HELP! - KAYFUN LITE PLUS - 0.0 ohms!!

[Vapires]

Hello,

Been a good day today and limited only by my coil building - first proper attempt yesterday on the kayfun Lite Plus and my new Provari

Perfect in theory - but just like several football teams theory only counts for so much!

I'm sure just like my coils it's my lack of experience

Basically on Provari it reads as Lo...I have tried it on my VTR and MVP as well both showing 0.00 as well. nautilus and Aerotank Meha work

So it is the Kayfun??

What should I do???

Here I was having big dreams about a bag of organic cotton!

Thanks

 

[mattjjang]

Hrm, check and make sure there aren't any shorts. The common practices are to check that the coil isn't touching the deck, specifically the airflow tube and make sure the tails of the coil wrapped around your screws aren't touching the chimney or basically anything else. Also, not usually a common problem but make sure the coil isn't touching any part of the chimney either. Another place to check maybe is the 510 connector, but that usually isn't a problem across multiple devices.

 

[soulcatcher]

First I would inspect the deck and make sure that the positive 'block' hasn't rotated and made contact with the negative 'block'. If the positive pin is loose then the positive block can spin and make contact w/ the negative side. Just make sure there is a gap between the two. If it is loose then tighten the positive pin in the 510 connection w/ a flathead.

It's also a good idea to lift the coil up a bit once secured to the posts so it isn't resting on the deck.

Also, what are the specs of the coil you have built (ga, wraps, diameter). I know for instance that my SVD will only read ohms down to .5; if I go any lower it will simply read 0.0 ohms.

 

[Shootist]

Not Kayfun. They really can't go wrong unless you took it apart and didn't reassemble it correctly. And the only way to reassemble it wrong is to either leave out one of the positive connection delrin washers/insulators or twisted the top block so it touches the negative post.

It is more than likely you haven't lifted up the coil far enough so the wire coming from the negative post doesn't touch any part of the positive block or the center screw that holds it in place except at the wire mounting screw, and that is After the coil wrap.

Need to know what gauge Kanthal wire and how many wraps around what size mandrel.

 

[Completely Average]

This picture shows two potential shorts....

1. The coil is touching the deck.
2. The tail of the wire that extends beyond the screw is long enough to contact the chimney.

A third common short is to have that tail wrap around the screw and bridge the gap to the deck.

This is a similar coil done correctly...

The coil is above the deck, the tails do no extend out towards the chimney, nor do they bridge the gap between the post and deck.

 

[FlatKo]

Happened to me, whenI first got the kayfun lite plus: my first build worked flawlessly for a week till I thought the flathead screw at the bottom meant an adjustable pin and I unscrewed it a bit...
result: the block in the chamber rotated and I got a short ;-)

 

[Shootist]

This picture shows two potential shorts....

1. The coil is touching the deck.
2. The tail of the wire that extends beyond the screw is long enough to contact the chimney.

A third common short is to have that tail wrap around the screw and bridge the gap to the deck.

This is a similar coil done correctly...

The coil is above the deck, the tails do no extend out towards the chimney, nor do they bridge the gap between the post and deck.

Actually neither of the 2 things you mention are a short.
The chimney, the complete base and the body of the tank that are metal are all the Negative connection.
The end of coil that is touching the positive block and screw is on the other side from the negative end. That is not a short but it might lower the resistance by a slight amount.

Now if the positive lead from the coil is long enough to touch the chimney after wrapping around the positive connection point that will cause, and is, a short.

 

[Vapires]

Not Kayfun. They really can't go wrong unless you took it apart and didn't reassemble it correctly. And the only way to reassemble it wrong is to either leave out one of the positive connection delrin washers/insulators or twisted the top block so it touches the negative post.

It is more than likely you haven't lifted up the coil far enough so the wire coming from the negative post doesn't touch any part of the positive block or the center screw that holds it in place except at the wire mounting screw, and that is After the coil wrap.

Need to know what gauge Kanthal wire and how many wraps around what size mandrel.

Thank you - Everybody!

I should have mentioned bfore - 0.25 kanthal and 2mm ekowool and it HAS been working all day apart from recently - I used cloud9 tutorial and got a 'decent vape' most of the day lacking taste sometimes though

I am checking these things now that you guys have mentioned

One thing can I actually 'take out' my connection bit where the coil is - won't it leak?

