every time you vape it would take up this juice in the reservoir each time to get air and could flood the atty easier.

Just some ideas of course :?:
 

WillyB

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The Rig is a Copper 6 volt using 2 cr2 3 volt batteries. I've been using this with a EM LR 510 for couple of days now with no problems and great vaping. Except the batteries die quick, less than an hour. The batteries and the PV get hot with high demand use as well.

Should I ditch the project or get some better batteries?
Sorry if this is an old subject, as I am new to the whole vaping subculture.
Well the Copper can only use CR2's so that is not an option. You'll need a new mod. Using a LR atty and a pair of CR2's (800mAh in series) @ 6+V means over a 4A current draw. Pretty extreme. I'm surprised those EM atties can take that sort of voltage. Seems a mod with a pair of 18650's (2400mAh) might do it, but on their own the voltage is too high, 7.2V.
 

Poppa D

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What if you just use the sleeve portion, but positioned so it is below the air holes to form a juice cup? I've done this with the cartridge condom and they even had a beveled top edge which flares and catches more juice.

The way you describe it it seems that every time you vape it would take up this juice in the reservoir each time to get air and could flood the atty easier.

Just some ideas of course :?:
That is the idea, that I am describing. Yes depending on how muchof the atty is covered with the sleeve determines how flooded the atty gets. Each time it is drawn on it resupplies the atty with juice.
 

Poppa D

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Well the Copper can only use CR2's so that is not an option. You'll need a new mod. Using a LR atty and a pair of CR2's (800mAh in series) @ 6+V means over a 4A current draw. Pretty extreme. I'm surprised those EM atties can take that sort of voltage. Seems a mod with a pair of 18650's (2400mAh) might do it, but on their own the voltage is too high, 7.2V.
I have ordered another mod that uses cr123 bats. It is the Buzz, but again I dont know if it will be able to take the draw on the circuits or the batteries. I think that mod has a 2 amp draw protection, hmmm.
The idea works either way, with any atty as long as there is space at the battery connection for O rings, and no air or liquid can pass through that connection.
I'll have to use standard 510 atty's.
Thanks for the info.
 

WillyB

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I have ordered another mod that uses cr123 bats. It is the Buzz, but again I dont know if it will be able to take the draw on the circuits or the batteries. I think that mod has a 2 amp draw protection, hmmm.
The idea works either way, with any atty as long as there is space at the battery connection for O rings, and no air or liquid can pass through that connection.
I'll have to use standard 510 atty's.
Thanks for the info.
I wondered about that 2A protection. A standard Joye 510 @ 2A = 4.4V and 8.8 watts. A LR 1.5Ω atty on a single 18650 produces 9.6 watts.
 

WillyB

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No heat with the standard 510 atty, as you suggested. So what would be the correct batteries to use with a LR 510 at 6 volts or higher? I assume the that the flooded atty keeps it from popping. It is quite nice vaping, very intense.
I guess. :laugh:

Figure eGo users are at about 4.6W, but you want 24W.

I don't think it's really feasible. Your best bet would be to build a two 18650 mod with a 5V 5A regulator and be happy with that. A 3A TI UCC383T-5 well heat sinked may work (you'll be pulling about 3.4A). That would give you about 17 watts. About double my sweet spot.

Starting with something like the Tekkeon MP1800, with it's charging capabilities, would allow you to keep it charged while using it at home or in your truck.
 
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