*** editing this post as I just opened it up:



Juice went straight out the mouthpiece! i've taken the soaked coil out as well

1) Is the rectangle bit that's now diagonal the 'positive block' + you guys have been referring to?

2) How do I get that bit 'straight' again if that is indeed the prolem

3) Apart from re-wicking (is this ok?) can I put it back together because its obviously greasy or do I need to another COMPLETE CLEAN AND DRY??

4) How can I in future 'safely' take the coil out and sort problems/re-wick/ etc. without the whole thing collapsing?

5) what other problems or future issues should I be mindful of ???

You guys are LIFESAVERS - LITERALLY!! ....NEARLY my first day without an analog, I want this working so I can have a day under my belt

Thanks

 

[danca90]

The build might also be too low to fire. Post a picture of the build, and we can help a whole lot more.

 

[Shootist]

Thank you - Everybody!

I should have mentioned bfore - 0.25 kanthal and 2mm ekowool

I am checking these things now

One thing can I actually 'take out' my connection bit where the coil is - won't it leak?

What is 0.25 Kanthal? Did you mean 25 Gauge? There isn't any at that gauge. And if that is Inches that's 1 quart of an inch.


What GAUGE is the Kanthal you used (It comes 34, 33, 32, 30, 29, 28, 27, 26, 24, 22, 20 and 16 gauge) and how many wraps did you make around what size mandrel, drill/needle/whatever?

Yes you can to clean it but you have to put it back in. You can't take it out and leave it out.

 

[texanator]

1) Yes (and because it is diagonal, it is touching the negative post and shorting out)
2) fingers, pliers. if it rotates easily, tighten the screw on the bottom of the base (turn it upside down)
3) wipe excess juice with a paper towel. re-assemble.
4) wape till your tank is empty or near empty. or only remove the top cap of the tank and pour the liquid out.
5) too many, ymmw.

 

[texanator]

What is 0.25 Kanthal? Did you mean 25 Gauge?

OP's location is London, so metric 0.25mm, which is probably 30Gauge.

 

[Shootist]

Thank you - Everybody!

I should have mentioned bfore - 0.25 kanthal and 2mm ekowool and it HAS been working all day apart from recently - I used cloud9 tutorial and got a 'decent vape' most of the day lacking taste sometimes though

I am checking these things now that you guys have mentioned

One thing can I actually 'take out' my connection bit where the coil is - won't it leak?

*** editing this post as I just opened it up:

View attachment 349478

Juice went straight out the mouthpiece! i've taken the soaked coil out as well

1) Is the rectangle bit that's now diagonal the 'positive block' + you guys have been referring to?

2) How do I get that bit 'straight' again if that is indeed the prolem

3) Apart from re-wicking (is this ok?) can I put it back together because its obviously greasy or do I need to another COMPLETE CLEAN AND DRY??

4) How can I in future 'safely' take the coil out and sort problems/re-wick/ etc. without the whole thing collapsing?

5) what other problems or future issues should I be mindful of ???

You guys are LIFESAVERS - LITERALLY!! ....NEARLY my first day without an analog, I want this working so I can have a day under my belt

Thanks

That image shows the positive block touching the negative post. Take a pair of pliers and move it back so it is on top of the insulating piece. Tighten the center screw from the bottom.

1) Yes

2) Pliers and then tighten the center screw from the bottom.

3) e-juice tends to be slick. Wash the complete thing out with warm to HOT water. I usually take new Kayfun's completely apart and wash them in soap and warm to just under HOT HOT water.

4) Once the center post and positive block are tight they will not come loose. You remove and or install the coil using the 2 outside screws. Those are where the leads from the coil go and get tightened down.

5) None. Once the center block is straight and tightened properly, NOT OVER TIGHTENED, you will never have any problems with your Kayfun. The only other problem you may have is with the wick. To much or to little wick material or to long or to short of wick tails. To long and it can restrict the flow of juice to the coil. To short of tails and it won't pick up the juice from the juice channels.

 

[Vapires]

This is the wire used, i got it from cloud9: Kanthal A1 Wire 0.25mm - 10m reel (probably 25 gauge)

I've taken the build off when I opened it up - but it Was working relatively throughout the day

Another picture here is off the top part of the thread where the coil sits - I think you guys were right the positive block has moved



I'm hoping to do another wick maybe with cotton - just boiled some and going to let it dry

Might as well give the Kayfun a clean

 

[Shootist]

Yup that is the short. Straighten that block out and tighten from the bottom.
No need to boil the cotton.